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I do repair work for my local Menard's and our standard procedure for when they get returned to the store is to throw them in the recycle pile to be sold as scrap metal later. I have probably junked over 20 in the last 3-4 years. I use to do more with Pulsar until they sent me correspondence...

A local town to me had damage to both their grade school and high school Saturday morning due to an EF2 tornado. So they will be closed this week so they can reorganize on how to finish out the school year while they make repairs.

Use whatever oil you want to use. You may just have to check the oil level before using the mower, which you should be doing anyway. It won't have enough increase oil consumption,if at all, using multigrade oil over straight 30w to worry about. Unless you are planning on using the mower...

You are overthinking it. Other than the oddball filter that was used on some pushmower engines.. All the Briggs filters are interchangeable with each other.

Check out items 1212 and 1335 from this diagram. Looks like a stud with a nut to hold the housing on. https://www.partstree.com/models/613477-2199-g1-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine/air-guides-rotating-screens-blower-housings-1/

Are you getting battery voltage to the regulator. Because some will not turn on without a certain input voltage.

The clear/white plastic tanks a hot glue gun will stick and seal the leak and gas will not soften it.

Zip tied tanks on MTD products have been used for probably 20 years. Never have come across one were the ties rubbed a hole in the tank. Usually the tank gets brittle and cracks before then.

This should get you started. https://www.partstree.com/models/lt-16-134t676g190-white-outdoor-42-lawn-tractor-1994

Correction on your spec number should be 71343. And it appears you have the Mahle piston which calls for 45 108 11-S rings for .010 over

The actual model and serial number from the tag under the seat would be more helpful to narrow down what you are needed. If missing at least the engine model number info so we can narrow down year, since there is more than one year of manufacturing of that model, and things can change from year...

And don't overlook the click that can occur when the electric pto is engaged. Sometimes can be confused for a different click but will prevent starting.

Probably should go ahead and change both while you are working on it. Not that much more work to do the other head when the engine is already basically torn down.

The SV and KT series are rated by Rehlko at 1500 hours. The CH/CV are rated at 2500+ hours.

Sometimes you have to hold the steel pipe while removing and reinstalling the carb to prevent the pipe from turning.

NPT threads tend to be rough and require thread interference to seal when the threads are basically smashed together. Could try either some pipe dope or teflon tape to see if that fixes the issue.

The lctusa.com website seems to work for me

Actually what I have found over the years is the brake is too tight. The drive belt starts engaging prior to the brakes releasing, which is like holding the brakes on your vehicle, reving the engine and releasing the brakes.

Which is probably the reason the heads got messes up to begin with.

Kohler Command says 160 minimum per Kohler

From my research is appears the model number tag for the mower should of been on that square plate on the side of the frame in his 3rd picture.

The Burr-king are primarily designed for knife making and sharpening. Different models for different purposes. The Oregon blade sharpener version has special design features for setting the grinding angle on the blade as well as the attachment for chainsaw bar rail grinding. The are kind...

I used one of these for years until Oregon changed the wheel material or something and started glazing Went to one of their belt grinders which is the oregon version of the Burr-king 760 with the 1-1/2 width belt x 60 inch.

Have you removed the valve covers to make sure the push rods are still in place and the valves are opening and closing properly. And the piston is moving up and down when the engine cranks.

I have been seeing a surge in that exact air lift cracking. sandblasted groove cut into the air lft the past few years. Seems a lot more common than years past. I don't know what has changed.

I just went and looks and the first franchise was actually in Salt Lake City, UT.

Cinder blocks \concrete building blocks make a good cleaner for grinding disc.

Tiger you are having issues with the grinding wheel glazing. Certain blades are notorious for clogging the grinding grit on the wheel, flap, etc. John Deere blades I have found to be the worse. Back when I was using the big Oregon 12 inch blade grinder, I would have to clean the wheel over...

