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Remove the bolt to the right of the fuel cap and the tank and carb should come off together than you can separate the carb from the tank.

Fuel tank is integral with the rear handle part number 525862104, subs to 537437906. And doesn't come with fuel lines, or any of the trigger throttle handle parts. so those will have to be removed and reinstalled on the new fuel tank assembly or replaced separately if broken Good news it...

Carb not clean enough. Surging is almost related to a dirty carb, unusually in the idle circuit. Since carb engines run on the idle circuit even at full rpm with no load.

Mystery device is a vacuum operated fuel pump

Had a customer that I always said, if you could grow anvils in your yard, she would try to mow one.

And that is the most important thing, and the most neglected. And the people that are not maintaining the air filter are also not maintaining the oil or other maintenence

That is actually normal especially with the newer EPA mowers because they run too lean when they are cold.. I have seen several newer engines that won't even start below 50 degrees without outside assistance.

What I am seeing in my area is even the fixer uppers are going for stupid prices. Here is an example. https://www.bidschmid.com/auctions/6555/lot/75782-rhino-zero-turn-lawn-mower-should-run-but-do-not-have-a-key-61-deck-shows-295-hours From looking at it the air filter has never been changed...

To help us narrow it down it would help if we had the actual model number from the tag. ZT2200 covers about 50 different models. And what center section did you order by part number. I am suspecting wrong center sections and it is plumbed for the opposite direction. Normally this happens...

Basically you will find that all the brands are basically made by 3 companies. SBD(Legacy MTD) Husqvarna, and Toro. And Briggs has never made Murray, They may own them but have always farmed out the manufacturing to either SBD or Husqvarna until recently, but are now licensed to the same...

I have had several over the years that you couldn't tighten the drain due to the flats hitting the frame below the engine. Have to remove engine to tighten the twist and pull drains.

There has always been the clause of recommending changing the engine oil at half the recommended hour if used in dirty-dusty conditions, used under heavy load, or ran during periods of high temperatures. And most mowers during the summer hit all 3.

There is no hard stop to prevent pulling the thing apart again. And you will be tightening the threaded portion everytime you service the mower.

If I was you and had removed the entire drain valve, I would replace it with a drain hose and not that twist and pull valve that is known to unscrew from the engine, break off and come apart, either way I have seen more than one of those valves cause unexpected sudden engine disassembly.

Actually the first oil change at either 5 or 10 hours has been eliminated on engines equipped with an oil filter. First recommended oil change is now 100 hours. So don't get overly concerned about the first oil change and just change it at the end of season.

Here is a starting point But from your description I would say the ignition switch acting up in the past would be a starting point. But the crackling sounds like broken wire or loose connection which will take some visual inspection of the wiring connectors etc.

Same filter. Kohler/Rehlko just added S to the end of all their part numbers.

Talk about confusing. That deck uses the 1732354 or 1732354SM spindle pulley which appears to be the deep groove. The parts diagram (IPL) list the 1732204 supercede to 1732204SM for the shallow groove, List the 1733217 for the deep groove but supercedes to the 1732204SM Shallow groove. And...

Just got 4 more for the inventory a couple weeks ago for the spring stockup order, and there was no backorder or delay in shipping. That could of changed by now though.

Or in the case of the old Kohler K-series it was recommended to replace the head bolts. The understanding was the bolts were designed to expand and contract with the aluminum, but were basically a one time torque to yield bolt.

With the valve gaps set correctly, and the spark plug removed for easier engine turning, turn the engine by hand while watching the intake valve. Just before TDC compression stroke you should see the intake valve get bumped open slightly. That is the compression release. If no bump then time...

In this case I don't think there is a single fuse or fuse pin that isn't corroded to the point that all of them are probably causing issues. My first order of business is to rebuild the fuse block. And that maybe all that is needed to repair the no start issue.

I have been seeing cannot load this page errors, and slow to load pages.

Once upon a time there were typically .010,.020,.030 oversize pistons. Most mower engine manufacturers have dropped the .010 and .030 oversize pistons sizes, which leaves the ..020 as the only oversize option available. And in some cases there were never any oversize pistons offered. Demand...

Shuts down as if you turn off the key doesn't sound like fuel issue to me. Loss of fuel issue normally will spit and sputter a few seconds before actually dying. Issue to me thinks more of a loss of spark issue. Does this engine have the oil pressure switch which could be faulting out and...

