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A gal at work in the pilot manufacturing facility got her hair caught in a fan; she was lucky to have been unharmed.

Yesterday, I thought it would be a good idea to use a piece of steel wool on the bare rotating shaft of a vacuum cleaner motor, to clean off residue from a burnt/broken belt. The shaft grabbed the steel wool pad instantly, I was lucky to only bang up a finger. I ended up using cloth sandpaper...

Did you try to spray some aerosol starting fluid into the air cleaner or carb throat, then trying to start? Just may be needing this prime. If that doesn't get it to start - even for a few seconds - with several tries, then you need to check for spark; for that, you might need a helper.

For mine, R&R of the new engine was straightforward. Absolutely don't forget to add oil !!! As my new engine had an oil filter, I also made sure to order a spare. My engine takes Oil filter 2.25 in. high, OD 3.0 inches 3/4" -16 Thread Size [Oregon 83-013 B&S 492932 or 492932S (short) Kohler...

I have a 2005 LT1000 (917.275371) and mine uses "regular style springs" for that function. Left and right brake springs are same 131335 (superseded to 532179748). Idler spring is on the right and is 169022 (superseded to 532169022). Here's what my brake arms look like (disregard the...

I replaced the engine in my 2005 LT1000 lawn tractor a few years ago. The new engine came with an oil filter, bolted right in, was the best decision for me. Funny - I had starting issues for a couple of years on the original engine, even did the valve adjustment thing a few times; but the new...

I have LT1000 with B&S engine from 2005. I posted in another thread that I've experienced similar issues when my tractor's idler pulley wouldn't move readily due to dirt build-up. So cleaning and lube fixed that.

I've experienced similar issues when my tractor's idler pulley wouldn't move readily due to dirt build-up. So cleaning and lube fixed that.

I also have 2005-purchased LT1000 with the Briggs 31C707 engine. By early 2010s I also have issue of slow cranking, kept adjusting the valves, getting the battery checked or replaced, kept the battery on a charger. Then in 2013, apparently while mowing the weeds in the pasture, I developed an...

I have an LT1000 in a small town, and I order spindle, pulley, blades, belt as a kit. I always have a spare spindle/mandrel and belts on hand as these do wear or break. I've seen a John Deere unit that has grease fittings on its spindles.

That's what she had, what I installed for her; so she doesn't have to go near the battery.

Neighbor is 74-year-old widow, manufactured home on 2 acres, which she maintains. 1 horse, 3 dogs. She was going to discard, asked if I could work my "magic" to try to get it running. "We" are about a week in to seeing/testing if adding a trickle charger/maintainer (which she already had) to...

No, the lawn tractor is for the 1.5 acres of tumbleweeds and weeds (which really wreaks havoc on the lawn tractor blades). I'll be getting 1300 SF of grass soon, the "new" mower will be for that !

I'm getting my back yard professionally done in a few weeks, will have like 1300 SF of sod, but only have the lawn tractor up here. Out of the blue this morning my next-door neighbor rode her horse to the fence and asked if I would like her non-running lawn mower, that maybe I could get it...

Thx.

If solved, what was the reason/cause ???

Occasionally, I have to clean and lube the deck channel and idler mount (where the idler pulley mount slides, the part on the deck that moves when the engagement lever is moved upwards to move the cable).

Sure sounds like the incline is preventing fuel flow. Can you loosen the fuel cap temporarily and try? Might have to lower the gas level in the tank for this.

It sounds like the "Run" circuit only gets power in your "Run" position and not the "Start" position, why you need to catch it perfectly to get it to start/run. In cars and trucks, there are separate contacts in the electrical part of the ignition switch to "close"/complete the "Run" circuit...

I also say to check the choke, may be stuck in the open position. Anyway, at least you have a workaround.

You should be able to download PDF of the owner's manual, will have original part numbers, those can be Googled, lots of numbers have been updated. My own 2005 LT1000 lists drive belt and deck/blade belt as like 1/4" different in length, but I've used same belt length on both for a decade, way...

Wow, what a story about customer service run-around !!! Take it back like others have said, warranty issue. Does sound like an alternator/parasitic drain issue to me. When I purchased my Craftsman lawn tractor in 2005, it arrived without the deck support bracket on one side. Rather than...