12+ volts at the battery doesn't mean anything. Need to have it actually load tested. You can have 12 volts at rest and drop to 0 under a load.

Most likely the air intake is under item 50 on the diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/pr-241-961920086-01-poulan-pro-snow-thrower-2014-10/engine-24/ And snow engines don't use an air filter. no reason since if you are blowing snow there is no dust to get sucked into the engine. And...

That was my point. The thread that I posted and you quoted was posted prior to the judge accepting the guilty verdict and pronounced sentence. So was correct at the time of posting, I am not saying it didn't change at a later date, But at the time I posted was correct.

Here you go for more of an explanation https://duckduckgo.com/?q=not+convicted+until+judge+enters+a+ruling+of+guilt&atb=v108-5_b&ia=web

In NY state you are not considered convicted until the judge imposes sentencing. So at the time I wrote the quoted post is was considered true. And there is a good chance it will still be overturned on appeal.

Hasn't been heard from since October https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/bertsmobile1.78633/

Or mutually upset everybody for the same reasons.

To me it looks like either something is stuck in the groove of one of the pulleys causing it to bounce or there is a burnt spot on the belt that is thinner than the rest causing the bounce. A third option is there is a damaged pulley that is causing the bounce.

So I did the Napa belt crossover for the OEM belts for the OP and all 3 napa belts are slightly the wrong length and 2 are the wrong cut angle

Had a customer that had one. Vertical shaft Briggs engine, 2 large spoke rear wheels and a single wheel in the center front. Probably one of the easier pushing mowers around.

There is a story behind my MST. Back in 2001 when I first became a Briggs dealer my area rep for Briggs was an A--. So his remarks to me was I don't know when I will be able to get you set up for the 4 day Briggs factory school, but if you take the MST test and pass it you will be exempt from...

I am surprised he can even order that many. I just tried to order one from my Poulan\Husqvarna parts distributor and got the notice can only be drop shipped from Husqvarna with a max of 2 per order per year. It also appears that is the same part number they have always used which is the 21...

Actually the fuel solenoid doesn't shutoff the fuel coming into the carb. It only is to shutoff the fuel that is being drawn through the carb jets when shutoff. So if the float valve fails it will still fill the crankcase with gas, fuel solenoid or not. And that includes any small engine...

@Old_Paint If you had seen some of the things they do to portable generators as far as wiring you would be going crazy. How about the electric start generators that don't have a battery charge coil to recharge the battery. The generator comes with a separate battery maintainer that connects...

I am curious of what the compression of the engine is. Marginal compression can cause these symptoms.

That's the one. Seem to remember this one was on a MS361 I think.

I want the positive lead connected between the power side output from the generator and the negative lead connected to the other side of that connector going to the solenoid to check voltage supplied from the windings to the solenoid both for checking for output and that the solenoid isn't open...

The stuff they do sometimes to prevent anybody from adjusting a carb is crazy. From the epoxy filled adjustment screw area to the Stihl I ran into last year that needed adjusted and the caps were secured with blind roll pins.

it looks like from briggs the 126T02-0521-B1 gets replaced with the 126L02-1005 but you have to transfer the flywheel from the original engine to the new engine and remove the 691921 rope starter and 694849 crankshaft from the replacement engine and install the 392259 rope starter and 694478...

I haven't seen the high/low transaxle setup in years. The late 90's, early 00's garden tractors from MTD (Cub Cadet, Yardman) had that setup. They referred to it as the 14 speed. You had the high/low differential with a 7 speed CVT selector. So basically translated to a 14 forward 2 reverse.

Nobody would care if it is bypassed or not, but do keep in mind that the way the law is written, Joe Schmoe can also be on the hook for fines. The chances of that happening are almost nil, because they will focus more on the OEM, their distributors and dealers not the end user.

Change the oil before running again. Gas in the oil will cause engine damage because it effects lubrication, but the fumes that are released and drawn through the breather system are drawn directly into the engine and will cause a rich running issue, which you are describing.