Search results

I think it uses the 00 weight grease, drill a hole to put it in. Some videos on you tube on how to clean the pulleys too, very important maintenance there.

And in Physics + is minus and - is supply of electrons or +. I studied Physics until I started to understand it then realized just how dumb I really am.

Looks like 28m707 when blown up.

Might probe the battery terminals with a meter. Maybe the high powered batteries are series or parallel wired some way that's different.

Thanks for the info. I guess I was living in the past when two strokes were real oil burners.

Something like this?

I always tip the mower so the spark plug is up. Not the handiest way to get under the mower sometimes but avoids all the mess.

I'd think those bearings/bushings could be replaced with something generic and available. Might need some reworking to fit but could easily wind up with a better setup for a whole lot less money.

Did it do this with the old carb?

The carb on this series has a port that enriches the mixture when the governor pulls the throttle to wide open and that bloww the extra fuel/oil mix back to the intake area. As the carb and throttle shafts wear that extra fuel starts getting back to that intake a little all the time, the motor...

If the ground wire doesn't work I suspect you'll need to pull the flywheel. Might find something like this: Hopefully yours is a lot cleaner.

Little different over here with the Native Americans. Quite a few major battles have been recorded in folklore and thousands of arrowheads and chipped hatchets (tomahawks) found in fields have proven it. But they were much better caretakers of the land than we have been.

Just curious, wondering what the piston top on a decent running two stroke is supposed to look like. Looking down in my blower and the piston is light brown and dry. I get a small chunk of light colored carbon in the plug gap now and then too. Seems like that piston should be some oily...

Oops. Says so in the first post even. Thanks!

One reason I don't like front wheel drive propelled mowers. Have to lift on the handle to get traction. I have filed grooves in the tires on an old Murray that we had, helped a lot with traction.

Not sure which post to respond to but I'd first check the transmissions on anything you're looking at. I'd consider spending a couple hundred dollars more to get a higher rated setup in that area. Engines and other parts are about the same in a price range these days. Look for cylinder...

Rig up a 12 volt light bulb with wires to connect to battery terminals, try the starter and see if the light stays on. If so, good battery.

Put the mower on some concrete, see if the wheels are spinning or just not pulling.

Not too uncommon for this. The lock nut takes up the slack in the threads on the adjuster, a real small amount will show up at the valve tip. Just adjust a couple thousands loose to get the right clearance when all secured. Might rotate the flywheel back and forth while checking the clearance to...

Belts tight? Pull the belts off the bottom pulleys and see what that does. I crank my Lawn Boy with a Sears drill, teaches that mower a lesson too. Was your motor running ok to start with?

Might start looking around for a used mower like yours for parts? Something like this: https://limaohio.craigslist.org/grd/d/glandorf-john-deere-lt155-riding-mower/7204396500.html

Looks like a sleeved engine and the vertical marks might be caused by the sleeve to block securement design. And that pattern might be why it's using oil. Hone and new rings might take care of it.

Try it with a load on it, couple 500 watt work lights is good, doesn't need exact voltage etc.

I've also had a bad spark plug do this. Hard to trace this down though.

Last two S10s, Regular Havoline 10w30 in both for 300k miles, both still running, motors untouched internally. Good enough for me.

Stopped for gas today, saw a guy across the way with a big hogleg in a holster. About 18" long, barrel the size of my wrist, handle like my ankle. Slugs on the belt looked to be about 3/4" dia. Pretty proud of it, walked in the store with it openly. Election time here in the states. If he...

Auto choke thermostat not working right?

Probably does need some tuning. How long did you run it? Could be the muffler just needs a good burn out?

I wonder if he's still in business after six years?

I'd bypass the fuel filter first. Not real sure what that seafoam is but might be some thicker than straight gas? Filters are finicky sometimes on mowers.

That 2000 mile drive would kill the deal for me. But always on the lookout for free lawn stuff. And I've had mowers that really tried to beat me too.

Good tips. Maybe there's hope for me after all?

I've put a gauge on engines before by making a metal bracket for the sensor bolted close or against the block. Get the oil temp with this, heat will conduct through the bracket to the sensor with very little loss. Also did this for the hydro transmission to see actually how hot it runs, sensor...

Might take a look at this review: https://www.amazon.com/review/R3OSDE2O1NQGET

That was a good mower back then, probably better than most today. Twin cylinder, Eaton hydro, solid build. Above numbers are spot on I think.

That Hydro Gear transaxle has a separate hydraulic unit and differential. As stated above changing the hydraulic oil would be a major chore. The gear oil would be some easier, (real easy with a drain plug). But sometimes it's tough to get it resealed without leaks. I'd leave it alone...

Is this something that could be welded?

I like that Vanguard engine. And I like the Ferris. How has that old 48" mower served you?"

That topic has been beat to death these days. Barrier lubrication, eliminated from most current oils, extremely important with flat tappet cams and here with the untreated unsleeved aluminum bore motors.

I'd search around the net for a smaller LED light bar, wire to the original headlight power, ten times the light for less current, won't normally burn out.

I'd say you got your money's worth on that mower. If really damaged you might do a Surplus Center or Harbor Freight motor swap and get another 14 years?

I'd look for that purchase receipt first. But then a of today's warranties are pretty much garbage unless purchased from an actual lawn mower shop, spend hours on emails and phone calls, lucky to talk to a person, even luckier to get any action.

We might be missing something here. Does the mower run like it should?

I suspect that sharp dogleg at the top of the big pipe is creating a road block to the flow. But with real dry material it probably works as you are now seeing. Those baggers are pretty handy this time of year.

Hope you don't see this on teardown. I found out the hard way that today's oil is not so good for old aluminum bore Briggs engines. Look close and see that the top where the rings still run is ok. Down lower the bore is not only scored but metal is actually being pulled off from the piston...

Some older Murrays have the shift on the fender and a reverse lock out contact piece there.

If you're still into the old Briggs a couple things you can do for free. Pull the head, some sandpaper on a flat piece of steel. Plane (cut) the surface down as much as you can and still have a good gasket surface. Find a bigger carb on something in a scrap yard, make it work since you don't...

I know all about the autochoke but I still had to watch Tarryl's video just for fun.

I believe the 240 is made by MTD. And I would really avoid turning real sharp to get the 5" radius, seems like that would be hard on everything.

Need the model number, first three numbers tell who made it I think. Most steering mechanisms are built pretty cheap these days, need a lot of maintenance to keep it like it should be. In the lower priced mowers these days there isn't a lot of difference in build quality between brands seems like.