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6000 ZT S# BBZ6027K002102249 Kohler M# SV840-3012 S# 4003614973 Major bogging when I engage the PTO. Cleaned out the fuel lines, drained some water from the tank and the carburetor bowl. Replace the fuel pump & filter. Got it starting and running way better. When I engaged the blades, 80's of...

Wrong thread. Moved to Bad Boy

Ok. I'm just checking to see if other may have the same luck as I did. It's just a push mower. Was trying to find a part number for one of the cables. It's got a specific cable that works the engine brake. And has a certain molded plastic piece that the cable goes through to attach to the...

Hey folks. I'm looking for a parts diagram for a Poulan/Weed Eater push mower. Model number is HD81486C. The I could be a 1. I've tried both and can't seem to find a diagram online.

I sure miss my two post vehicle lift I had at my other shop. I used certain boards to put push mowers onto and raise them up in just a few seconds. It was a lot easier getting the carbs, blades on and off. It seems a little drastic. But bending over several times a day, takes it toll. It was...

I spent a lot of time trying to figure out ways to cut a customers cost, than I ever did trying to figure out how to charge more. Maybe a lot of us are that way. Which would explain why none of us are millionaires. lol

I had one like that with a Scag spindle R&R. Clearly told him "Most cases" it's any hour labor. Which is correct. Usually to pull, reinstall and test takes about 1 hour. His was a problem. Took me and another fella about 4. I took the loss and only charged him 2hrs. He still complained. But I...

I'm going to build a platform for the shop wench to pick up push mowers. Being on the edge of the shop, I think the handle will stick far enough out the opening to raise it to at least shoulder level. I'm thinking 1X2's will be strong enough for any push mower.

I'm learning. I've pulled thousands of weeds like that. And barely a twinge. I installed by 2500lb ATV wench a few weeks ago. Comes with a long cord with a control switch. I'm loving it.

I'll get back to you guys on this in another day or so. Two days ago, I reached down to pull a weed, (bent at the waist) ended up flat on my face from my back going out again. Took me 20 minutes to get up and get back in the house.

It's only a few months old and not sure about the carb adjustment. If it was a regular 2 cycle, I'd adjust the carb. At 3/4 to WOT, it's strokin hard. But it being a 4 mix, the dealer says that's normal. Only he doesn't understand the what I'm talk about when I say it's strokin. At just shy of...

Where I'm at now, south central Arkansas, it's gravely country. Little tidbits of info like that, and what the others have posted are going to be a lot of help. Thanks. And @StarTech too.

It's hard to say. $135 or somewhere around there. But I'll sharpen all the blades and a few other things while I'm waiting on these bearings to come in.

The ones that came off this deck didn't have the set screw n them. And none of it was black.

$150 per spindle, minus $13 (bearing) or minus $85 (assembly)?

I'm replacing the right side bearings on this Gravely. (fhr205-16SP) Seems everyone wants to just sell the entire spindle assembly. Glad you mentioned there's two different ones on one mower. LMAO.. Now I've got to spend an extra hour making sure I'm looking at the right part & numbers. Looks...

They're right side up. But I may have them turned backwards. Sharp edge down. But on the other side. lol

From your link: "horsepower values are derived at 3600 RPM." As a matter of fact, it states that under all the twins and some singles. So maybe 3600 ain't as bad as it sounds.

According to this, the 875 series is to be ran at 3600 RPM's. But I'm not sure what series this Briggs 44S977-0026G1 is.

something kept bugging me about the way the engine ran on PTO start up. It just sounded a little off. So while turning the idle screw in to get higher RPM's, I got to noticing the springs on the back side of the linkage bracket, At fast idle, the bottle spring (the smaller one) was loose...

3100 RPM (fast idle) is too low for a Briggs V twin?

That's the only thing I can figure too. Also, tomorrow, I may try raising the chute, just to see if I can get a little more air flow. She want to wait til spring for the high lift blades. She likes those gator blade for leaves.

The deck is open. But the chute hangs low to the ground. Like almost touching the grass that's just been mowed.

These kind. Not of sure the brand. I told the customer we could switch to the high lift brands come spring. One thing I did notice, is that the grass chute lays very close to the ground. So that could reduce a lot of upward air flow. But I've never had a customer day the blade (above) did a...

