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PTO looks like it connects to a piece of plate steel that sits in between the engine and PTO. I have been looking for the part it attaches too since I posted the other info. Picture of PTO break down.

Put throttle in slowest position. Then loosen bolt circled in red and pull cable circled in green, back till it will not go any further. Then tighten bolt circled in red.

I have purchased many of these(pieces not the kit) with good results most of the time.

Seeing this for a few years around here. Same concept.

Toro Z Master 320 Model Number 74181 Serial 890599 I have a weird to me problem. When I go forward, left, right, or reverse when I pull the handles back to neutral the mower keeps going the same direction until I move the levers to the opposite direction it was going. If I do it correctly it...

One of the connection points is circled in red. You should be looking for a connection that stays out of the belt path and would be like the connection I circled in yellow.

When the machine needs to be moved without starting the engine, use the bypass valves: NOTE: The bypass valves must be fully turned clockwise (closed) during normal vehicle operation. 1. Lock park brake. 2. Raise operator’s seat. 3. Turn bypass valves (A) on both sides of pump 1/4 - 1/2 turn...

Mustang II Ok so my picture is of the only one that looked good but that is what it is.

Check the bracket I have circled in red. I think it might be disconnected.

Forgot to post this as well.

Here is the part you need. https://www.amazon.com/MTD-987-02516A-Hinged-Mulch-Assembly/dp/B00DEJPQFS This is what it looks like on the mower.

IT is one of the 3 prong thing but really big. I put a nut that will fit on the axel so it will get messed up instead of your axel. You can also use this type of puller but they break easier.

It has a Snap Ring you have to remove. Then use PBlaster or any other penetrating oil that is not WD40. Then a puller. The last hub I pulled required an 8-ton puller.

Like I said in my post above I removed both units at the same time. I left the wheels on and rolled it out from under the mower then drained and filled. Purging is done when you have put everything back together. 1. Raise rear wheels off ground. Brace with jack stands. 2. Pull bypass valves so...

You have the Hydro-Gear EZT ZT2200 transmission. It is called non-serviceable by Hustler and other. B.S. Here is the repair manual.http://www.hydro-gear.com/15f8b96e9b_sites/hydro-gear.com/files/ezt-_zt-2100-2200_.pdf It was designed to use 20w50 Castrol motor oil. Any 20w50 can be used. You can...

See if this helps. Then clean the carb better. You may need an ultrasonic cleaner.

What I circled in red should go through something like what I circled in green.

I would suggest you upgrade your bearings to this style of bearing if at all possible. Most are greaseable. http://www.usabearingsandbelts.com/ is a great resource and normally half the price of others. They are called 2-Bolt Flange Bearing Unit-UCFL

Hidden nut alert. Look at the image attached. 2 hidden nuts to remove and then the fuel lines and it comes out.

Circled in red is what I think it could be. Also the reset switch circled in green.

I have not received any e-mails for at least 2 days now. What is going on?

Lawn Tractor Blade Idler Spring Part #: 732-04280A

This looks like the logical placement to me.

I found a diagram that shows where it goes.

Im showing the idler pulley goes on the right hand side of belt. Where it is now is the left. So pull it way over and towards the front of the mower.

I would say you mounted the belt wrong just guessing. No picture from you to compare so I will upload a picture of the routing.

Here is what I have created for this.

Click on picture to get full size.

This is a picture of how a starter relay works. Circled in Red = Batter voltage all the time. Circled in Purple= Battery voltage when the key is in the start position. Circled in Green = Ground. This one can be different. Some mowers this is ground all the time. Some mowers it is switched with...

What I circled in red should ride on the pulley when blades are off.

I marked in red where one spring goes and circled in red the spring I think goes there. The other spring is way too clean to belong on a mower in my opinion.

Part numbers M110142 and M110216 circled in red.

See attached picture for what is needed. Washers are not used at all.

Ok so how a solenoid works. I do not know which one you have so I am adding both pictures. Red circle is hot all the time. Purple circle is hot with key in start position. Green circle is ground.

Look at this diagram of your trans axel and make sure everything is in place and you did not drop something.

What I circled in red slides through the slot it does not hook.

I sharpen my blades every day after mowing. I have a few sets and keep one sharp one in my truck and one in my garage and sharpen after the end of day. Takes about 10 min to swap sharp blades then sharpen the old ones. I use and angle grinder with a flapper attached.

Yes but the belt should be running on the metal pulley under the plastic fan. the plastic fan connects to the top of the pulley and does nothing except go around in circles when the pulley is spun. Like I said no belt should touch that plastic fan.

If this is you deck what I circled in red it the adjuster. Belts do not stretch they wear down on the V till they bottom out on the pulleys. if your belt is bottoming out no amount of tightening will fix your problem.

I would drill and tap what I have circled in red on the picture then run bolts in them to push on the back cover. With that being said I would really want some sort of metal to push against because the cact metal of the back cove would break easy.

Number 4 will have to be removed and maybe number 12 as well. They are torq bit bolts. Circled in red are the bolts. They are in 2 to 3 inch holes.

Engine number can be found here with plastic cover removed.

One simple thing about mowers that the manual you are reading assumes and it should not it the belt rides in the v pulleys and behind the idler pulleys. So when routing the v of the belt always is in the v grove and then the idler pulley gets the back of the belt. So if when you are putting the...

Serial number we normally don't need but some time we do as a part change through the year will be noted in the serial number. Craftsman does not mke its own mowers so we need the model number to tell who actually produced it. By the way you have a Husqvarna. MTD also produces for Craftsman. I...

It is an Eaton drive. Kind of like the EZT except they have fluid tanks on them just behind the pulley.

I accidently put one together 5 time the wrong way so here is a diagram just to make sure you are putting it back together correctly.

What part number is broken?

With a tools like this you should be able to measure now.