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Also, your compression release may not be working. That IS an internal problem.

Hydro locked. Remove the spark plug and tilt the mower to see if any liquid will run out.

Fuel injection? On a diesel, yes, but not electronic. As long as they're fed clean fuel, the MTBF is way up there. Almost bulletproof. On a small gas engine? I hope to make it through all my mowing days without ever owning one. On a chain saw?? I wouldn't take one if they paid me.

Remove the spark plug, Squeeze the handle that releases the blade brake and pull the starter rope; the engine should rotate easily. If it doesn't, either the blade brake isn't releasing or you have internal engine problems. I doubt that you have internal engine problems if it was running when...

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Is it possible to get the air out of a hydro if you can't open the vent plug? I've got about 3 1/8th quarts in now; book says it should take four quarts to fill both hydros to the vent plugs. Wonder if that's enough to proceed to the bleed process?

Lazarus rises from the dead after being asleep since 2010. But now that he's back among us, here's what I do. For mower blades I usually use a 12" (about 16 1/2" OAL) Nicholson file and balance with a high-fallootin' Italian balancer. If I'm really lazy, I use a cheap angle grinder with a 4"...

Just for grins, re-inflate the left tire to 28 psi, go mow, and see if the cut looks better. If it does, you've verified the culprit. Your owner's manual should tell you how to level the deck left to right. It will also give you the pitch of the deck, fore to aft.

If your zero turn (like mine) has no suspension, only three tires will make contact on rough ground. If the one that isn't making contact is a drive wheel, there you sit, wheel spinning. That's how I ended up with the zero turn I have--the previous owner was mowing rough ground and said it had...

Trying to change the oil and filters. I got a lot more oil out than I've put back in. The sketchy info in the owner's manual says to remove (or was it loosen?) the vent plug (see illustration) but there is no callout in the illustration. All kinds of info about how to dispose of the filters...

Most engines now have compression releases which reduce compression at cranking rpms. Beside that, 110 psi is enough for an engine to start and run. If it's still under warranty, let them fix it.

Another member had the same problem recently. In his case, the problem was a dirty fuel tank causing a blocked fuel line. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/repair-kubota.58520/page-7#post-359670

I have not seen the yellow bar this week.

I've got an FR730V that uses that method, too. But I just take note of how much higher the oil is on the dipstick when it's correctly filled and use that. I don't like their way of checking oil. I always check it cold, too.

I had a truck with a full bypass centrifugal filter. The only 'media' it had was a cardboard liner for the rotating drum. It wasn't necessary to use the liner, it just made cleaning a lot easier. I don't know how fast it spun but it took a couple minutes for it to spin down after shutdown.

In 1970, a Cub Cadet with 10 hp Kohler engine and 42" deck cost $1070. A Ford F100 pickup with 360 V8 and auto transmission was $3100. Both were American made. The old saying "You get what you pay for" generally holds true. Compare the ratio of auto cost to mower cost today. Good, high...

You're blowing in the wrong direction. Disconnect the fuel line at the filter and blow INTO the tank with very low pressure air, such as cupping your hands around the tank fill opening and blowing with your mouth. You should get a flow of fuel if the line isn't clogged. Be prepared to hook...

Most installations which have maintenance minder devices have a reset feature. Have you done that? Check in your owner's manual.

A clogged air filter causes a rich mixture. Rich mixtures run cooler than a normal or lean mixture and will blacken spark plug electrodes. Oil consumption will also leave black residue on spark plugs but it will have a wetter appearance than the carbon deposits left by a rich mixture. Only...

The newer one with fewer hours SOUNDS better. But without seeing both of them in person, I couldn't make a recommendation.

I don't think that top hole is a fill hole. The lowest hole will be the drain hole. The next hole up will be the fill hole. Fill to the bottom of this hole.

An improvement I'd suggest to the MZ-T is to make the front axle pivot. That would help with traction. I have a 1984 Toro push mower with the cast aluminum deck and Suzuki 2-cycle engine. I'd buy another one of those in a heartbeat.

I have a Woods rear mount mower that collects a lot of grass under the belt covers. It's six nuts and washers to take off all three and then blow the clippings out with a leaf blower. On a yard tractor, you'll probably have less work than that to remove the pulley/belt covers and blow it out...

Once you've used a torque wrench a couple times to tighten a nut to 36 to 43 ft-lb, you won't need it again. Your arm will tell you. So don't waste your money on a good one unless you've got other uses for it.

This is bad advice. Don't pay any attention to this guy. CHANGE the oil, making sure you refill with the correct quantity, then mow some more with it.

Drain the oil back to the correct level and mow some more with it. What do you have to lose?

Only two ways for oil to get out of the engine--leaks or the exhaust. I don't see how it could use that much oil and not smoke unless it's leaking. The spark plug should tell you if the oil is going out the exhaust.

Those aren't lubricating qualities.

What's your spark plug look like?

I would think 2 stroke oil would have the fewest demands placed on it of any oil. It's job is to lube the crank bearing and cylinder walls for one revolution. Then it's replaced by new oil.

Not going to argue with you. Use what you like.

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Between me and my Dad, we've owned three Cub Cadets over the years. I still have #3, but I wouldn't buy a new one. I don't think they're as good as they used to be.

Better check the oil level, too. If it sat for an hour without any needle valve in it, that gas had to go somewhere.

Go get some more bourbon. It may start when you get back. I think hot start issues are mostly spark related. I've had mowers that, once started, you'd better finish the job because they would not start again until they cooled off. I never bothered to trace the problem because they would...

I haven't seen any blade bolts that weren't right hand threads, meaning you tighten them by turning clockwise as you face the bolt. To loosen, turn them counter clockwise.

Don't mess with the air filter until it needs to be replaced. Believe it or not, the dirtier they get, pleated paper filters do a better job of filtering. If you don't have a restriction indicator (aka 'Filter Minder') installed, follow the manufacturer's recommendation for replacement. But...

There are only two things a diesel needs to make full power--fuel and air. How's the air filter?

Is the 722D a diesel? If so, when was the last time you replaced the fuel filter?

Another little known fuel fact: Higher octane fuel has a lower specific gravity than lower octane fuels. Who cares? Probably nobody but that means you're paying more to get fewer BTU's per gallon. Simply put, if your engine doesn't require it, you'll burn more of that expensive fuel to do...

Correct, higher octane will not improve performance unless the compression ratio of the engine is high enough to require it. But higher octane fuels generally have different additives, such as the quantity of detergent in the higher priced fuels.

Hard to do when you're on a motorcycle that needs Premium. It would be interesting to know just how much of the previous grade of fuel you get when switching from regular to premium.

Agree 100%.

Welcome to the forum. How does this translate to reciprocating engines?

Can you see in the tank to tell if there is any contamination in there? After reading about the problems that person had with the gas powered Kubota Zero Turn, I would make sure the tank doesn't have any debris in it. All the symptoms point to fuel starvation. I don't know how much trouble...

Did that tube have any kind of a screen on it?

Here's the thread: https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/solved-kommander-zt-fuel-problems-sputtering-stalling-etc.47223/#post-359422 Look at the debris in that tube. Yours may have a similar fuel pickup. I won't be around until late afternoon if you have questions but there are plenty of...