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A little oil weeping around the governor shaft is normal, a lot suggests a plugged breather or excessive blowby due to worn rings, valves etc. Sharpening the tines will be a challenge, they will be high quality spring steel.

I would not take the chance, you could be in deep doo doo if it fails.

Sounds like it is flooding.Do you get a spray of gas if you remove the spark plug and pull the cord?

X2 That was caused by overheating. The cooling fins need to be cleared of debris at least once per season, more often in dry dusty conditions.

Did you check the oil level? It may be contaminated with gas indicating a carburetor problem.

If I remember correctly the 341 has a larger footprint. There are also two styles of oil pan that are not interchangeable. Get the tape measure out.

Either the bolt is too soft or it was overtightened.

So what did you find? It may help someone else.

I used a BX2670 for three seasons until I was forced to move. It was a very well built machine and easy to operate. The loader was good for moving snow but not so much for landscaping, the machine didn't have the power or weight needed to pick up sand or soil. Too small for the job. Local dealer...

I replaced a couple of blown 9hp on Snapper 28" mowers with 12s, those things would slay thick couch grass over a septic field. Are you trying to cut thick, damp grass? You need to mow frequently to successfully mulch, only take off the top third of the blade.

Those are the reed valves, if they fail it won't run at all. The diapragm if it has one, I believe it does, is in the carburetor itself.

You know it has compression and spark, only thing left is carburetor. What engine? If it has the English Tecumseh good luck finding a diaphragm kit for the Dellorto carb.

The next seies of numbers gives the manufacturing date. For instance 730407 would indicate 1973, fourth month, seventh day. You won't find off the shelf hot rod parts for it. Briggs does or at least did build racing engines but they are only sold through specialized dealers affiliated with...

Very nice! I like it. I worked on Jacobsens in the 70's found them to be a good product. Anybody remember the mowers with the big disc and four blades?

The original post is almost 9 years old, he likely has it resolved by now.

240VAC at 50hz is the European standard, very scarce on this side of the pond. Seems odd a 5kv unit would not have an avr. Does it have capacitors?

104M02-022 is a good number. The inlet needle is not seating probably contaminated. Clean it and the tank, if that doesn't solve the problem replace the carburetor. They are not worth spending time on.

Can you give us the model, type, and code off the valve cover so we can see what you are looking at? Sounds like it is flooding.

There are millions of Briggs engines out there that have given years of trouble free service. Certain series have given their fare share of grief but no reason to condemn the entire line. Other brands have their share too.

Do you frequently run the machine at part throttle as many do? There could be a heavy carbon buildup on the piston. What color was the tip of the old plug?

It is a greens mower for use on golf courses, throws grass tothe front. Obviously repowered, the engine is a lot newer. Jacobsen and others made similar designs, you might be able to adapt something.

It should be stamped into the valve cover. You may also find it on tinwork near the muffler.

Does the engine have the early cam? Briggs changed and supposedly improved the design in 2015.

Stihl is the only place I know of unless aftermarket is available. Do you want to put your name on a repair with questionable parts.

Isn't that the truth! Check with a rental yard

I would remove that valve cover and have a look. I wonder if a rocker stud has backed out.

Where have you been getting your information? Consumer Reports? I take them with a grain of salt. I worked in the power equipment industry for years and have a few observations. Briggs overall is good although some models have their quirks. The ohv verticals will overheat if the cooling fins are...

Go to the product selector then professional trimmers, they are 4-mix except for the FS94R.

That is a mower part so engine numbers won't help.

Check with Briggs and Stratton, they brought those engines into North America for a number of years.

It is starving for fuel. Did you remove the main jet and emulsion tube to clean them?

You can but it won't be a straight drop in as the D-100 has a single cylinder engine. How are your fabrication and wiring skills?

The Predator is nowhere near the engine that he has plus the canted cylinder and lower crank centerline pose installation issues.

A bit of sideplay in the valve is normal and desireable, without it the valve will seize when the engine gets hot. Unless there is a ridge at the top of the cylinder cleanup and rings should buy some time otherwise a new engine is in order. A rebore is possible but cost prohibitive.

Unless you have a lot of time on your hands and patience it should not have been unloaded. He probably wants an exact quote and ready in two days.

IIRC, the spacers go under the fuel tank support bracket, if your engine doesn't have one the just use them with the longer bolts.

It could be pooched, I don't have a lot of confidence in aftermarket engine parts.

I was not aware that the kit has been discontinued. It's all about marketing, horsepower sells. Also blade tip speed regulations mandate a larger displacement engine to do the same job.

OOOPS! 394970 is the correct number. My bad!

The quickest and most effective solution is p/n 398811 Armature, cut the wires going behind the flywheel and install. Cheaper but a little more work is p/n 394670 Magnetron kit.

Your model number is incorrect, the 9 may be a 3.

The wire from the magneto goes to the G terminal on the switch. Red goes to the + side of the battery. Orange will be a switched unregulated ac circuit used to power lights.

Both units have Chinese clone engines.

Which brand has a servicing dealer nearby? IMHO, Toro is the better machine overall, not a fan of MTD.

Make sure everything is available before ordering, I could not find gaskets.

Check your valve clearances, should be .010" on both. If tthe ACR has failed (unlikely) you need a new camshaft.

The shops do not like to rebore aluminum cylinders and for good reason. It is time consuming and the operator needs to know what he is doing. Also make sure the shop follows the engine manufacturers specs, boring a small air cooled to automotive tolerances guarantees an early failure.

I suggest avoiding the aftermarket coils, imho they are not worth the time and aggravation.

None lleft in our area. I did years ago but it is no longer cost effective to rebuild the smaller engines, the local techs have no idea how to do it.

I was looking at a Toro z-turn and am not at all happy with the clone engine, Kohler, Briggs and Stratton and others have spent millions developing and marketing their products only to have an offshore sweatshop produce knockoffs for a fraction of their cost. John Ruskin wrote the bitterness of...