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If all you need are the connectors on the ends of the wires, they are usually a blade terminal and just the blade terminals can be replaced.

Nope.....you wouldn't be the first person to do it!

You won't see any braking parts from taking the wheel off. The brake is internal and the brake lever is on the outside of each wheel motor toward the inside of the mower. If you want to start the mower with out setting the brake to see if it's locked up or not, just leave the brake off and reach...

I have one of these dual circuit stators at the shop, i'll be back at the shop Monday and I'll look at it and see what color wires are where.

I would....a twin cyl is gonna be smoother running, more power.....so it's all a plus, as long as you can get it all swapped over ok!

It's all bolted together and will come apart if enough bolts are taken out, just put it back the same way (unless it was screwed up to begin with)......left to loosen, right to tighten!

Check and make sure your choke is closing all the way in the full choke on position, 3/4 closed won't start them when their cold.

Don't blow out your air filter, it ruins them, just replace it!

Sometimes, if the repair gets beyond the mowers worth or a repair you can't do yourself....it comes to that.

Who knows what has been chopped up and rewired, even under the engine shroud, so use a OHM meter to test the output of the wires coming down out of the shroud and use the chart StarTech posted in #5 to know what wires goes where.

That looks like wires coming from the charging stator. That model has 3 different stators but, that looks like the Dual Circuit stator. It has DC volts going to the battery to charge it and has AC volts going to the headlights. They are notorious for over charging the battery though, that's why...

I agree but.....I just look at it as job security.....and start whip'in wrenches!

I think I mis-read it also......I'm a Service Tech at a dealership that sells Ferris, IMO, they are one of the TOP SHELF mowers out there, and not just because we sell them, I have worked on most all brands through the years!

That's the ones, hard to believe they paid a engineer $$$ to design that.....well, lets face it, there are several other "brilliant designs" on these jewels we call mowers. But you know what, I feel that if it wasn't for all these "brilliant designs" ....we wouldn't have a job!

Some are a good design, some are bad...what I was referring to were the plastic sleeve on one side of the cheapy mowers, when you grease them, you grease that sleeve only because the grease comes right out and don't cross the shaft at all but, I have seen those wheels you're talking...

Some parts are just no longer being made and the only way to find them is, if someone has new, old stock sitting somewhere. In reality....if a company made something that lasted forever and made the parts for it forever....they would never sell any new products!

And most of those more inexpensive mowers that have a grease zirk on the front, only greases one side and won't grease the spindle all the way across anyway, it has to be taken apart and both sides greased.

Yep, looks like head bolt threads, I wouldn't worry about that!

Didn't you post this same video in the Cub Cadet section early this morning? What are you wanting to know? One thing I would do is, put a good cap on your 5 gal fuel jug, to keep dirt, water out of your fuel!

So this thread is almost a year old.....you bought the Simplicity? How's it doing for you?

Huh,....custom blades...nice!

You'll have get ask Rivets about the extra set of hands deal.....................

There are PLENTY of NEWER style mowers out there, pick yourself one you like.......get out your wallet, close your eyes and go for it! I always tell people " Buy a good one but....only cry once"

Great tip for people! These are not the easiest to change!

I checked those 2 B&S engines we have for parts, they are NOT a Vanguard engines, they are 27 hp Commercial Turf. So I looked up that Engine and they make 4 different flywheels for that model #, 3 are NO longer available and the # you gave is one of them. 1 is available still but it's # 844819...

The key itself is only for timing, it's the taper that holds it on !

Those carbs are SOOOO hard to get just right! I quit screwing with them and just get an O.E.M. replacement carb, less headache and they always work well.....so far!

I agree.....that is the numbers!

"Maybe move the coils 2-3 mm to the left to compensate?" 2mm = .080 - 3mm = .120 I don't think the coils will move that far.....and they won't need too!

Ok good deal...what I described is what larger mowers have on them, the ones that fold down!

I'll check Thurs when I go to work to see if we have the right model, we have a couple bad B&S engines in boxes in the back.

You "opened up the 2 peg holes", are you talking about where the dowel pins go? How much did you open them up? The dowel pins aligns the sump cover up with the crank , cam, etc. so it don't move out of alignment and or cause it to leak oil, the bolts only hold it together.

I would test the Clutch for resistance with an OHM meter....there is a spec resistance number, it will tell you if the clutch is good or bad!

Yes, doing it like that....it should blow your finger off easily, if you have it sealed up.

All fuel filters are not created equal. There are the screen filters, which I think flow the best for gravity feed fuel systems, then the Micron family of filters - 10, 15, 30, 51, 7-11, 70-80, 75, 8-10, 80 microns......take your pick!

You're right, they should both be installed at the factory before they leave and....they might be by now. When we sold Hustlers, maybe about 3-4 yrs ago, I installed several updated crossbrace kits on them but, had never seen that clutch cover bracket.....that's a good idea for them....they need it!

Whatever you decide on what the selling price is....wait for winter when the snow is flying and you can probably add a couple 100's to it & get it! Definitely won't get as much for a snow blower in the middle of summer, as when it's snowing!

You might try a remote tank, hang it above the carb / mower so it gravity feeds fuel to the carb, and connect it directly to the carb with new fuel line and no filter.....that way you're eliminating all the fuel lines, tank, filter that you are using now.....then you'll know more of where the...

I'm curious as to where you learned this method of removing a flywheel ? " what works best is to hit the flywheel itself, not the shaft, never hit the shaft because all you are doing is beating against the bottom bearing" Experience, school, youtube ?

I wouldn't do just hinges. Buy some 1/4" plate steel cut to size, drill 1/2" holes in them (in the right spots), weld them on, drill holes into bottom part of ROPS, You don't want to accidentally need your ROPS to work, and the hinge idea fails....could be a bad deal!

Broken hr meter, that usually means......A LOT of hrs!

Like others have said, that is not a burnt valve. That is oil burning on the head because, that is the Exhaust valve and that is where all the heat is centered. This is a result of too much heat, causes can be many....debris build-up on the cooling fins of that cyl head, debris build-up on grass...

I'd say your primer is not working, that is how you get a small shot of fuel in the venturi, thus easy starting. That kind of set-up is real finicky to get to prime right. The gasket just behind that plastic housing has a super small slot in it to pump a shot of air through a small passage in...

If you can put an inline fuel shut-off on it, shut off the fuel and let it run dry and stop running....shouldn't backfire then. I did that to my snow blower but, just so it would start up when the snow flies every winter after setting spring, summer, fall and most of the winter every year!

Welcome....there is a lot of info and help, if you ever need it, on here!

What is the problem? Describe what it's doing and doing wrong.

Seems like I recall that at the last Kohler engine update that, they said Craftsman mowers are now built by MTD and wanted all Cub Cadet dealers to do warranty on them. I'm not saying MTD is the best thing out there but....it might be an improvement.

If all governor linkage and springs are on and set right, It's probably the governor assembly itself inside the engine. Seems like those are plastic and get brittle with all the hot/cold, hot/cold of a mower engine, and break!

That's kinda a toss up but......IMHO, Craftsman has been on the lower side of the scale for quite a while.

Make sure the push rods are on the lifters. Removing a sump pan without relieving valve spring pressure can move the cam and the push rods can fall off the lifters, rockers, among other things!