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Bull****. Every piece of equipment 40+ years old has already been converted to bunaN or other ethanol proof materials.

The fuel "pump" is a crankcase pressure driven diaphragm pump. The diaphragm is torn and oil is making it's way past.

Bull****. Every piece of equipment 4)+ years old has already been converted to bunaN or other ethanol proof materials. Prove your "corrosion" story with links to SAE reports.

"Create" ....science matters and this isn't it.

...and your responsibility to provide those SAE links to prove your contention. Not taking info or opinion from Billy Bob's gasoline stories.

Totally unnecessary unless you are running equipment more than 40+ years old whose rubber components have not been changed to Buna N or hoses made in the stone age. And every new piece of gas powered vehicle has been changed over since at least 1979, 3 years after ethanol was re-introduced (used...

https://www.sae.org/publications/technical-papers/content/2022-01-0486/ Again, no to "stabilizers" unless you insist on letting the fuel sit for over 12 months....unlikely in most all cases.

No.

Bull****. Stop spreading crap. The effective compression ratio of any utility two stroke is around 6 to 7 to one, no where near detonation territory and added octane only has the effect of draining your bank account faster. Get an education...... http://www.faqs.org/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part1/

In concentrations above 30%, ethanol will act as a cylinder wall oil wash and accelerate wear. By now all modern engines are compatible with 10 and 15% ethanol. In the 70s raced a Hirth powered 634cc Arctic Cat on 100% methanol. That crap would give you a really bad headache if you didn't wear a...

SAE report.... Assessment of the Effectiveness of Three Aftermarket Gasoline Fuel Stabilizers in Preventing Gum Formation and Loss of Oxidation Stability 2022-01-0486 Fuel stabilizers have long been marketed to consumers to prevent oxidation and gum...

Precisely. When you "change" auto trans fluid you can't get it all in the first go because there is so much left in the converter. Yeah, a different type of hydraulic but the principle remains. If it really bothers you that much change the fluid again in a month or so. 🤔

Since they didn't I will.....just what I'd do not gospel. Automatic Transmission Fluid and Acetone....yeah, they don't mix but the acetone helps pull the ATF down the shaft. https://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/ubb/printthread/Board/2/main/75235/type/thread The above link was...

Drilled out jets? 🤫🙄

Maybe on the right track....bought an edger from a guy that said it wouldn't run. $5 later it's on the way home. First checked the valve lash.....the smaller the engine the more sensitive they are to correct setup. Forget what the lash was but adjusted the engine and would start on first pull...

Run away.

For all of you who have mowers that have this electronic module (XT1, XT2, and several others....and may apply to other modules that use a plastic start stop key...), you'll be pleased to note that the key tip has a small magnet that pulls in a reed switch so that the entire mower functions...

NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black Screws on to the existing wire.

Duh...

Is your carbon wet or dry....difference between oil and excess fuel.

Why if they're all 65psi? 🤫

Stick the plugs back in the caps and ground them.....give the spark somewhere t go.....

Continental aircraft engines are good down to 40# per the mfg. 65 is not spectacular but is probably much higher when running. Should run.

Precisely.

Lock nut for a deck welded nut....

Rings that have seated and were more effective at the beginning of service life. As the engine ages the rings will wear more and allow just that scant bit of oil to seep past when not running. On startup the combustion gasses pressurize the rings from the piston side and press them into the...

These are so simple to work on.....two long screws hold the whole thing together. If you decide to take it apart just take a permanent marker and draw a line down the case from one end to the other on just one side.... makes reassembly easier. It's not rocket science....bet you can do this, but...

Bet these are plain oilite bearings that are running dry initially when cold until they warm up and exude what remaining oil there is. Could be wrong, tho. In which case oil would be a better bet. Oilite is a sintered metal that is oil impregnated at the factory....but it's not permanent.

Have you ever replaced the air filter? If you unlatch the filter housing and lift the filter up does the surging stop? Bad batch of filters years ago had a flame retardant sprayed on. Yeah....it stopped flames but also severely restricted airflow.

Yes. It does. Supposed to have some "play".

I love the way everyone evaluates a problem.....don't look at the condition, just replace it. Starters last a looooong time...brushes, commutators, and lubrication don't. I've rebuilt several that just needed the brushes replaced, commutator cleaned, and inside cleaned. Sparse lubrication is...

Horizontal V twins smoke a bit on startup...it's just the way they are. I wouldn't do anything unless and until it makes smoke all the time. And it's just a couple of drops getting by the rings while sitting.....nice thin, heated oil. Ever watch a radial engine start up? Same principle.

That's the problem with not understanding physics.....it acts over milliseconds not instantaneously. The difference between letting the clutch out slowly or just dumping it. But I guess if all you've ever experienced is an automatic that makes no sense either.

One of the nicest things you can do for your mower...... https://www.gdimeters.com/article.cfm?ArticleNumber=7

Get a Volt/Ohm meter.....all of $10 on Amazon.

Have you manually spun the blades.....that means by hand.....with the mower off and check to see if anything is being struck by a blade? With your stump incident I wouldn't be surprised if a tear in the blade enclosure ( much less stout than the actual deck) is now being caught by a possible...

What "stopped"? The entire drive system? Just the blades but the pulleys and belt kept going (damn near impossible)? Was the deck loaded up with rock hard grass? Were the blades the same length as old? Was the clutch still engaged when it "stopped"?

Ever try to bend 1/4 steel.

That's like rewarding criminals.....

Too much grease can cause rolling elements to skid vice roll. Rolling elements require a vanishingly small amount of grease. This is the same reason more two stroke oil isn't better for two strokes' crankshaft bearings...the excess oil builds a hydrodynamic wedge ahead of the ball and the ball...

Get these instead... NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018JVQXC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title They screw into the plug wire about an inch.

First....across the slope is much harder and more dangerous. Straight up, straight down. My Bad Boy Would handle some pretty nasty slopes. Even with that I got tired of fighting the ZTR....had a Craftsman rider with an 18 horse single. Much easier to maneuver but had to put an electric fuel pump...

Chutes are cute if there's zero chance of chucking something far enough to damage/injure. Or in one instance had house in the NE that had a lawn that was above the level of the house. With a freeze thaw cycle glacial till pops out of the dirt...window didn't like it. Otherwise, bungee up. Mine...

Cash leaves you no recourse. Customer says, mechanic says. I do all my own work so the card only gets me parts for which I can challenge quality. It's leverage against bull****tery.

Never pay cash, always card on service. Then you can dispute the hell out of it.

That's what I suspected poster meant. Files 😜

This damn forum software sucks....what damn site DOESN'T take jpeg files. And for mobile devices....halt, stop, freeze, tries to correct your spelling.......y'all should ***** hard at this site's owners.....but good luck finding them. Rant done. Get a set of grease needles off Amazon. In most...

"Torch tip" ? What the hell is that.