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That one is metal. If it has water in the hydro it can make it run hot could make noise have low power. If it has water in the hydro and is milky looking I would change the oil and filter. HT1000 oil is expensive but it is a 1,000 hour oil. That one is metal.

Said the idler looked fine. Is it metal or is it black plastic. If black plastic I would replace it. If it is black plastic I bet the bearing is going bad and making a noise.

Have sold a lot of the Black Hawks and Eagles Only replaced two of the Parker hydros both were due to leaks. Seem to be almost bullet proof. Might check the belt. Has the idler ever been replaced? They came out with a plastic idler on those early models. Have seen them fail with really low hours...

Sounds like the belt is not releasing like it should. Make sure it is the right belt. and all the guides are in place

Just looked up the IPL on the trimmer looks like there is a place to put a pin through the side of the of the housing to hold the bottom holder plate.

They did not make it to work on though. Just finnished one putting head gaskets on it. Have to take the gov control off to get the shield off no 1 cylinder. Kind of a pain to have to do that.

I have owned two of those mowers.In fact it was the first ZTR I ever owned. One of my sons is still using one now. The only thing I can say bad about the little mower is it should have had a 20 hp engine on it. The other mower I still have and am about to put a 20 hp engine on it and put it back...

Ran into MTD built mowers that took that belt that was too long. We started using a 57 inch belt. Wala problem solved.

I never have taken the carb off one of these engines to clean the carb. Just take the top off and you can clean it without taking it off. But be careful if it is a fixed jet on the idle circuit you can blow the welch plug out of the front of the carb. You can tell if it is a fixed jet if there...

The adapter you are showing comes off and you probably can get a Speed Feed head to fit it. Speed-Feed® 450 Trimmer Head Shindaiwa-USA.com https://www.shindaiwa-usa.com › getattachment PDF 095" (2.4mm) Silentwist™ trimmer line. Speed-Feed® 450. P/N 28820-12000. 10MM LH. (Fits Shindaiwa 22F...

If I remember correctly bagging wagons worked best on the 33, 28, and 25 inch cut hi vac mowers. Baggers did not work well on 30 inch cut mower.

No compression means your pistons are no moving up and down. Broken rods

Looks like a lot of slap in the belt check for bent pulley or shaft.

Valve lash is .005 to .007 on the intake and .009 to .011 on the exhaust. Cylinder head torque is 140 inch lbs.

Never had a pair of 10CR vise grips slip while torquing a clutch bolt if I get them tight enough.

Gee I am really thankful that we have a mower lift to work off of. Sure is nice.

I have found that you can usually take a pair of 10CR vise grip pliers that are made to hold round objects. You can usually get them between the clutch and engine pulley or above the engine pulley and lock them down. They will most of the time stop against something on the mower and you can...

Kohler SV twin aka Courage. Seen a lot of them with lots of hours on them they are noisey. Singles are different seen lots of them go down. 7000 is a better engine.

I own a X1901 50 inch cut 2000 model and XXW2500 72 inch cut 1997 model. Won't give them up.

Work for a Dixie Chopper dealer a lot of the complains I see are from people trying to use them as a bulldozer. They then blame it on the mower. I know this is on the older models late 90's and early 2000's. I have replaced several engines on these models that they spend 4K on them must be a...

My bad

Did you mount the tip over switch in the wrong position? It is the small round tube with two wires sticking out of one end. It mounts with the two wires pointing up.

What size battery are you putting in it? Does it start ok for a while then won't start. If so you may have a charing system problem.

Did you have one of the rear wheels off? And leave the key out of the axle. Or I have seen the key work its way out if the washer is left off the axle at some time.

Sound like idle circuit not supplying enough fuel. Try pulling the choke slowly until it levels out. If it does that is your problem. Carb needs a good cleaning.

What is an FS400 Kawasaki? If so they don't list an FS400 engine. They list a FE400 but no specks for the ring gap.

Oh OK Sorry about that.

If I were doing that I would go with the FS730 it is the same block.

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Have you pulled the blower housing off and cleaned the cylinder fins? Model type and code no off the engine would help.

Sounds like a ground issue.

Model type and code would help to identify the carb. Had a T30 MTD today that was surging. Took the carb Nikki which in my opinion sorriest carb on the market. It was a night mare to get off since I had to take the engine cover, seat and seat bracket off. Bracket that the seat bracket bolted to...

Snapper use to make a mulching kit for their rear engine rider and it limited the speed of the mower by blocking the shifter so you could not shift into any speed past third I think it was.

All I haver ever seen mulching kits do is clog up under the deck and leave big ball of grass in the yard. The problem is no one slows down when they mulch. Might help the problem. Mow more often and don't cut more than 1/3 the height of the grass

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You should never shut the engine off with the PTO running. When you do this it makes the PTO a generator and can feed back through the wiring harness and mess things up.

Try spraying some Gum Out carb cleaner in the throat of the carb. Could you have water in the fuel?

Did you check the oil before you started mowing and is it now full of oil.

Check the front hydro mounting bracket to see if it is broken. Also check the idler arm to see if it moves freelly and is not hitting the frame and keeping tension on the belt. Proper position of the idler arm is parallel to the frame. Spring tension is three inches compressed. You can adjust...

If the top main seal is leaking you should check the top main bearing and crank shaft for wear. To do this turn the fly wheel toward the magnets and push and pull really hard to see if there is play in the bearing and crank shaft. If this is the problem It won't do any good to replace the seal...

If it is the governor hope the shaft the governor works on is not wallowed out in the block.

Looks like it may be some kind of belt guide.

Manufactures do not reccomend blowing the air filter out with compressed air as you can blow a hole in the paper element. Rendering it useless. Kawasaki does not reccomend oiling the prefilter.

In the shop where I work it is filled to the full mark on the dip stick. Would never do it any other way.

New one on EBay for $20.00

Great job looks good!!!!!

Is the clicking coming from the solenoid. A pto switch can cause a no start but if the solenoid is clicking it is not the problem.

If you are just replacing the valve stem seal why are you taking the heads off? That can be done with the heads still on.

Did you check to see if you bent a spindle. Something had to give to break 2 inches off the end of the blades. Could have bent the deck. Is one of the blades hitting the deck? But that should make a noise. But a bent shaft or a busted bearing might not. From the smart *** that suggested you buy...

Clean the exhaust port and muffler screen.