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It's a mower cylinder. Looks brand new to me. Run it till she pukes. You guys need to get drastic on sealing your air filters. I've used the below on all mine so far. Will leave alone till she needs a few extra pulls or cranks. Then pull apart and install a new filter. Never pulled a carb...

Fuse, switch, relay and or maybe some mice chewed wire. Trace it back from the PTO.

Vette's and Porche's just to name 2 are factory filled with group 3 Mobile 1. They are "synthetic". :rolleyes: Ever notice how cheap Mobile 1 is at wallymart? Now price Redline or any real synthetic.

Since I stopped buying the cheapest "China" carb, my luck has drastically improved. Maybe a get what you pay for deal??? Meaning buy a China special that costs say 10-15 buck more than the cheapest.

I install on every mower possible. And a crappy filter if there is room on the line. Got to get drastic with all these fuel related issues.

My oil is better than StarTech's oil. :cool:

Ah maybe yes and no. On the Chinese carbs, I've found you have to open her all up and see if something needs attention. Like float levels and several other differences. Make sure the needle/seat holds at 7psi for 30+ mins. Jets are the same size........ Also don't buy the cheapest Chinese carb...

I tried rebuilding a Nikki with OEM Briggs parts. I failed at it. Bought a Chinese clone of the Briggs single cyl Walbro. Ran like a top.

Go StarTech, go StarTech............. Love it. :D

Agree. The ol' don't use synthetic oil in a new engine is garbage. All oils are formulated to be "roughly" the same for specific vehicles. Also in the USA, printing synthetic on the bottle doesn't mean it's 100% synthetic. Might be ONE item in the add pack that is synthetic and they call the...

Don't think new mowers do that. So normal, would say no. Sounds awful thick. Probably be fine in 100+ F temps. It's only a 20 grade thin oil. Follow what your engine manual states for oil.

An hour meter means zero on lawn equipment. Could of unplugged, stopped working, just installed and several other factors. The main buying word you need to focus on is used.

Bottom line, fix carb needle/seat. Do NOT try running it with fuel diluted oil. Dump oil and filter if it has one. New SAE 30w to the full mark. Pull the carb off. See if fuel is running out of the carb throat. Float, needle and seat should seal off like a toilet. Inverted carb...

What RPM is this happening at? Are you running her at low revs? If you are under 3400 revs, not recommended due to lack of air cooling and lubrication.

All those OEM Briggs parts? If not, every one will require testing. Could have a Chinese carb. Counterfeit plug. Over torqued gasket sealing area. Set valves wrong, IN and should of been EX. Tank needs to be inspected for full flow into a glass jar or fuel can. Any elbows will catch trash and...

Typically the mower will fall apart before the engine. But hey, things happen.

How big is your yard?

Can someone please swap out this server's dial up modem please. Lots of sleepy time going on lately.

Think this comment is about water removal. Either Tarryl or Project Farm proved isopropyl alcohol doesn't remove water from gas. Best to dump it out so you know you got it all out.

The most important items are 1, 2 and 3 that ILENGINE posted. Leave it alone.

Sounds like she is out of oil. Put her on the full mark and nothing less. Underside of deck clean? Definitely sounds mechanical and struggling. Fishing line wrapped around the blade? Something is up. She is struggling for rpm.

Make sure you lap the head and block area where the head sits.

Mid grade is the least used at our pumps. Meaning it will have more water and be stale. Use 87 E-0 if you can get it. Look around when you fill your car what others are using. Best octane is the lowest octane number your engine can run on without knocking. Read your manual.

Yeah what cooling fins........

Amen to that brother. If the internal plug resistor is over say 5k Ohms'ish, red flag.

Welcome for one. Lot of great people on here. Spray your flavor of flammable spray juice into the carb. See it she lights off for a few seconds then dies.

Filling both might be entertaining. Gallon in this one, gal in that one. Lather rinse repeat several times.

NGK plug internal resistors are "roughly" 5k Ohms'ish. 19K seems awful high. Sounds like a possible counterfeit plug.

Could be overheating too.

So nothing is turning slow, without the belt on, and all bearings are quiet? Like a new one internally and it flows OUT like a new one? Do you have a solid fuel flow AT the carb inlet? Will it drain the tank completely into a gas can? Normally, this condition, is a lack of fuel delivery. So...

Best to remove the lower tin shroud that surrounds the cooling fins and clean away. Really need a visual inspection to rule it out. Mice and critters can drag debris in there. And YES they clog up all the time.

THAT is one tank of a mower. Wish they would make these again.

Or this one Rivets? Final answer here. Notice BBC stands for blade brake clutch.

Like this one you mean? Or this one? Maybe this one?

I was diggin' the sheared off rear lug nuts myself. Or is it the picture? Or my eyes LOL.

Bought a couple Snapper Commercial pushers that were exactly like this. Lady said the mower just didn't cut very well...... Took 3 looks at the blade until I spotted the issue. Didn't look right, yup, upside down blade. LOL

Great mower. Too bad the clutch sounds like she is soured. Might see if you can take it apart and clean her up. I have no clue if that is possible. Perfectly good mower and some silly clutch fails. I never buy pushers with blade brakes for this reason. Good luck with it.

Tell him the oil is fine. LOL

Stay away from Deere. Unless you like spending a ton on parts and repairs. They break just as often as others. Why not weld up the deck? Take it to your local vo-tech or high school welding shop. Or have a welder repair it for you. $400-500 is cheaper than a new mower. Remember those older...

Used anti-freeze. The old green sweet style. MMMMMmmmmm

So saving money, is not really, saving money. I get it. (y)

That's right. You are correct. Had to think about that one. Just didn't want any more dirt inside the engine.

On a good set of rings that seal proper, the oil does most of the "final" sealing. Dry cylinders typically result in low readings.

Top picture. Look at all that dirt passed the air filter. This is another reason, why I silicone on a new filter on all my mowers. These cheap filters do NOT seal 100%.

I wish you luck. Most of the time you must lap the heads and block area where the heads sit. Typically they are all nicely warped. Leads to replacing head gaskets again later. Must do even if you pull a head to decarbon the cylinder. Must lap the head and block. It's all in the prep.

Are you sure about that? Are you cutting grass only in a clean room?

Anyone tried looking on the Chinese sites like Ali Express and the like?

Check oil prior to EVERY mow. SAE 30w is your friend. Guys above are hitting on some good ones. Clean cooling fins yearly on every air cooled small engine, not just mowers. Coil right side up? Solid stream of gas reaching the carb? Spotless fuel tank and fresh lines? Backfiring from carb or...

Air Fuel Spark - At the correct time Compression See what you are lacking.