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If it were my saw, I would get rid of it. My Poulan starts Every Time. It is electric and I have long cords.

I agree to the 15psi. for both Rear Tires. Too much sealer can be slippery and it is also possible that the tire Bead has broken or weakened. Unlikely but have you checked the tire Size with the opposite side? Try rotating them from side to side in case you are mowing one way on a slope that...

Flywheel key partially sheared.

I replied once but it didn't stick! I slung a frozen wheel on a Snowblower turned on its' side from a rafter. The weight of the machine is pulling on the axle. Heating and quenching, lots of penetrating oil. Some drill a small hole deep down the interface of axle and wheel for Penetrating oil...

I had one with a frozen wheel. Actually on a Snowblower. I put it on its side frozen wheel up and hung it from a rafter. Heat and penetrating oil, several separate times, then heating only 1 side of the wheel quickly I tossed on a pail of cold water. Heat up again and used hammer and heavy...

Make sure the NEW blades are installed correctly. Check the rotation direction and have cutting edge leading. Blades wear at the ends and yours may be just a bit short if they are old.

Take it to a dealer.

Great Hack. Likely the parts will never arrive. Well Done.

I hope no one is 'over-thinking' this.... The Bronze Oil-lite ™ bushings work well in all applications and are easily replaced and cost effective.

The Shoulder Bolt that helps secure the Rack is on JD models.

I believe that Bolt should have always been there. A Shoulder type bolt on the ones I repaired. Good photos. I believe those Torrington bearings would last a long time and even if dirty would assist steering.

I believe that Bolt should have always been there. A Shoulder type bolt on the ones I repaired. Good photos. I believe those Torrington bearings for king pins would last a long time and even if dirty would assist steering.

Your Rack is badly worn (sharp teeth) and you likely also need a new Sector Gear and Bushing.

Very puzzling. Is your Engine solidly mounted? Spin each Blade Spindle to be sure the bearings are not locking up. Lay a straight edge across the 4 Pulleys and be sure they are at the same height. Be sure that the springloaded arms on Idler pulleys move freely. Oil them if necessary. Be...

Well done Sir. A few photos would be nice.... Asking for a friend.

I recently helped a neighbour with this problem. He had the blades on upside down and the tips hit. I didn't check but the Ends may not be 90°. Don't grind off the cutting tips, grind off the back side end if you decide to go that route. I suspect you have a loose spindle or Blades are not...

It is worth taking apart and carefully see if one brush is stuck in its' holder and not contacting armature. Have a firm grip on the starter when you are testing it!

There is often a Shoulder Bolt there that supports the rack and slides in that slot.

You are on the right track. No need to file and hone blades nor sharpen until every last nick is removed. Check rack and sector of Steering assy.

Blade if Straight can be sharpened. Be sure that is all that is wrong. Check Steering Rack and Sector.

It appears it is coming off the Front (Engine) Pully. Put 'keepers' beside that pulley/clutch.

Align Pulleys, M'f'g'rs Belt. Check all mounting brackets for Trans. Be sure you are going around the Idlers correctly.

You likely have other issues if Ethanol is a problem in 5-7 days. Clean out the entire fuel system including the tank.

Start with the easy stuff. If all the belts appear tight with PTO ON Engine off, then try each spindle by hand to see if it turns easily with PTO OFF, Belt tensioner off. There is a fuse near the soleniod, be sure it is not blown and tabs are clean. Belt tensioner must move easily. Check Belt...

Certain belt sanders have wide adhesive backed grit. Attach a long length to a FLAT piece of Steel and sand ead, rotating it often. Check with light and straight edge. Ditto with flat piece of steel to Block. Are you using OEM gaskets. Torque and sequence are very important. Perhaps try with...

Good eye! Yes the belt is running much lower on the pulley in foreground. Left? Sometimes the shaft that holds the Idler wears and you have to give the strap a bend to align the belt.

Blowing out the Fuel line is also one less thing to suspect. You may have to drill out the jet. Check Governor spring if there is/was one.

I don't know who made Lawn Chief but sounds like it is 50+ years old! You can't even say Chief anymore! Photos of course are required here. With my Solidly mounted 5" Vise, a 24" PIpe wrench and 2' Cheater pipe I was able to bend one close enough to work. Within 1/8". Be aware that the blade...

Don't overthink this. They are all made in the slums of Mumbai. The important thing is to change it yearly.

Duh!

See if you can fit a 6" long 1/8x 1x1 piece of angle iron on it. Drill holes in the angle first, then Drill Frame and bolt, 1 hole at a time.

You could try disconnecting the line that feeds the fuel filter and drain the tank. Then with the Fuel cap off, blow back through that line. Try a different NEW filter. I know you have done all that but try it again. Do you have a Fuel Pump or gravity feed? Try a temporary alternate tank...

If it is new, return it to the Dealer.

Rolls Royce was purchased by BMW in 2003. Ford made millions of vehicles for the Working Man. Not the same market as RR. HD is a quality motorcycle.

There are Deck belts which run the blades and Drive belt which move the machine. I suspect that one or more of your Deck Spindles has seized or the wrong length belt. Your photos seem to show the Deck Belt. The Drive belts is routed along with 2 Idler pulleys. It may appear to be backwards on...

Thanks for your rare Honest Report. Currently I am awaiting like hundreds of others for Side Detection Modules for my GM Acadia. None in North America. It seems everything is cheaped up to the point of useless. Blame offshore inventory. It is not just Lawnmowers.

One other thing to check. IF you have an electrical fuel shutoff Solenoid (JD and Others) make sure you can hear/feel it click when you turn the key to ON. If you cannot, there is a rectangular 10 wire connector a few inches from the Ignition switch. Pry down lock and pull apart. Clean all...

Try some Quick Start spray. Hold Handle tightly. If it fires, it is not a Fuel or Ignition Problem

If your Flywheel Key is in perfect condition try a new spark plug.

You need to remove the Flywheel to properly check the key. Perhaps you just looked at it.

Be sure that you are not pulling back too much on the inside wheel steering arm. I have watched people actually reversing the inside wheel, tearing up turf.

Yes.

Check all electrical connections. You may need to replace Wife.

Quite possibly it needs a Carb Gasket kit. Is the fuel tank beneath the carb?

Remove the Gas Cap and cover opening with a cloth and elastic band. Could be a tank venting issue.

Possibly it is a tank vent or used to scour the VOS from the tank. Epoxy it

There is a rectangular connector very near the Ignition switch. Press safety latch and pull apart. Check for green crustys and spray with Zep Battery Care. REPLACE that fuse even though it looked good. A battery can check for 12VDC but have no Amps. Rare but it happens. Possibly your...

I clean off obvious dirt and make 2 or 3 passes against my coarse Grinding Wheel. Same # for other end and blades. It's not the Space Shuttle as Tarryl would say. A gram or 2 out of balance is no big deal. Tighten carefully after engaging any drive teeth, sharp side Down. Done. Skip OCD.

It would appear that you have a Failure of the Automatic Compression Release (ACR) mechanism. Simply put, it releases some compression during startup. The only cure is to replace the Camshaft to which this is attached to. First, be sure you can obtain a new one From B&S. Aftermarket ones can...