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Kawasaki hasn’t had US distributors since 2002, so it’s been a while. 😉

FYI, the phone number for the Engines Division, customer service is 877-364-6404. For most issues you will be referred to your local Kawasaki Engines dealer. You’re welcome to try the number Rivets provided. If you get what you need, great!

The FR651VAS11 is at the same website. For rebuild parts, rings, gaskets, seals, they would be the same for both engines.

https://www.kawasakienginesusa.com/parts-and-support/parts-lookupa7eb.html?aribrand=KWE# Simply type in your engine model.

15004-0985 is what is on this engine. The current replacement part number for Kawasaki is 15004-1063. The phone number listed above will not be able to help with this information. This is for the Powersports group.

15004-0985 is the number.

The part number can be found on the carburetor body. You will see a number like ‘40826’. Kawasaki’s part number would be 150040826. As far as a illustrated parts manual, you can use a FR691V-AS32 for example. It is the S32 that is important, not the A, in this case. Big Dog and Hustler are...

I was just trying to answer the question and look where that went. If I would have posted best practice, someone else would have posted something else. Like LawnWizard wrote…”a simple question”… Sorry LawnWizard, didn’t mean to offend, like I started off by commenting originally. I don’t know...

You're the one that started your post with "Please forgive me if this is a stupid or redundant post". Sorry that you are now butthurt.

Didn't write anything about installing pistons from inside the crankcase. You can remove the head, pull the rod/piston down far enough to disconnect the piston from the rod. Push the piston back up and out through the top (head) side. Install new rings and install back into the cylinder as...

Sometimes, you can unbolt the rod and pull it back enough to remove the wrist pin and then push the piston up the cylinder and out the top. I might only do this if I was replacing a piston on one cylinder only. If I am doing both, I would also remove the crankshaft.

You cannot re-ring without removing the pistons from the cylinder. No offense but if you don’t know this, you probably don’t want to attempt on your own.

Sounds like a wore out or out of adjustment PTO clutch.

Power to the solenoid on the float bowl? Hear or feel a click when ley is turned on?

They are a beast of an engine when that Nikki fuel system is cooperating. Diagnostics on that throttle body can be a bear. Not worth the money to replace it.

FXT DFI, boat anchor. 😄

It’s not an FX850V. But if it were, this info is correct @StarTech.

To check the stator you need to test the AC voltage output. Unplug the stator from the harness, put your DVOM on the AC scale. One lead on one side of the plug and the other lead on the other side of the plug. Run the engine at high idle. You should see above 26 volts AC. If so, the stator is fine.

The bolt pattern would be the same for both. As far as crankshaft, there is a good chance they would be the same (1” x 80mm) is standard. But of course you would have to confirm. OHV is better than the flat-head. Both models were very reliable.

You’re likely correct. Line is not on the carb of course, but someone could make that mistake.

Is the engine FR600V_S15? ( the _ being A, B, etc) Has the carburetor been replaced? There is no such line above the fuel line on an OE carburetor. I’d like to see a picture.

Assuming it is electric start, is there power to the solenoid on the bottom for the fuel bowl? Can you hear or feel it click? Not sure what you are referring to with the comment about the air out a pinhole in the carburetor. There is no line going back to the tank from the carburetor.

You wrote that you had spark and fuel present. There is still the low compression issue. You would need to identify why. Do a leak down test is where I would begin. Or, replace this engine with an FS481VGS01S, 14hp two cylinder if you don’t want to buy a new mower. The FB460V was a great engine...

Note the 24 ft-lb is for new bolts. If reusing bolts, 18 ft-lbs.

Those China carburetors are cheap for a reason. What is the model code of this engine? Also, minimum compression is 55 psi. So, you are too low.

It will be the FD731V_S00 spec for Ferris. Doesn’t matter whether it is AS00, BS00, etc. It is not the only liquid cooled engine ever made. It is the latest of the vertical shaft models built. Now discontinued. Kawasaki still has three liquid cooled, horizontal shaft models in production.

When I think of "huge amounts of water", it would be from rain or pressure washing for example. Then engine can form condensation from short runs where the engine doesnt get to operating temp. But its not making huge amounts of water.

Crankcase or muffler is full of water.

Is the backfire out the intake or exhaust? How many hours?

That is within spec.

I respect that. Lets back up. You confirmed earlier that the engine will run on either cylinder. Is this only with starting fluid? Do you have a fuel pressure gauge?

It doesn't take a lot to work the pump. Probably only around 1 psi.

The BS21 is carbureted. I guess I jumped the gun assuming that this question was DFI related as a carbueted pulse pump would be rather easy to diagnose. My apologies, Tim. If this is a carbureted engine, the diaphragm works from positive and negative crankcase pressure created by piston...

This engine has two fuel pumps. A diaphragm pump, which creates the fuel lift and flow. This acts as a helper to the electric fuel pump. The electric pump does not have enough suction power to pull from the tank itself. But, it does provided the necessary fuel pressure to the throttle body. So...

Seriously. We don't know your capabilities. As @StarTech wrote, you are missing something or something isn't as you are reporting. What do you have for fuel pressure?

You wrote "tested injectors they work" !? Sorry, I recommend that you take this mower in to a professional. Good luck.

Try fresh fuel.

@cableguy52 , is the malfunction indicator light flashing? By stating that the injectors work, how was this confirmed?

You wrote "injectors not firing". If it will start and run on either, then I'm missing what the issue is.

No speed sensor. Injectors are controlled thru the ground circuit of the ignition coils. Check for continuity of the ground wires to the coils and good connection at the coils. Check the connector at the control unit mounted on the radiator. Make sure there isn't any corrosion or damaged pins.

First, 3600 is not WOT. The only time a governed engine is at WOT is when it is at full load. With the throttle is at the rabbit, is high idle, not WOT. Second, it is normal to have to choke the engine on restart. When the key is turned off, the fuel solenoid prevents any more fuel from being...

They are likely not OE parts. Good luck with them.

Ignition coil. Disconnect the ground wire from the coils and then pull one plug wire. If engine still runs, replace that coil. If it quits, its the other.

You are correct. You will not likely get the parts out with a magnet. I'm not even sure you would be able to see with a borescope, but it would be worth a try. I highly doubt both pushrods would go into the crankcase. Please update when you find out.

I've seen one wrap itself around the camshaft. Not likely getting it out without pulling the crankcase cover. If the pushrods did go in. Borescope?

It is possible to drop a pushrod due to incorrect adjustment, and it could go down the windage hole and into the crankcase. I don't see how both pushrods would do this.

It does look lean in the picture, yes.

The BPR4 is correct. But, pf course would have nothing to do with compression. Valve lash is good at .004". What were the compression numbers?

Highly recommend you keep using that fuel. Typically the low power is from an issue with a cylinder. Like, an ignition coil. Running poor, then better may be a fuel quality issue. Low power, coil or valve lash possibly. Good luck.

There is no "should be". 80 to 100 is good compression. The minimum for this engine is 64psi. 100 is more normal. You might check valve lash it could bring the 80 up a little. Check this first and retest before tearing anything apart. I would also run some Seafoam in the fuel for several hours...