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You need to remove the Flywheel to properly check the key. Perhaps you just looked at it.

Be sure that you are not pulling back too much on the inside wheel steering arm. I have watched people actually reversing the inside wheel, tearing up turf.

Yes.

Check all electrical connections. You may need to replace Wife.

Quite possibly it needs a Carb Gasket kit. Is the fuel tank beneath the carb?

Remove the Gas Cap and cover opening with a cloth and elastic band. Could be a tank venting issue.

Possibly it is a tank vent or used to scour the VOS from the tank. Epoxy it

There is a rectangular connector very near the Ignition switch. Press safety latch and pull apart. Check for green crustys and spray with Zep Battery Care. REPLACE that fuse even though it looked good. A battery can check for 12VDC but have no Amps. Rare but it happens. Possibly your...

I clean off obvious dirt and make 2 or 3 passes against my coarse Grinding Wheel. Same # for other end and blades. It's not the Space Shuttle as Tarryl would say. A gram or 2 out of balance is no big deal. Tighten carefully after engaging any drive teeth, sharp side Down. Done. Skip OCD.

It would appear that you have a Failure of the Automatic Compression Release (ACR) mechanism. Simply put, it releases some compression during startup. The only cure is to replace the Camshaft to which this is attached to. First, be sure you can obtain a new one From B&S. Aftermarket ones can...

I hope you changed out the Fuel Filter.

The wires on a Wire Brush work well for poking through these holes. Some jets on the bottom of the float bowl have a very tiny hold on an angle in the threads.

The tumblers in the lock are in no way part of the electrical portion of the switch. It lubricates without attracting dirt.

What Bert said! Not for the newbie or faint of heart! Hook the safety switches back up. Try it with a shot of starting fluid just for giggles. Put all the wiring back the way you found it. Double check that.

Have you tried spraying WD40 into the switch or powdered graphite?

Get used to it. Don't cut wet grass. Don't Mulch if you do. It is a normal event. You could try cutting hardwood blocks to suit and use a countersunk through bolt to hold them in the crotch.

I suspect that the muffler is saturated with oil and it will take some time to burn off.

Like Battery powered Drills, electric mowers will be good for 3/4 of your lawn.

Time to retire and stop the BS. This forum is to help, not berate others.

Well said spf750. The cat must have peeed in Rivets Corn Flakes. I am glad you got the problem sorted out and apologise for the mistreatment you received in this Forum. Everyone here is an expert. Some more than others.

The owner indicated he had problems getting it started. With Electric start and new starting components it should be able to Crank, then Start.

My Battery powered Makita Drills are always good for 0-1/2 Holes. No thanks. Batteries cost more than a Drill! NFG.

Try it both ways. If it still does not disengage (possible but doubtful decal is wrong) RTFM and if that does not describe the problem just run it!

A failed ACR (Automatic Compression Release) should not prevent it from Starting. It only assists starting by lowering the compression for Manual start. Set the valves 0.005" or as close as possible and try it. If that fails, I would recommend changing the Plugs and then the Coil.

Use it until it no longer starts your tractor and them purchase a new one of equal or higher CCA. Clean ALL battery cable terminations.

NEVER buy the first production year of anything. Who mows lawn at 7mph? Yup, these will mow 1/2 of what you would expect. Just like battery powered drills.

Never buy the first Production Year of Anything. Especially battery powered. I have a box full of B&D and Makita battery powered tools you can have. Drills always good for 1-1/2 holes!

You should have some idea of correct speed. Run it at 3/4 throttle. Be sure to check/change the oil. If you do get parts since that bolt was threaded into the shaft hole, you will likely have an oil leak there. Get a tach for small engines. Don't die rich.

Be very careful using Methanol in modern engines. It attacks certain types of Plastics and seized a fuel shut off valve on my Yamaha 80. Fortunately I can buy Ethanol free Premium Shell locally for my XLR. I simply drain and run dry seasonal equipment. Done.

0.004-6" per inch of bore for ring gap. Check crankcase for fuel contamination of the Oil

What He said. Cylinder(s) may be full of gasoline. Stuck needle valve.

Buy one from a dealer, but I seems you have a lot more problems. Remove gas cap and in an open area blow back the gas line from NEW filter. Blow Carb line back to pump. Be sure the shutoff solenoid is operating and staying open with key on. Check Float bowl for fuel. Remove Needle. Fuel...

Head Gaskets have nothing to do with Oil Consumption.

The fuel shut off solenoid may take some vibration to open. You should be able to hear it click. Butt gap is usually 0.004" per inch of bore. If rings were 2/3 of the old ones you have the wrong rings.

An engine with only 140 hours should not need overhauling. Check auto fuel shutoff solenoid if it has one.

I suggest just Change to a new plug and be sure the coil wire is producing a bright spark when plugged in and grounded. Be sure the fuel valve is turned ON. Try Starting Fluid. If it starts, you have Ignition now you need Fuel. Needle valve or electric fuel shutoff may be stuck or...

Price the John Deere Green rattle can lately? Not the Space Shuttle!

You could buy some chain and hammer links to make the first ones fit or shorten the new ones. Not rocket science.

Perhaps a little 'slower' if other factors are the same!

If you are mowing your hills sideways, chains will make your machine skid down hill. Lower air pressure and use as directed may help.

Very well thought out Sir. I have done the same with psi.

I don't know what a 350777 is but if it has an electric solenoid fuel shut off, be sure it is working. You should be able to hear it click when you turn ignition to ON. Check the multiwire connector(s) near the switch. Disconnect and clean them with Electronic cleaner and put back together...

I suspected valve/cam gear timing. Since you have solved that, check the Flywheel Key to be sure it is not partially sheared. A worn cam lobe would close valve(s) quicker so I doubt your new cam is at fault. Re set the valves per spec and check coil positioning. Perhaps you are running it too...

After checking Choke setting, replace spark plugs. Use fresh fuel.

I have a 3 ring binder with 13 sections by B&S. It is in great detail with lots of photos, schematics, tools etc. MS-4750-101 is on each section. I also have one for Tecumseh.

Have you tried contacting MTD? Do you have a warranty claim? Don't worry about it.

With a common pliers, grasp hose over the Filter nipple and while holding the filter work it back and forth. Hot water may help. Perhaps put a little lube on the Filter when reinstalling. Do not use heat gun or open flame.

That pattern seems strange for Dog Urine. Have you checked for Cutworm or White Grubs. Fence in a 6'x6' or similar area and cover with ground cover cloth then 1" crushed stone. Train (make) the dogs do their business there. Get a few rolls of sod. Soak each in a 5 gal pail of water for a...

If people would just run their equipment until it stalls from lack of fuel then if possible drain the Float Bowl and fuel tank, many of these problems would be solved. ALWAYS use Premium Fuel WITHOUT Methanol if possible. No storage problems.

I have done the same. All Good.