Search results

I have not had time to work on this again, but I hopefully will soon. I will be tapping half inch and using a bolt. So heres the question..... Given how the impeller is sort of just stuck on there, does it make sense, instead of just cranking the bolt down and hoping it pops free, does it make...

Coarse thread will give me bigger threads to push wish, BUT fine threads will give me MORE threads to push with. And yes I believe it is aluminum.

I thought about penatrating oil, but I don't think theres any way to actually get it near the contact zone the way this thing is assembled. You'd have to spray it on the shaft, above the impeller blade. Basically you'll have to remove it to be able to access it to spray oil on it, so that you...

Does anyone have any thoughts on whether I should go with the coarse threading or fine threading on the new 1/2" hole and bolt? I think the options are 1/2"-13 and 1/2"-20.

We'll never know for sure if the original threads were damaged or ok (they looked good to me in person). But they're definitely damaged now! as they sit in a pile of dirt on my floor.

WELP, this didn't work out so well. I tapped the hole, then put in my spacer to push against, and then my 7/16" bolt and once it got snug, I started tightening it down and instead of popping the impeller off, it stripped the hole right out! So yeah at this point, I'm kind of wishing I had just...

NAPA had the tap for $4.50 and I am now the proud owner of it. However if I start messing with this now, its going to turn into a whole huge thing, so I'm going to wait until the end of the week. I did VERY briefly play around with hand threading it in, and strangely the bolt goes in a lot...

Tonight I took an imprint of the threads in the hole with some hot glue, and when I held it up to the bolt (7/16-20) I was very surprised that it lined up perfectly! It looks like its a little off on the left edge but thats just an optical illusion due to camera angle. It really was a perfectly...

Yeah thats what I'm thinking at this point. I don't do thread tapping very often so I'm trying to decide how much of an investment in taps to make. I can just get an individual tap or I can get a whole SAE set or I can get a whole combo SAE & metric set. Decisions decisions. Next weekend I...

Hmm well maybe I'll try my crayon thing and see if the threads are close, or way off, and go from there.

I don't own a tap kit, I've been asking around to borrow one but coming up empty so i'll probalby go buy a HF kit after the holidays. I also had the idea of getting a stick of hot glue or a crayon, an slightly melting it into the threads. The once it cools, popping it off and then comparing...

Please see the previous 5 posts.

I'm not looking for that, I'm looking for the threading in the impeller itself, that you would use with the removal tool or with the right sized bolt, to remove the impeller.

Are you referring to the removal tool or the bolt that holds the impeller on to the motor?

Hmm I guess I'll have to consider re-tapping the whole, that might be the easiest solution.

My local hardware store has two big isles of all nuts and bolts. But alas, they only had even numbered mm bolts, no 11mm at all. I grabbed a 10mm just to see but it fit right through the hole without engaging the threads at all.

The whole project will be a youtube video some day. I don't have any idea what the camshaft is going to look like, but what I do know is: The camshaft is plastic The engine was running well when I first started it up. It died and had zero compression when I tried to restart it. The compression...

Hmm maybe I'll go pick up an M11-1.25 then and see if that fits any better.

I guess, it could be.

Yeah but what I'm saying is that I can't get this bolt to thread into the initial threads that it is supposed to engage with. Once I can get it to engage, I can throw any old rod in the hole to act as a spacer/pusher so I don't to any damage to the threads on the motor shaft. But I can't do that...

Yeah I don't get it, 7/16-20 is what this bolt is and the threads aren't right at all. YOu have to go through the impeller threads to get to the crankshaft threads so I'm nowhere near those.

I don't need the whole tool. I just need a simple short bolt to thread i to teh impeller. I can use a piece of rod or something else to be the "insert" it pushes against. Plus the reviews on that thing to not look good. And it looks like there are more than one threading these impellers have so...

So I watched a bunch of youtube videos for removing the impeller off my machine. This is so I can ultimately take the motor off and open it up because I think it overheated and melted it's camshaft. But anyway.... Multiple videos say to use a 7/16" - 20 bolt. So I go pick one up and when I go...

Ok maybe finally on to something! I took the valves out, inspected everything. They both seem to have clean rings around them, and they seem to be seating very well into the cylinder head. HOWEVER the intake valve does seem to be a little sticky! I don't know how much stick is "normal" for...

So I finally had time today to take this apart again. I took the head off hoping to find a bad gasket. But sadly, it looked fine. The piston and cylinder walls also looked fine. Of course I couldn't see the state of the piston ring from here, it looks like I'd have to remove the motor and take...

How would a bad head gasket cause blow by out of the crank vent? Wouldn't the hot gasses still have to get by the piston rings to get in to the crank case?

Ok I played around today. Held the throttle in various positions. It still misfired but I guess the RPMs were a bit more steady. The throttle is SO touchy and of course its an engine so it's vibrating, so its not easy to hold it perfectly still but I did the most I could. Then I fully closed...

