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Sounds like water in the gas to me. Pull the hose AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water in the bottom. Use E-0 gas if possible.

As high as that port is, must be a vent. The replacement carb pic shows a welch block off plug I think.

Carful the brand and formula used here. Some contain vinegar which as we know is an acid. Will corrode things in short order. Read the ingredients first.

No talk about the cooling fins. All hey let's hammer down the valve guide. What about what caused this to happen in the first place?

I have never pulled a head for ANY reason that wasn't in need of a serious lapping job.

Totally agree. Why, because that Band-Aid repair will not last. People have $1400.00 cell phones and skimp out on mower repairs. Probably have $150,000 worth of cars "laying" on the driveway......... I don't get it.

An oily or lubed bolt requires less final torque than a dry bolt. That being said, that Briggs step #1 ILENGINE posted is news to me. I too need to be more careful about torque values and lube. ESPECIALLY on Inteks which are known to toss head gaskets. Nice find ILENGINE. (y)

Lube the cable or replace it.

Who put sand in the oil sump? You have more issues than one crank bearing surface. Look at all that grit inside on the parts.......... WOW!!! That is a filthy engine.

An oiled plug, rusted in place...... Let that percolate a bit. Meaning they stripped slash cross threaded it.

Either you didn't get to it yet or I was ignored. Holler when you do more testing.

How do you know? Something is causing your lack of fuel issue. Pull the hose off AT the carb inlet. Drain into a glass jar. Should have a gundy pulsing fuel flow if the pump is good. As in making a huge mess. Look for water in the bottom of the jar.

Why do you want or need it to idle down for? OPE (outdoor power equipment) mowers, trimmers and blowers are designed to run at full rpm once you let go of the starting rope or key switch. Most are air cooled. Low rpm means less cooling air being generated, not good. Then there is the...

Feel around the head for air movement. That would work on an external leak. Take a small hose. Hold one end to your ear. Other around the head area. Could smoke test it and see where the smoke goes. Use a car evap machine tester slash smoker.

Or you a shop vac you probably already have for free?

Post it up on youtube. Link it here for us to view. Means a rich condition. Carb needle sticking open or choke not locked open once warm/hot. Pressure test the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30 minutes. Many a youtube video on how to pressure test carb needles. Pull the oil dipstick and smell...

Wish they made the "old" Snappers again. Not the new walmart disposable Snappers of today. Those were the days........

Is this a fixed governed speed engine? That tab where the spring is connected to, in the picture of a picture, is bent over.

T These are not Rolls Royce turbines. Millions of mowers right now are cutting with scored cylinders. That shop should be avoided. Yes and for many a year to come. Remember you must, lap the head and block area, where the gasket sits. Extra commas for importance. De-carbon the piston, valves...

Those McLane edgers are easy flips. Problem is the gas caps down seal anymore due to rust around the cap area. I bought a new Briggs cap and polished the cap area on the tank. Over time the tank warps in this area leading to leaks. The metal thins in this cap area over time.

Trimmers, blowers and well most all outdoor powered gear are meant to run at MAX rpm, all the time. Why? Most are air cooled. The slower you run the engine the less cooling air is generated. Next category is lubrication. Same deal here. Trimmers are meant to be at full song after you pull the...

Taryl debunked the alcohol removes water from gas. So did Chickanic if I recall correctly. Heet is a wallet draining item that does not work. Project Farm I think did a video on this too I think?? Why would you use seafoam, on any engine? Nothing but a solvent with some oil. A new engine...

Post up a video of it running. Aim towards the muffler to capture the smoke.

You know, on all outdoor power equipment or as in mower engines, you must de-carbon the cylinder/s say every 5-7 years? Could be a reason you are down on power. Or are you used to the engine and maybe not cutting enough? Letting the grass get away from you? Possible plug, weak ignition or valve...

SEE, I had car batteries on the brain LOL. Just like Abe did ha-ha.

At least run a zip tie around the poor fitting hose. The old pulsa jet carbs and so on with the pulsing breather hoses. The 90 degree black boots are always loose fitting.

And playing on their phones all day long. Wasting time on MOWER FORUMS, oops like I am right now LOL.

Are you clear on what caused this issue? Lack of valve lash checks or over heated the block, maybe both? Both of these are YEARLY maintenance items in every engine manual out there. Just letting you know this was all preventable.

Great mowers but expensive. What isn't expensive these days?

That is a 2 piece cover is it not? The red cover and the black ventilated grill ? Nothing there is a precision fit. You answered your own question. If you remove the cover it's quiet. No. Over filled is over filled. Keep it ON the full mark, not below and not above. Precise enough for a...

Oil is too heavy to get into the vacuum. Way up on top of the engine so to say.

Fluttering sound starts at 1:12 into the video. I also hear a slight miss. You said if you remove the top plastic cover it doesn't do it. Wonder if the black plastic grill is doing it?

Shop vac on oil fill tube. What's not to like?

I used a cheap food scale to balance my blades. Get it down to 0.01 of a gram.

What I've found is don't buy the cheapest listed priced carb you can find off fleabay or scamazon. Say the lowest listed price is $19.95. Get one that cost $29.95 for example. Since I've started doing this, my good carbs have been way higher in luck for sure. They are a crap shoot. I typically...

Couple things ALL mowers and other outdoor power equipment "require" yearly. If they have valves then they need adjusting yearly. At least checked for proper gap/clearance. Clean the cooling fins. Most of these are air cooled. Do I need to elaborate here? Every 5-8 years, engines need...

New gasket or breather with gasket time, yes.

Dirty starter motor.

That 'll do it. Bend the crank. Vibe city.

Wow.......

That breather cover with the black hose coming out. You see the oil? You have a small leak there. I would say fix the oil leak first. Then scrub away with degreaser and water. It's not the area but the slight oil leak. Not a huge deal.......

Maybe it's time to call a professional lawn crew? Educate yourself more on riding mowers if that is not an option for you.

Sounds okay. Possible grass clippings/mud on the blade throwing the blade out of balance. Flip the deck up and see if you have a wire or lawn trash on the blade. Put a cinder block on the handle to hold the mower up for you. Make a youtube video of this and post it here.

Brush off the bulk. Compressed air, scrub brushes and degreaser as you like. You will see ribbed cooling fins that need cleaned. Search youtube on cleaning mower cooling fins. Lots of videos on this critical yearly maintenance step. This is for ALL small engines that are air cooled. Trimmers...

So the hose going TO the carb is plugged or highly unlikely the carb inlet port is plugged. Carb needle stuck closed????? Pull the carb from the engine. Remove float bowl. Connect fuel line from pump/tank. Should flow into the carb bowl area dripping on the ground. You can test with water if...

That link I sent should work for yours. I forgot about the fuel inlet deal. Sold mine a couple years ago.

And clean the cooling fins and block like a new one.

I bought from Ebay. Don't know which carb you got???? Which engine do you have? 140 or 185cc?

For sure.

No. Why add another point of failure? Fix what you have.