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Typically valve seals. Typically rings. Cylinder has no oil control. Either oil rings are seized to the piston or they are not sealing. Time for a rebuild or replace. Okay I got to do it. Or try this.

Um, something to think about. You can see with your human eyes, passed the filter media. What do you think will happen over time? Worst filter on the market. If this is a daily driver or something you are planning to keep and drive, think about it. If this is some race car then by all...

Um, something to think about. You can see with your human eyes, passed the filter media. What do you think will happen over time? Worst filter on the market. If this is a daily driver or something you are planning to keep and drive, think about it. If this is some race car then by all...

If you can't find the air filter, make one. Arts and crafts store or a mattress shop. Maybe get some foam of the same or similar density? Little hi tack 2 stroke air filter oil or SAE 30w. You have to get drastic in stopping grit and sand/dirt from getting into the engine. Some company says not...

Yup, all electrical circuits require full amperage load testing. You can gap an old plug to 1/4" as well. Ground the plug body and spin the engine.

Amen to that. How about some clean cooling fins while you are spring cleaning that little fella'.

Blown head gasket/s.

It will catch up to you, like now. I use Stabil year round with E-0 fuel. Never a fuel related issue. Carb is plugged. Fuel tank could be full of grit, bugs, grass, leaves, dirt dobbers and toe nails. Trash in the tank will pass to the carb. Water in the tank does the same. You already know...

Glad to hear she is running. Don't cheap out like I did on the rear boots. I bought some gray plastic like boots for my RER. Lasted like 2 months till they cracked. Recommend buying OEM Snapper real deal rubber black boots. What type of grease did you use? Snapper 00 grade is what goes in...

Jack the side of the mower up, rim in the air. Tire tools are very helpful. Soapy water in a spray bottle too. If you remove the rim, you still have to hold the rim to battle the tire/tube off. Leave it on if you can. Some mower tires are a struggle to use a clean word. Or pull the rim and take...

Stolen from an Austin Powers movie. Classic!!!

He has 200+ years of bloat to trim through. I would think he would need the entire US military to assist him. Every bill that comes up is full of bloat.

Sounds like it. Burn off the tank fumes inside the carb.

That's the one. I buy the gallon jugs. Run it in everything 4 stroke. Runs really clean too.

Cha' ching! We have a winner! I'd love to find some SAE 40w that isn't over priced.

Yes, all day long. Wallyworld SAE 30w SG rated, full of zddp.

Try google first or youtube. If you lack the wrenching jumbo, call a mower shop.

Not all of us are English scholars. Let's relax on those that are not as fortunate.

Amen brother. We got rid of all ours several years ago. Got tired of the yearly pruning at $3500 before covid pricing. Not to mention the last guy in office prices. Also the plumbers calls after hours when the drain gets clogged from the roots under the slab. A couple of those ain't cheap...

(y)

Good catch here. Fuel expands when hot as well.....

Flywheel key.

Plastic weld it. Very simple. Can use a simple soldering iron and zip ties for rod. They make plastic welding kits you can get for cheap. I've repaired several trimmers and two backpack blower tanks. Have fuel in them year round for what 5 plus years now. No leaks so far. Got tired of buying new...

With good prep, lapped parts, new head gasket and hi tack spray, I've never had an Intek Briggs toss the head gasket again. Normally, knock on wood, a permanent repair. Again it's all in the prep.

I don't use feelers. Just lap the head and the block area with a small sheet of plate glass. The block area doesn't come out perfect but way better than what it was. Just lap it till you see the material flatten out best as you can. Small figure 8 swipes. Let the sanding paper do ALL THE WORK...

Is your fuel filter on backwards? Look for an arrow on the body.

You know those are abrasive right? You are cleaning aluminum parts. Scrapping or sanding is your last resort. Lacquer thinner, glass cleaner and such are good to start off with. Razor blades and such, huge no-no.

When you remove a head, you must lap the head and block area where the head sits. It's all in the prep. You don't clean the area and toss on a new gasket. Every head I've pulled from 2hp to say 22hp, all were warped. 220, 400 and 800 grit on the garage door window. Let the paper do the work. No...

Riders and 0-turns are already excessively heavy that they all, rut the turf badly. Soil compaction to the max. I typically push mow all the time. When I break out the rider just to use her, I can tell the ground is more compacted after one rider mow. And I have a Snapper rear engine rider that...

Got to have some choke for cold starts.

If you guys are worried about wasting oil, drain it in a coffee filter and pour it back in. Again we are talking 18 ounces of oil per oil dump. Do "something" to get the metal out. Go to wallymart and get a gallon of SAE 30W oil. All of what 13 bucks? You have to get the metal out of the...

Oh and welcome to the forum.

It's not an hourly time period. Has zero to do with time. Has everything to do with removing the break-in metals from the oil sump. This is a push mower engine. It holds what 18 ounces of oil? What 2 bucks per oil dump?

Remember those parts being the end cap and the drain tube look to be steel. Engine block is aluminum. Don't try to mega torque the tube into the block. I agree some pipe dope should seal her up. No need for massive torque here.

Go open the hood of any heavy duty 18 wheeler truck. Count filters and "gallons" of oil required. Report back here with your findings. We both know, any non turbo Diesel is a dog. Sounds like we've driven them both. You also agreed with my statement on the lack of zip with them. Agree. Also...

Just asking why would you want a Diesel? Every one must be turbocharged. Try and run one without a turbo. Remember the old 240 D Benz Diesels. What a total dog. Course you couldn't kill those engines with a bucket of sand in the oil sump. My opinion, Diesel torque ratings, you divide by 2 to...

Home Depot, Lowes and many more will have rivets in several material types as well.

Yup, steel screws in aluminum parts. Dissimilar metals....... Glob on some anti-seize when you get them out. Carb bowl screws. Dope them up when you clean a carb. Much easier to remove for the next guy. Blade retaining bolts.

Get you an I-Fix-It-Kit. They have a ton of precision ground bits in all kind of unique sizes.

Bent blade.

See above this post.

How about 1.air 2.fuel 3.compression 4.spark, at the correct time.

Heli-coil or retap yours. Little pipe dope should keep her dry. Might have to flip the engine over to keep metal chips near the plug opening. Going to make a mess. 1/2" or 3/4" impact?

If it's air cooled, clean the cooling fins. See if the error goes away.

Were the valves fully closed when you tested for compression? Most of the time people use a small or big block engine compression tester on outdoor power equipment. Most have a super long hose. Gives low readings on OPE. I would pull the piston and free the rings. Put her back together and...

Let's keep it slow with the replacement parts ideas until she is fully tested. Air, fuel, spark at the right time and compression is what she needs. Find out what you are lacking.

Dur dunt ditl dunt dur dunt dityl dunt. My best Dukes of Hazard horn honk. LOL Thanks for letting us know.

I have NEVER done that......... LOL LOL o_O

My guy, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE!!! (y)

POA is lovely..... LOL Not. Bout like Goosegrass and yellow sedge to name 2. I can kill the sedge in my yard. It will come right back. Guessing the rootball is not getting any herbicide.