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Often at the back side of the unit there is a tag or stamped number. Have you tried a dealer which may have History on your machine? Do you keep the belt tight in Winter and loosen or remove it in Summer? Cheap belts do not last.

I would try using SAE #30 oil which is thicker viscosity.

Be sure the other end of the rod is connected.

For the amount of money you want to spend and avoiding the most popular brands I recommend you get a lawn service to cut your lawn.

Above all else, get Public Liability Insurance and Incorporate. My advice is from experience running a business in Ontario Canada.

You might want to have a Limited or Incorporated Company which prevents people from suing you and taking your home.

Get a customer base First before you buy a mower and truck.

Stick with what you are using now. You may get many oil leaks changing to Synthetic. 10w30.

Look at the replacement part. Probe the seat area gently with a #3 Crochet hook if it is a soft seat and note which way it goes in. Pull it out and replace. Use correct size drill bit, chuck end to press it gently into place. If it is a metal seat, try to find a Viton tipped needle. Good Luck.

You are correct Shady. In a partially filled tank, the air does not 'come in' overnight. What air is in the tank remains until more contents is used. Ethanol absorbs water in the fuel and condensate and remains at the bottom of the tank with it. Don't totally empty a partially filled...

Condensation does not come from Outside the Tank, but forms on the sides of the INSIDE of the tank from any moisture laden air that is already inside a NONvented tank. Done with this nonsense. Keep your tanks Full and rotate often.

Yes.

Hmmmmmmmmmm. Possibly.

Be careful with the Methanol. It can seize plastic shutoff valves etc.

Air contains Moisture. A Fuel Tank MUST be vented to allow fuel to flow out, thus fresh air is being constantly drawn into the tank. Covering the fill neck with plastic will help with that if it is a tank not being used for an engine. To store Fuel, fill the tank to the Top and keep in a cool...

Your Sabre is too light and underpowered (16 HP?) to plow much snow. Fix up an older Snowblower 28" or more wide.

Good plan. Check the tender often as they sometimes fail which will lead to a burst frozen battery. Disconnect the Ground (-) cable if you wish. Make sure Tender is working . You could unplug it for a couple weeks then plug it in for a couple weeks.

If it is working, don't fix it. Replace the Spark Plug.

I always use a funnel with a fine screen when filling. It is difficult to find the correct size Viton '0' rings.

Cut the lawn more often @ 3-½" and buy a new Gas Powered Mower while you still can! Take good care of it. Forget all the magic crap. I tried Hi Compression Floor Mats in my Youth. Did not help HP and used more Fuel.

Buy and install new head bolts. Torque them cold and retorque them next day. Be sure your carb is not running 'lean'. Retard timing slightly and try it.

Clean underside of Disc as much as possible Spray with Brakecleener and next day turn it on its' side and spray paint as much as possible. Done.

If it is working don't fix it! If you have an opening fill it with grease or 90 weight oil or both.

Set valve lash on both to .006-.008 and try it.

Well Done Sir. I try to do a good deed and learn something every day. Doesn't always happen but averages out. Check your Oil, clean out your Wallet and buy Wife/GF flowers. Helps your daily odds.

Hopefully your problems are solved. Lots of good advice here. Proceed carefully. Electricity is Fast!

I think you need a serious attitude adjustment.

Excellent results with Ultrasonic Rodent devices if you park inside. Signal goes in straight lines outward.. I jamb packed chicken wire in openings of other equipment where possible.

Bob: If you watch the many Utube small engine Repair guys like tarryl and Dony boy and B. Pender you will see the gel like substance that forms in the float bowl, emulsion tube etc. Glad you have not had a problem. I don't risk it in Southern Ontario. Perhaps you live in a less humid area. A...

Most fuel tanks are Vented.

Just Drive it! Boosting from a running vehicle engine can burn out a Stator.

Try heating well around the outside of the Crank and then Quenching. Use some Hardwood wedges beneath the ring gear.

You really don't understand the effects of Ethanol in fuel that is not used within 30 days. Your small engine people are after your money!

With an almost full tank there is minimal air which contains moisture. Turn off or block Fuel line and run it til it stalls. You did good. The Lieberals have banned Ethanol Free fuel in all of Canada. Idiots.

You're Welcome.

As it was once explained to me, if the rear of the blade is lower than the front, it clips the grass again and leaves brown tips. I keep mine 1/8" or so above level at the rear. Scalp wheels should ONLY turn when you are going over a rise in the terrain. Keep 'em up!

Try the old spark plug again.

There was a possibility that the Flywheel key had partially sheared.

You have a great Machine. Leave it alone and buy an ATV.

Since most if not all newer vehicles use Synthetic oil, the price of 'Standard non-synthetic' is rising. Remember there is little difference in Quality Brand oils.

A hectare is 2.1 Acres. Choosing a Garden / lawn tractor involves many things. Not just the Engine. Size of area to be cut. 38-48" deck is standard and for this you need 16-23 HP. Engine. You would not attempt to cut more than 5 acres with a Lawn Tractor let alone 15-20 acres!!! I doubt...

Try another Ignition switch.

Wrap the fuel line in Tin Foil if you can. Be sure to route fuel lines as far as possible from Exhaust pipes. You may want to make a heat shield between the heat source and the tank. Sounds like old fashioned vapour lock. Drill a small hole in the cap before you become a fireball.

This worked for me. Hang the front of the tractor a couple inches off the ground by the Engine? Put a bolt and washer back in the shaft Heat near the shaft and quench a couple times and use an Air hammer on it. You have the weight of the tractor frame and front end pushing on the pulley which...

The bearings are manufactured to be a Press/Interference fit. You don't want the Cup (outer) spinning in the Spindle and wrecking it. Check the bearings in the Idler pulleys.

That is a lot of build up. Yearly I remove the deck, clean it and when deck is upside down I slosh Used Oil over all surfaces. Use a device to hold up the discharge chute. Bungee works well for me. Do not wait until the grass is long before cutting and make sure the grass is very dry. Sharp...

Perhaps one of the Idler Pulleys has bad bearings.

After checking all cable connections for clean and tight, Connect one Booster Cable to the Starter Terminal and then the other end of that cable to the (+) Battery Terminal. If it starts, you may have a Solenoid Problem. If it clicks, you may have a Starter problem.

Strange that the deck will not lower less than 4". Are you measuring from the cutting edge of the blade? Is there an adjustment to that linkage? Park on a Level surface and adjust the Gauge Wheels equally so they are about 3/8" above the surface. Done.