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Whatever 303 is don't put anything on the belt. You may have matched a Thinner (Width) belt for the new one which rides higher (Tighter) in the Pulleys. Find the original part number and dimensions and go from there with the Kevlar Pricy belt.

Carefully clean ALL battery and Solenoid cable connections. Very carefully -with cap ON fuel tank- connect one booster cable to Positive on Battery and touch big connector on Starter Motor with the other end of same cable. There will be sparks. If it cranks, you may need a new Solenoid or...

Be sure to turn off the blades or push the button when reversing.

I have some "plumbers tape" 'All Round' that has multiple holes punched in it. Cut a length with 2 holes. Fold it tightly over the black area of the cable with holes aligning. Squeeze tight with pliers. Drill a small hole in the handle and fasten with a metal screw and washer to hold the...

I bought a seat for a Skid Steer or similar item with armrests. Seat Travel is the key. I had to chain it halfway down but now I have 3-5" of travel. These seats can be adjusted to your weight. Google Suspension Seats for farm use and see what you get. I had to fabricate a mounting plate so I...

Sounds Legit!

RTFM. The Manual should give you storage Instructions. Check with Dealer. I suggets storing the battery fully charged and check voltage every month.

Make sure the leaves are very dry before you start.

Sounds like a Lean Condition to me. Remove and deep clean the carb and add NEW fuel.

I have a big 6" vise in which I put a 3/4" long pin standing vertically. After beads are broken I slip the wheel over the pin and use Vise~Grips to keep the bead from following the tool. This has worked for small tires I have encountered. Use liquid soap for bead lube.

I suggest you try Astro-Turf.

If you have NO compression reading after quickly turning over the engine, either the Rings are totally gone or valves are not closing or you have a blown head gasket.

25% grade is quite steep. You should try one out on wet grass to be sure you can climb it with the new model.

It sounds like the compression release mechanism. Have a Load Test done on your fully charged Battery. Don't jump it from a running vehicle. Set valves Cold at the correct TDC. Check Manual for lash/gap.

If you still have it, raise the cutting height and be sure you have equal air pressure in rear tires.

If the correct belt (length and width) is on the idlers and other pulleys it is unlikely that it is slipping unless your pedal needs adjusting. Be sure the fan is the same Pulley size as original Hopefully you will not require a new Tranny. I did !

With a 2" wide long handled scraper, give it a scrape after every couple mowings. At the end of the season, turn it upside down, remove blades for sharpening and using the used oil you just drained out lather it on the underside and let sit over night on a gravel area. Check Belt and spindles...

Try cutting your grass shorter every time.

You have hit something very solid. Replace entire Spindle and the 3 Blades and Deck Belt Check other 2 spindles for looseness. Walk your area and find out what you hit. Something very solid.

Great photo. The JD grease fittings fill an empty void. Bearings top and bottom are sealed. Don't bother greasing them.

Aliens. leave a couple fired 12 ga. shells around the deck...........

You should have immediately completely drained Fuel tank and lines and Float bowl. Replaced Fuel Filter.. Replace Spark Plug. Refill with a gallon of Fresh Gasoline. Bought flowers for Wifey. She owes you now. The diesel would not have harmed anything in the Carb.. Strange the head gasket...

Clean and follow EVERY wire looking for chafed or shorting areas.

Double check that the Flywheel Key is not partially sheared on Crankshaft.

If you are sure that gasoline is getting into the Crankcase, perhaps someone put it in accidentally. Look for another problem although it seems you have carefully checked them all. 30 Std oil.

Yup, could be the Spark Plug.........

StarTech has it correct. Note: ACR has nothing to do with oil. Reset the valves cold @ 0.006" (6 thou.) then do the ACR test.

Perhaps you are trying to cut 60"! Make sure the grass is dry and not too long. Deck (gage) wheels may be set too low.

That is normal and the shiny area is where the cuttings along with dirt etc hit after the cut is made. Eventually it will actually wear through that area. Blades were correctly installed.

Make sure Switch is ON if it has one. You should be able to see gas moving in the lines when you push the primer. If it does not start on Ether, then it is an electrical problem

Blades look normal to me. I never mulch or aerate. Perhaps try cutting a notch lower and increase RPM and ground speed.

Use a Dial Indicator and mark High Side. A piece of pipe over the end of the protected shaft and lean on it. Check runout often and remember 'spring back'. Replace the seal if you get it 'good enough'.

Be sure you have the correct belt. Thicker belts need to be somewhat longer as they ride higher in the pulleys. Check spindles and idlers for signs of seizing up.

I have had many of the cheaper models of J.D. lawn tractors. I inherited an X320 with Kawasaki engine, 48" and the cut is far above the 100 series. Totally different deck hanging assembly. New trans at 280 hrs!!!!

Yardmaster and possibly other engines have a small screen behind the 90° elbow that feeds fuel to the carb. PULL out that fitting and check. If there is a tiny screen, blow it clean and hopefully out from Needle side. In any event get/leave that screen out and put a serious filter on the fuel...

If it is Brass, get a new fitting and solder it on.

You can get a small solid state item that can be wired in without fly wheel removal. Had it done on old Rototiller. It replaces the points.

If it is the spindles you are greasing from the side, the grease does nothing but fill a void. If the grease nipple is on top, it likely unscrews when it hits the frame when deck is raised.

ACDC huh?

I always put on the Shrink Sleeve FIRST! Usually Crimp/Solder then cover with Permatex Aircraft Gasket cement, allow to dry and then shrink on Insulation sleeve after trimming any burnt wire insulation. There are many ways to do this.

It appears to be the Stud that holds on the Electric Clutch to me. There should also be a key. Have you checked rear axle/wheel bolts, the centre one, some with keys? Idler pulley may be missing a stud.

What OldDiyer said!

Remove and clean the Spark Plug. Spray it with Brake or Carb cleaner. Let dry and reinstall. Spray a bit of 'Quick Start' into the Air Breather with Choke OPEN and pull several times. Then try with choke on slightly.

Remove and check carb float for free fall then remove and clean jets. One at a time.

First try lubricating the Bendix (spring return) drive. Grooves in shaft. . When you try to start, the gear should spin out to the end and starter rotate freely. Release the key and the bendix spring should return it to park.

Put in a known fully charged Battery and try it. Then look for clean battery and starter connections. Then look for loose terminal block near Key.

Check to see if you have not pinched off a fuel line during repairs and that you do have fuel. After leaving it sit for 20 min, give it a shot of Quick Start and pull the rope, choke mostly open.

I have an X320 and I love the way it cuts. 4" is way too high for me in Southern ON. I have it set so the bogey wheels barely touch/rotate. You might look and under deck adjustments to Deck Hangers.

Take your meds.

I stuff small chicken wire around the Fan shroud so they cannot get in.