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New rings are cheap, try to smooth the piston and bore out the cylinder. You don't have much to lose.

After...and replacing rings with .010 oversized rings.

Am I looking t the photo correctly? You're doing this work in your house?

I once had a similar problem with an old Wheel Horse, I used various grades of flapper wheels and time, but it did a great job, so great that I kept on going until I was 0.010 over. I think that old guy is still going strong.

Does this oil light flash all the time? I'm thinking of the extreme heat we're having, if the light only flashes when you are on a hill or other grade it might just be the oil is hotter (thinner) than usual, so it runs to the sides of the engine and off of the pressure switch.

If you can possibly afford it, now is the time to put in underground sprinkler system.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

The idler pulley should (when removed) spin freely and slow gently too a stop. If it is hard or noisy when you spin it, or if stops spinning quickly. OR if you can wiggle it at all, you need to replace it, fortunately, it's cheap.

Yep, this bolt goes right up into the center of the stacked pulleys. Use thread-locker when you re-tighten it or you will make a hobby of replacing this bolt. Even though it ran right for you, those stacked pulleys will shred the belts and come right off if you don't replace that bolt.

What the hell has happened to Craftsman? They used to be a reliable name brand.

Have you checked the crankshaft key to make sure the key isn't broken or bent, the keyway isn't degraded and the key is correct size?

Using the info Slomo provided, check your valves.

I'd like to know what the heavy object was. I would try fitting that piece that broke off back in place, then super-glue it to stay there. Then I would drill and tap (looking at this pic, I would be coming in from the right, with 6 - 10 small holes and screw it together. At that point the...

Crankcase breather

I always buy belts from NAPA, the biggest problem I have is sometimes having to wait a day for delivery to the store. Great belts and the people will work with whatever info you can gather up, including measuring your old belts.

I don't know your age, but if it was me, I'm old, I would have to ask myself mow badly I need a clamp-on ammeter if I've never used one before. In fact, based on what you have told us, I'd buy the cheapest meter I could find.

I don't know what pump you are talking about. What is the pump part number?

This model engine requires fuel, air, compression and spark in order to run. Make sure you have each and your problem should be solved.

We are still graduating geniuses, we just don't seem to recognize them as we do bygone geniuses. Bill Gates, Elon Musk, Jeff Bezos, Steve Jobs and many more.

That stuff should be illegal.

Have you checked that breather hose yet???

I would replace the $0.10 woodruff key and try it out before taking the machine anywhere.

You replaced a cable and think you'll get another 20 years out of the machine? Do they make these cables in my size?

Hey. I'm cute. Old, but cute.

"An entire bottle of pb blaster (not literally but a ton)" OK, so you quite literally used a ton of PB Blaster, I hope you let it soak in for a day or two. The oxy-torch method is your best best. Good luck. If you go the route of cutting a slot and using a straight screwdriver, I recommend...

I may be off-base here but I believe a spark plug tester will tell you the condition of the whole ignition EXCEPT the spark plug.

Is your push-rod bent? Roll it on a sheet of glass to find out.

Look closely at the gold starter, the small cylinder on top is the solenoid. Look closely at the solenoid in the photo and you will see a stab connector between the two threaded posts. Connect your purple-covered wire to that stab connector, start your motor and slap yourself on the back.

Check out Craig;s List and such for a used one. Often you can buy a non-running unit for next to nothing.

Dude, seriously, replace your plug. It costs $5, it's the likely culprit and a simple job. Forget what it looks like, that doesn't tell you much unless you are checking the electrode for engine diagnosis, you are not doing that. Pop in a new plug and watch your worries drift away.

I'm not sure what this means, but you should consider a new plug. And yes, they do fail internally. I have seen plugs (usually Champion) that look just fine and spark just fine until compression is applied in the cylinder, then things expand and contract and you end up with a spark going around...

Yep, your flywheel key broke, this going to cost you upward of 25 cents to fix.

I've never used soap and water, but I'll give it a try, thanks.

That part where you say "it ran a dozen times" was that this season? Knowing that could narrow down your problem. If the engine has sat through a winter and now it won't start, I wouldn't even consider the valves, it's likely bad gas or the result of bad gas.

Don't start redoing what you've already done. First thing you need to do is fix that pull cord or remove it and use a cordless driver. Now, I haven't seen any mention of compression... you can borrow a tester from an auto parts store, without enough compression the engine will not run, fuel will...

I'm not sure what this means, but you should consider a new plug. And yes, they do fail internally. I have seen plugs (usually Champion) that look just fine and spark just fine until compression is applied in the cylinder, then things expand and contract and you end up with a spark going around...

I would never do this with the head on the engine. Buy a new head gasket and do this job with the head clamped to a bench. You really don't want to have even one little chip of metal roaming around in there.

If you have absolutely ruled out the carb, then exhaust valve and/or rings have to be the problem. Before getting too deep I would carefully inspect the fuel tank for any crap laying around and (I harp on this) the crankcase breather and tubing are clear and not overflowing. .

Look, you can go with one of the well known brands from a reputable dealer and generally be very happy. You can go to a bog-box store, or Walmart or a million other places and buy the brands they are selling. Chances are all those brands at these types of stores are made by MTD. If you take the...

I have succesfully used a window fan laid on it's back across some scrap 2 x 4 s, put my can of carb cleaner, complete with carb right on top of the rig. Those cheap fans are never balanced and they will agitate the fluid very nicely. Works like a charm.

This guy owns stock in Kodak.

You might also want to check for obstruction in your crankcase breather.

Wouldn't that happen with the exhaust valve open, creating an easier path than around the rings?

You can get cheaper than these, but not better. https://www.weknowmow.com/new-models/sarlo-commercial-lawn-mowers-large-belt-drive-1801693493697018840745060

One acre, presumably with at least one building on it. Buy yourself a good Toro walk-behind and get that exercise you (and I) need.

Won't that get you a face full of gasoline?

Inside the cleanest carb on the planet is a very small filter, it's bowl shaped. Work that filter out and clean it, as well as the area behind it.

I'm glad you are too much of a gentleman to comment on the "strap-on" comment.

The crankcase is overflowing with oil that is mixed with fuel because the main jet needle is stuck open. If smelling the dipstick is out of the question, take an oil sample to a lab where they can determine if there is fuel in the oil, but option 1 is much easier.