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Jonny, you say you are new to help forums so I’ve got a couple of suggestions which will help you out. You’ve made some mistakes (posting two threads about different engines, but not clearly identifying what is going on) so I suggest you start over, and follow these steps in both threads. 1...

Take one of your better half’s scrubbies and carefully rub over the engine numbers. Most times this will make the numbers pop out.

So let me get this straight, you created two threads about two engines, with different problems? Are the engines similar? On top of that you didn’t tell us this when you started the second thread. Now you are going to get everyone confused. Can you provide us a picture of the model numbers...

This manual might help. https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Kawasaki-Service-and-Repair-Manuals/FD620D-FD661D-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

Probably installed the drive gears backwards. This manual should help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/22446

Because the linkages are the same and I found this one before you posted the model numbers. If the OP would stick to one thread it would be easier to help him and if you would see that there were two threads, you would understand the confusion.

Attached are both a parts manual and service manual which should help you out. https://www.scribd.com/doc/265141946/Model-281707-0125-Briggs-Straton http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf

You are missing both the throttle and choke linkage. Once we get the model, type and code numbers, located on the shroud above the spark plug, we will be able to get you a service manual and part numbers.

More than once I have found the 301 engines with an automotive style coil will show spark when the plug is not under compression. Need to test for spark using an inline tester. With this style ignition system I would be checking the condition of the points and be sure they are well grounded...

Most common cause for this problem is a coil with a hot short or hot open. Next time it happens check for spark. No spark, I’d be replacing the coil.

Glad to hear you’ve joined the club of electrical troubleshooting. We’ve all been there and found that a good meter, schematic and patience are our friends.

This thread is going into too much politics and should be closed. The Grinch.

Ever thought about answering Star’s request for engine numbers? He’s a hell of a lot smarter than you if you are asking how to find websites.

Sorry I’m bad, old age is catching up on me.

Part number correct, wrong part? That would never happen on anything sold on Fleabay. Go to a good repair shop or dealer for the correct part. Don’t be penny wise, pound foolish.

Using the engine numbers the OP provided,it should use, Briggs & Stratton 271962 Air Pre-Filter, Foam

Please post engine numbers, model, type and code.

Don’t know if you have this manuals. https://www.toro.com/getpub/70805

These two service manuals may help you in the future. https://www.toro.com/getpub/186431 https://www.toro.com/getpub/196630

As someone who’s had to repair more than my share of tires where Slime or other sealing products have been used, it is not a cure all and you definitely will have a mess if the tire has to be removed in the future. I inform customers that if I find it there will be at least an extra 1/2 labor...

Believe it or not I’ve seen it and many other thing holding valves open. I think the weirdest one is a small machine screw, about 10 X 28X 1/4” holding the exhaust valve open. Have no idea how it got passed the intake valve and into the exhaust port with the screw head against the valve face...

If you have no throttle control cable, I’m wondering if you have a constant speed setup. When you move the governor rod does it stay in one place or drop back down? Second question, when you move the governor rod does the engine speed decrease? I’ve attached a service manual which may be of...

This may be the dumbest question I’ve asked but is the transmission tight on the frame? I vaguely remember having a unit where the transmission was loose and moving forward, which will shorten the rod length needed. Just gasping at the unknown.

That’s why I suggested he go to a dealer or good repair shop. They can cross reference the part and order it. Most dealers will not charge you if they look up the part and it’s not the correct one.

I’m finding that your engine uses a Champion RN4C, which has a 3/4” reach.

I’m finding 3/8-24 like Star said.

Need the model and serial numbers from the engine to help you. I hate guessing.

Looks to me like you have an Ariens 01127300 sheave and need an Ariens 07217100 belt. Sheave may no longer be available. I would take the model and serial numbers to an Ariens dealer or good repair shop, they should ne able to identify them for you.

Congratulations!!! Sometimes we have to do this to just make sure we can still do it. Got to keep the brain active. I myself probably get more out of solving that kind of problem than actually fixing the equipment.

Check the area where the brake pedal is attached to that cross shaft. I’m betting something is wrong somewhere along that shaft. Bent rod, cracked weld, twisted shaft, etc.

Unless someone has replaced the rod or spring I doubt either are too long. Did you check to see if that slotted bracket is properly welded to the shaft? The rod should be fully back in the slot when the brake is off.

You will have to find an assistant and do what the techs have to do when they get into this position. With the unit jacked up like you have it, you will have to crawl under the unit and watch what happens while your assistant applies and releases the brake pedal. What you are looking for is...

I’m sorry, but I can’t understand how the rod can be loose if the spring iis stretched tight. The rod puts the tension on the spring. Push brake pedal down, rod is pulled forward tightening the spring, pulling the brake arm.

If you set the parking brake, is the spring tight? If not the spring has stretched. Not uncommon on an eleven year old unit. If it is tight your brake pads are probably worn out. You might try tightening the nut on the brake assembly. Here is a parts breakdown showing where the assembly is...

Do you possibly have the numbers off the Agway, so we can possibly cross check against the tractor numbers.

On the engine the numbers will probably be on one of the valve covers. On the tractor the numbers will probably be on the chassis behind the left rear wheel.

It would be a lot easier to help you if you would post model and serial numbers for both the engine and tractor. Read Christmas Wish thread.

More than once I’ve gotten JD belts which were not the same length as what they have listed for that belt number. I have gotten to the point where all belts are measured before installation. I’m wondering if the OP has the tensioner pulley is positioned on the wrong side of the belt. This can...

If that filter has been in for more than a year, I would say normal use. It is recommended that filters be changed every year.

LV195 is an L-head engine, the last time I worked on one.

Now Star, you know his magic wand is this forum, except you must say Al-Ec-Ka-Zam. You have a Happy Holidays also from the Elf.

Setting valve clearance is not that easy on an L-head engine. Instructions are in the MANUAL I posted.

Yes.

Snowblower belt is John Deere #M158130 and should be 149” long. Here is a manual for your blower. http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMM177515_19/toc.html

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Provide us with the model and spec number for your Tecumseh engine. That way we can tell you the exact part number you need. I’m wondering why he is selling so cheap, those carbs are in demand and as you have found not cheap. My warning to you, penny wise pound foolish.

From personal experience, “DO NOT” use aftermarket belts on JD equipment or accessories. To the OP, please provide us with the tractor and blower model numbers from the ID tags. That way we will be able to see exactly which pieces you have and provide the correct part numbers and possibly manuals.

I’m also wondering if you really got an OEM carb, especially if you purchased it off FleaBay or Scamazon. Heard of people throwing crap carbs into to OEM box’s. Might not even be the correct one, just one that the seller says is compatible and will work.

Seen this more than once, willing to bet your seller had that carb sitting around for a few years and the float needle seat has dried out. This is what I would do, replace the float needle and seat. Here is the procedure I use. Part number is 631021B. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the...

See if this video helps. If it doesn’t post the blower model number off the ID tag.