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Just replaced the tranny on my X320 at 280 flat lawn hours!!!! Garbage. Tranny, new drive belt and idler pulleys, $1,810 Cdn. I tried adding some 80-90 Hydraulic fluid to very clean trans oil. No help. When hot you better be at the top of a small grade!

You have a big mess there. Try the sharp punch to break up the Torx bit. Washer and nut and MIG weld stud to washer and 1/2" nut. Heat the head in the area and give it a try. Check the head for flat, if warped find a donor head or get a new one.

Be sure that the oil is not overfilled and that the Crankcase vent hose and vent are clear. If that is not the case, park it at the curb. It owes you nothing.

Correct!

I have had a variety of 100 Series John Deere. L160 was a great one. I inherited an X 320 which is actually made by John Deere. Incredible cutting, totally different deck Setup. 22 HP Kawasaki engine and 48" cut. Totally pleased with it.

Sounds like it is flooding. Carefully remove float and needle and wipe tip clean. Allow fuel to flow. Check emulsion tube holes and the very tiny one on the bottom of the bowl jet at top of threads if it has one.

Remove, clean and gap or replace spark plugs.

Use a wire from the Wire Brush.

Mow the slope up and down or move.

You may have more that one problem. Brake lever should be On and both tiller handles spread out to start if it is wired correctly and similar to Ferris zero turn. Red rarely connects to Black wire. + cable from battery goes to solenoid IN. Another cable goes from the other post of Solenoid...

Drain the oil, replace the plug and wait a week to be sure that fuel is not getting into the Crankcase. Remove spark plugs and turn it over a few times. You may have the wrong dipstick, but fill it slowly until it indicates FULL and drive it!

Remove float bowl and jets. Pass a wire through all the holes. There are very tiny ones hidden on the threads of Float bowl jet on some models. Slide out the float pin, and carefully remove Float and Needle valve. Be prepared to close fuel line or valve. Re assemble and try it. New Premium Fuel.

Mowers with a Button can be fixed by removing the switch and connecting wires. Same BS that requires the stupid foot pedals for forward and reverse instead of a handy lever that also acts as cruise control. Thank the STUPID people of the world for all this BS.

An impact gun on the crank while prying on 2 sides works wonders.

WOT Wide Open Throttle. WFO ???

It is running lean but put that plastic Insulator back between Carb and Cylinder. It is there for a purpose. You may have to drill out main jet a bit. Are you keeping engine shrouds in place/

Don't get too hasty on the carb rebuild. Remove the Jets and clean all orifices with wire from wire brush. Dump old fuel and put new Fuel Filter on.

Check that deck is mounted correctly. You may be able to loosen off the 2 nuts at the back of the deck if it is the model I am thinking of to give more slack. Note original placement.

I always used High Gear to help start a towed vehicle....

Nasty situation. I would carefully drill a 1/8" hole at the very base of the Boss at the crack site all the way through the Flywheel until you find a replacement. Do not over tighten, use a New Key.

Try carefully heating one side of the boss with a propane torch. Then quench with cold water. Apply some penetrant spray for a few days. You could drill and tap it and install a smaller plug.. A sump pump is the best idea.

As suggested previously, determine which pulley is not rotating. Follow logical progression of belt around idlers and work pulleys. Worry about the Brakes later after you determine that they are fully released.

Remove and clean all Battery and starter Cable connections. Use a file/wire brush etc. With Car or other 12VDC source OFF, connect + to Starter and - to Clean solid surface on engine like mounting bolts. Work backwards from there....other side of solenoid etc. NEVER TRY TO BOOST A SMALL ENGINE...

Looks like you ran out of Yellow Paint, or just started on the underside. A good choice would be Pickup Box Rhino coating after getting it sandblasted ( SP3 Commercial Blast.) Washing the underside is a waste of time and clippings act as a blotter promoting corrosion. Run it up on a ramp and...

Do the basics. Turn off gas if you have a valve for that. Remove Fuel Filter and drain old gas and dirt from Fuel tank. Carefully remove float bowl and empty it. Replace Bowl. Fill with filtered Premium Fuel. If gas comes out freely, install new fuel filter. Blow into fuel tank and watch...

Take the top off down to the Flywheel and check under that nut to be sure that the Key has not been partially sheared which puts it out of time enough to do that . Did you remove the flywheel and examine the key? Set coil at 0.300" from Flywheel. It could be valve timing

Simply put a narrow Ratchet strap around the centre of the tread and tighten. Use Bead Sealer of course.