Lets start with the actual 7 digit model number from the model number tag since there are 17 different models of the IS500Z. And then also get the model number info off of the valve cover. I suspect the run and or start issue is related to the battery/charging system. Also if it is the...

Does anybody have the wiring schematic for the gator XUV 620i. Had a customer bring me one that will not start after fuel pump replacement and then proceded to disassemble the fuse block. An this guy was a JD tech.

Will need more clarification since the 4622 brings up Zero turns not lawn tractor style mowers. And if this is a Z turn than it would have 2 hydro's not one, which would lead to more of a belt issue than a tranny issue. So we will need the actual model and serial number from the mower tag to...

Looks like it supercedes to 599568901

Worked on a mower with the same engine as yours that would run for about 5 minutes and then die like running out of gas. Clean carb, or in some cases drain carb and would run another 5 minutes. Ended up being a faulty spark plug. So that may be something that you may want to check and replace.

Appears it should be a 7/16-20 tapped 1 inch deep

See if this is relative to your issue https://www.manualslib.com/manual/2314540/Kohler-7000-Series.html

I suspect both issues are related. If the key is in the run position do you have battery voltage at the voltage regulator. If standard 15 amp regulator The center pin will be the B+. I am thinking you don't have voltage to the regulator which is also effecting the voltage to the fuel...

The thread with the fuse issue was answered in 2019 and the wiring diagram for that issue was post 18. And the thread was brought back from the dead a few days ago with a repair of a regulator grounding issue from member @JNaughton using the testing that I posted in 2019.

Item number 730D https://www.partstree.com/models/9p602-0023-f1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/blower-housing-rewind-starter-2/ This may also help understand what is going on. The said in the service bulletin that parts for both are available, but I suspect the previous date code parts have...

Emissions vacuum line that connects to the rollover valve on top of the fuel tank. If you don't have those items then ignore the barb.

The issue is they are showing the starter for the use after 140601 but nothing for the before numbers. And the new series starte doesn't fit the old series blowing housing. I suspect the only way to get around it would be to order the starter/blower housing kit.

The service manual for the single cylinder Intek says to use valve guide lube on the head bolts

Yes you can always go heavier gauge. Mowers tend to be made on the very edge of acceptable wiring to make them function when new, but add corrosion and those almost too small wires can create issues.

Husqvarna limits their dealers to 3 per year shipped directly from them. And MTD at one time supplied the adjustment tools to their dealers, but stopped about 10 years ago citing EPA warnings about since their dealers didn't have the proper testing equipment to maintain emissions compliance...

Heck, even some of the OEM's won't sell their authorized dealers the tools to adjust them.

Ran into this exact issue last year on new Kubota seat. Replacement seat was slightly different than the original and design wouldn't allow proper seat switch actiivation. For other issues sometimes people don't weigh enough to properly depress the seat.

I would assume they are referring to 0.8 mm which translates to 18 gauge.

Item 957 https://www.partstree.com/models/104m02-0010-f1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/exhaust-system-fuel-supply-7/ part number 84004416

Check out the John Deere freedom mulching deck. It has the toothed timing belt.

Idle speed seems fine to me. This engine most likely has a governored idle, so engine speed is being controlled by idle governor spring and governor system. The clunking could be a sticky issue with the electric clutch and tapping on the antirotate bracket. Or could be a drive belt/idler...

Model number info for the engine is most likely stamped into the side of the engine block on the side opposite the fuel tank and carb.

I have never seen a 9/16 spark plug thread. All spark plugs have been metric thread since 1934. I would suspect that you have the normal 14mm-1.25 that every small engine other than handheld uses. I don't think you have drawn enough dirt past where the welch plugs should be to cause that...

Made by Kioti Most likely the same as the CS2510H And warranty would be handled by your local Bobcat dealer. So go see your local Bobcat or Kioti dealer.

https://www.partstree.com/models/31h777-0202-e1-briggs-stratton-vertical-engine/camshaft-crankshaft-cylinder-operator-s-manual-piston-rings-connecting-rod-warning-label-2/ Item 9 on this diagram, but be aware this is only used before code date 07071900. After that date it uses RTV sealant.