JD D160 Briggs 44S977-0026G1 Customer complains that she's having to go over most of her yard twice. I got it here to the shop and started mowing and she's right. After mowing a few stretches, and it looks almost like when you mow in reverse. So I sharpened the blades, leveled the deck, and...

That's the one. Man it was like a hot knife through butter. And was able to use it ot cut through some pretty thick branches. At least 1" thick. I did the entire pond in probably two hours. It was so thick, and tall, it was over my head. And when I'd cut, say a 2' patch, it would fall over and...

95% of this is that tall grass (4ft) that grows in thick clumps. It's about as big a round as a pencil or maybe your finger. In a big clump, there's probably 30 of them.

I think I've settled on the FS 91. I like the idea of the 4 stroke power. I may be fooling myself. It's the only one they have in stock at the moment. And even though the price as went up, he's still going to give it to me at the price listed on the website. $399.99. Plus the blade. He said...

One of the advantages of having some experience in working on small engines, is knowing what to look for before you buy. Such as the availability of parts for that particular model. Being able to check to see if there's after market parts. Also, maybe having the opportunity to working on one...

Spam?

Update on this mower. I think I mentioned that I told the guy there was still an electrical issue when he picked it up. It wouldn't mow in reverse, even with the switch on reverse and the button pushed. Customer told me not to worry about it. He didn't want to put any more money into it. Two...

There could be a governor issue. But you're getting decent RPMs There's no noticeable smoke when it bogs down?

Did this start before you cleaned the carb?

Without knowing what exactly is wrong with each one, giving you a price would only be a guess. The 10523, I would say if it's not running, maybe $25. The 22261, someone on Ebay is trying to sell one of these as a collectible for over $500. I wish him luck. He's looking for a needle in a haystack.

Confused? Totally. But not for long. The details in all of this will make perfect sense once the part numbers and description of the parts start matching up with what's supposed to be in place. Like a puzzle that starts coming together. Thanks man.

No. I'm talking about those gas cans. Plastic gas cans you buy at Walmart, with that safety nozzle.

Yes, that one. After I pulled it out, the PTO would engage and turn the blades (via the PTO switch). I mowed for about 20 minutes afterwards. But like I said, with this connector removed from the seat switch harness, now if I take my weight off the seat, it kills the engine. (connecter plate...

Ok, I'll see what that does. If the relay is bad, why does the PTO now kick on turns the blades fine (since I removed the connector plate from the seat switch)?

Ok, I'm completely lost now. Installed the new clutch and still nothing. I pulled the flat plate out of the seat safety connection and the started working. Here's the kicker(s) With the seat safety switch connection plate pulled out, if the PTO is on, and I get up off the seat, the engine...

Oh, I see what you're talking about. No, I didn't get any pics of that. I'm pretty sure now that it's one of those safety things on a gas can.

I did take and post a couple of pictures. And I'm almost positive now that it's one of those safety things in the new gas cans. No holes, rubber O ring. No reason for this to be part of a Gravely fuel tank.

It may be some contraption that goes inside one of these new safety nozzles.

I just replaced this carburetor and fuel filter a couple of months ago. Was mowing when the Kawasaki started acting up. So I removed the fuel solenoid and let the fuel drain into a clean container. There was a lot of rusty colored specs. So I removed the float bowl and is was an 1/16" thick with...

This could be a nice mower. Fairly low hours on it. It's oily from easily repaired oil leaks. In fact, I was almost hoping he'd balk at the price of the new clutch and just say "keep it." But he mentioned something about picking it up, so I gave him a price on an aftermarket clutch. He went...

You're backed up two years? Did you ever think about getting some help? lol

Thanks man, this ones for you.

Yes sir. I did the diagnostic, told him it was the the key switch, and the cost. Then called him back and told him the PTO wasn't coming on, and if he wanted me to diagnose it. He agreed. Then called him back about some other minor something or other, he agreed. But then said, Just call me when...

When I pull the switch, the voltage through the PTO harness jumps up to about 14v. I get that on both wires with the multimeter grounded to the engine. The PTO doesn't click.

Solenoid bolts don't go through the deck. I'm guessing you mean the bottom of the frame.

So far so good on the new key switch. I've never heard of a bad key switch causing this. It makes me think I'm overlooking something. But if it wasn't the key switch, I feel like I would've already blown another fuse. When you say "contributing" to the problem, I get worried.