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Dirty carb. If you have a good pump, what else is there? Do you have good fuel flow INTO the carb inlet? Will it drain the tank fully at this location? Stop buying parts and test what you have. Most of the time parts are fine.

Clean the fuel tank and replace all of the fuel hoses/filters. Verify you have a solid fuel flow INTO the carb inlet.

Did you pressure test the carb needle/seat? Needs to hold back 7psi for 30 minutes.

Did you get this running?

Do you have a solid flow of fuel AT the carb inlet? Can you drain the fuel tank from/at this same location? Any reductions in flow rate while doing this? Possible tank cap vent?? Trash in the tank and lines. Fuel lines internally deteriorating, clogged filter???? I've never seen a mower engine...

My first thought is trash in the fuel tank. Might flush it out like new. Blow out with compressed air confirming she is spotless. As Bertsmobile1 said, there is clean and there is CLEAN. New fuel lines might be called for. They deteriorate internally and can block flow. Probably a new fuel...

All correct. Keep the engine at roughly 3600rpm at ALL times. This is for MAX engine cooling and lubrication. For the deck it cuts and bags better too. Far as speeds, the transmission driven disk sounds like someone has been messing with it. Jim Jackson has a ton of youtube videos on these RER...

Primer bulbs are cheap. Just replace it. Can you see fuel being squirted into the carb when you prime it? Look into the carb throat and see. Report back.

Check engine bolts for proper torque. Possible carb needle sticking open causing a rich condition adding vibes?? Pull the oil stick and smell for fuel. Report back here.

If you have the larger WI-185cc WR engine, these will work. Looks like the one I used a bit ago. Ebay link is below. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=Carburetor+For+Wisconsin+Robin+WI-185&_sacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_odkw=wisconsin+robin+carburetor&_osacat=0

10w-30 will shear down awful fast in an air cooled engine. Briggs, Kawisaki, Kohler and so on state multi-grade oils will be consumed more compared to a straight 30W. Meaning you will need to check it at every use. I do that anyway with all oils. Use the oil your engine manual says to.

Moisture inside the grass crossing terminals. Good find........

Carb needle sticking open. Clean or replace needle and seat. Please describe this testing procedure. What is fine about it? Cease trying to start it. She is flooded literally with gas. You need to fix the over fueling issue and drain the oil a couple times. JD tech is an idiot. Do not take...

That is a-maz-in'. Bet if you cleaned the old ones and measured the internal resistor if it had one, would of worked. Gap could of been off. Any who, glad to hear she is running.

Did you get this thing running? Never heard back.

And not one visible screw or screw hole. Your FIRED!! My best lame Trump joke. LOL

What is the grass type? Cool and warm season turfs have a different recipe for maintenance.

Good point.

0230 could be mice chewing wires to the pump or wear as Auto Doc's said. Make sure you have battery voltage and a good ground here. 0174 might be from the 0230 code. 0337 could be the sensor or wiring to it. Clean and check main ground and other suspect wiring.

Lucas red is all thickeners. Hardly any oil dropped out at 400F in the video. Thickeners do not lubricate. All they do is thicken. So you are saying back in the day, you saw failed grease? Now you need a higher temp grease? I can see this in a turbine engine (high revs) but a lawn mower? High...

The heat test was at 191C or 375F. Way hotter than any real world usage. If your bearings are running close to 400F, you got other problems than grease. Is the ST grease even rated that high for temp? I see 300F for ST grease. Lucas I see rated at over 500+F. Lucas is just higher temp rated...

You are the first I've heard that buy it. LOL Would love someone to show some real testing that proves any Lucas product is better than say wallymart SuperTech grease. Most of it is hype and sales gimmicks. Not just Lucas products either. What I miss is the old days when you greased...

I'd look a the PTO and the electrical circuit. What code is it throwing? Need to investigate this.

My oil is better than your racing oil.

All NGLI #2 greases are tacky. Not like Lucas doesn't ever move once coated. Nothing but a sales gimmick. Lucas doesn't make one product that stands above any other similar product. Use what you like.

And take pictures.

I would demand a refund or new unit exchange. If the linkage is a foul, what else is?????

Never seen one. Normally need to jet down using a high altitude main. Most of the worn out mowers I get are rich runners with new air filters, choke wide open and clean fuel systems. Do you have mice chewing wires at your house? I would pull the top engine shroud and look around if so.

Failed plugs do happen, but, hardly ever fix anything. Clean yours and check them for spark before pulling the credit card. Hope you didn't get on Scamazon and get plugs. They are highly cloned items (NGK and AC Delco). Go to a real auto parts store.

None of that happens in typical lawn mower engines. Let's keep on track here guys. BTW, I was "joking" about the space shuttle comment RevB. No need to refresh it again. (y) o_O

Normally, those conditions are a clogged fuel delivery component or a failing ignition coil. If you require choke then fuel is at the top of your list. Long shot is the gas cap not venting.

Most overlooked cable ever. Glad you got her running.

OP ghosted us all LOL.

Other guys have good suggestions. Normally when time comes into play, mower dies after 15 mins, trash in the fuel tank. Could be a weak ignition coil getting hot failing. Sounds just as I and the others described.

Definitely not Scamazon nor Fleabay. Several mower parts places on the innerscreen.

Any carb that old the diaphragm probably turned stiff. Full OEM carb rebuild or replace with OEM. Most 2 smoke equipment actually cracks the throttle open with full choke. Read your engine manual and starting procedures.

What a country..... LOL Freaking genius with the paint.

Not like Briggs engines, well, guess they do make racing engines. Going to say they are not high rpm engines with any form of durable valvetrains. More Diesel like compared to gas motors. None are made to last 100,000 miles either like cars do.

Double check your engine numbers. Something has to be off. On some engines, I have to take a red oily shop rag and wipe the numbers. One guy on here I think used latex paint. Showed up like an x-ray machine. Really see the proper numbers after this was done. Forgot who it was or I would of...

Gord Baker said: MAP gas is still obtainable and is much hotter than Propane. Here are the burn temps from Google, propane vs mapp. You will never know the difference with a hundred degree spread.

Mapp gas is long gone. See below straight from Google.

Didn't expect it to, myself. Hope everyone got the idea about poor coil/spark testers. Don't use the inline Christmas bulb type testers. They do not tell the whole story of coil performance.

Here is Taryl's video on spark testers. Explanation starts at 4:04 through 7:07. Fast forward to get to the point.

Stop it with the inferior spark tools LOL. Taryl made a video "showing" all us how a coil can show "visible sparking" with the inline Christmas light types. Would blink at low, med and high revs with the bulb type. Gap type showed spark at low revs, nothing at mid and high revs at all. Weak...

You can hear one good cyl and one trying at times. Might have a valve nearly closed, that is stuck open. Definitely look at ignition and valves/cams. Pop the valve covers and see what you got.

I'm not a brand person. I have this one. I have the moly version of it that is black in color. More than enough for mower spindles.

Or that. Wow. Sorry for the bad luck.

I would say try a different grease. If it is sticky, once the grease is wiped away then you have zero lubrication. Sticky greases do not flow back into the area needing protection. Mobile 1 is simply a lithium grease. Forget all the claims and hype synthetic this and that. They claim such and...

WHAT? They sell multi-thousand dollar yard toys and can't even answer the f'ing phone? That pizzes me off. Wow......

That pic, looks like you are doing it correct. You have it on SE for small engines. You have it a little closed but should see something with a good coil. To me, this mystery spark, no spark is either a bad plug wire or the connector inside the plug boot?? Like the wire itself is not on the...