No road rash, only severe bruising. Still a bad day biking beats a good day in a cubicle.

Choking down didn't seem to affect the RPMs but I feel like it did smooth out the misfiring a bit. It's hard to tell, and none of it is picked up on the camera. But I don't know, it did feel a little smoother. Ill try that with the choke and see what I get. "throttle plate slash linkage" . ...

So I have been thinking that the misfiring (again, the misfiring that you really can't hear on these videos but is definitely there) was causing the changes in RPM. But maybe the problem is all governor related, and maybe its the opposite, the changes in RPM are causing the slight misfires...

So I played with it a little today. I have video/pics I can post tomorrow, but right now I'll just try to describe it: Theres a lever for the choke that you can push, which will only give you a partial choke when you push it all the way. When you do, I *think* it misfires less. The RPMs are...

Here is a video of me mowing with the machine the other day. On video it sounds perfect because, like I say every time I post a video, the mic doesn't pic up the misfiring, and it misfires about once per second. It's probably "good enough" at this point, but I'd really love to get it running...

Yeah its misfiring about once every second or so, but the mic on my phone doesn't really pick up the miss. It works well, it cuts well. I don't have any SUPER thick grass but in the thickest grass I have, its good. I did try partially covering the intake last time I used it, it had no effect on...

Flywheel key looks great, nothing deformed or bent, everything looks just like it should. Which you'd expect, the machines not that old, it definitely was still on it's original blade and aside from lots of rust and flaking paint, there was no damage to the blade suggesting it hit something...

Ok I just replaced the ignition coil and still NO change in behavior. So to recap, I have: cleaned the carburetor 3 times replaced the fuel line cleaned the fuel tank confirmed the tank vent is clear replaced the spark plug replaced the ignition coil put in fresh gas and oil gapped the valves...

Ok I'm finally getting back to this. I'm not sure how I found the parts list above because I can't get any results from jacks except parts lists for the body. I can't find a parts list/breakdown for the motor. I'm going to assume the camshaft is melted and needs to be replaced. I do know my...

I don't understand this. Aren't both valves fully closed for the entire compression stroke and then the entire power stroke? Or at least almost all of both of those strokes?

Does the engine HAVE to be at top dead center to adjust the valve/rockers? Or can the engine be anywhere in the cycle as long as its a point where both valves are fully closed?

Yes, and I've also confirmed that the vent (which is not part of the cap) is open. No change. I mowed my lawn with the machine again today and the dying problem seems to have been solved by the last thorough fuel system clean-out. So now its just the misfiring, I'm leaning towards bad coil at...

Ok update time. I unplugged the coil's ground line and started it up, no change in behavior. While I was at it, I also fully removed the muffler and started it up, just in case it was clogged internally in a way I couldn't see, no change in behavior. Except people a mile away could hear what I...

Ok I found the ground wire for the coil and unplugged it. I put a little electrical tape on the coil side connector to make sure it doesn't try to arc over to the engine block. And I taped the wire to the plastic body of the mower so I don't loose it or melt it on the muffler. Its too late at...

Where is this kill wire?

The whole point of this project was to make a video where I fix up this machine and sell it. But I really don't want to sell a mower that I'm not confident is working properly. So I'm not really sure what I'll do at this point. I have my own much nicer mower, I have no need or desire to keep...

This is really starting to drive me nuts. After cleaning the carb as thoroughly as I can, including soaking the jet in carb cleaner for a few minutes, then spraying out both ends of every hole with the stuff, and after cleaning the tank with soapy water for an hour, I let the machine sit for a...

This has been an ongoing saga, I've already done all of those things at this point. Except testing compression, I still don't have a gauge. The machine isn't in that bad of shape probably because it's only 6 years old.

Last night, I took the tank and carb off again. I soaked the jet in carb cleaner, then sprayed out all the holes and all of the bowl and body of the carb again. Then I put hot water and some dish soap in the tank and shook it vigorously. Repeat a bunch of times. Then flush with tap water for a...

The rocker issue was just because I took the engine over off and didn't realize that removed the pressure holding the rocker on to the rods. So I'm just going to drain the fuel tank again, remove and clean the carb again, and see what happens. The fuel tank looked plenty clean to me, but maybe...

I haven't had time to even try to start this machine yet. But I was sitting around yesterday and I realized that the rocker would have fallen off when I took the engine cover off. Meaning the rocker isn't the problem and I fully expect this thing to run like crap again once I try to start it up...

Another thing I don't udnerstand. I was able to pull the cord and get the machine to fire a few times before it died again. If the intake vale is stuck closed because the rocker isn't touching it, how was the engine able to run at all? That doesn't make sense to me?

So it felt like the set screws had loosened up a lot, even though I had tightened them good and snug with my T10. I re-tighten them after I readjusted them, squeezing as hard as I could with my T10 driver but no luck. Is there a trick to this? The first T10 (bit) I used snapped when I was trying...