I have tumbleweeds, and my lawn tractor blades look a ton worse than those after just 15 minutes !!!

For my LT1000 lawn tractor, a replacement mandrel is about the same price as an entire new spindle. I purchase such parts online, from Ebay retailers.

Good idea !

I wanted to paint my new patio cover, so didn't have time to try one of the local tire stores Sat. morning. I have a feeling it would've been $20 to $25 here though...

I needed a new lawn tractor tire (rear, 18x9.5-8 NHS), ordered one through Amazon; it arrived with clear tape holding on the shipping label, but so tight it deformed the tire. I had tried plenty of Slime, could not do a plug or patch as it appeared that the hole only went through to the inner...

Finally bit the bullet and ordered a replacement rear tire yesterday....where the leak showed externally did not go through, apparently air was working its way around to escape. Also yesterday I bought a non-pneumatic replacement tire for my wheelbarrow at Harbor Freight; the inner tube had...

Update: a few days ago - still no rain - I was finishing up the tumbleweeds mowing. The left lawn tractor spindle broke, but I had a spare here. But that caused the top pulley to grind through the left brake bar; since I didn't know that a shop 25 miles away would have such part, I just...

Have hardly mowed in the last 12 months, lack of rain. So mostly tumbleweeds.

Yesterday, went to mow some tumbleweeds with my 2005 LT1000 lawn tractor. 1. Found a tire was flat; added slime, pumped it up. 2. After 20 minutes of mowing, and moving to the front, my deck belt/blade engagement cable failed. Since I had a new spare one, I didn't try to use a hose clamp to...

Do neighbor a favor, cut the lawn for him !!!

The blade bolts on my 2005 LT1000 42 inch lawn tractor are right-hand thread, and fine thread as well, specially hardened bolts. I use a 1/2 ratchet and 6-sided 9/16" socket for these.

I don't know what a 30'' R110, but many mowers will break a sacrificial flywheel key when hitting an object to protect the engine.

My 2005 LT1000 doesn't have any gauges. What do you need the gauge for - to remind yourself constantly that the alternator is working???

I have 42" deck Craftsman LT1000 917.275371 from 2005. Yes, Sears model number stuff is pretty confusing. Yes, the owner's manual lists slightly-different length/different part numbers for its two belts. I use 95 x ½ inches Kevlar A93K for both the tractor belt and the mowing blades belt.

Thanks. I looked again at the (crummy) parts diagram on the PDF of the manual, and I see that now. I'll buy two of the brake springs. Brake springs 131335 (147 on diagram, ends are perpendicular) Idler spring 169022 (148 on diagram, ends are parallel, point in same direction)

I do have two springs installed currently, but think that the spring on the left side is actually a spring for the right side. I'll order correct left hand spring and a spare, as I'm far away from a local mower parts house. Thanks..

I have Sears LT1000 lawn tractor 917.275371 from 2005. Today while mowing the left deck spindle broke, no problem as I have replacements. However the left spring #131335 also broke. I had a used mower spring that seemed about the right size and strength (might be #10-15543), put that on with...

In the "field", I put on gloves and yank the idler pulley to free it, or to get the mowing belt back on the idler. Sure, the belts do wear. One does not need to remove the deck to replace a mowing belt like the owner's manual states. I can take off the spindle cover and replace the mowing...

When similar happens on my 2005 LT1000, it's typically because the idler pulley on the deck has gotten stuck so it won't put tension on the drive belt. Or has slipped off the right idler, I can typically get that going in 2 minutes "in the field".

I had an automotive battery that was less than a week out of warranty, parts place offered nothing. I went caddy-corner and bought a Walmart battery for $20 less than the parts store. Both were made by Johnson Controls, which has like 85% of USA battery market.

Yep, Mrs. Cusser, a few years ago. Cannot remember the occasion for champagne in summertime...

I had similar hard-to-crank issues after a few years with my LT1000 917.275371 purchased in 2005. I would keep the battery on a tender, adjusted the valves a few times, had battery checked for performance under load a few times. Anyway, while mowing one day the engine lost oil and seized...

Call number listed in the owner's manual, on telephone, the old fashioned way, might be a very simple "fix". Take back to store if no help there.

I have a Craftsman LT-1000 917.275371, purchased May 2005, with 31C7070230E1 engine. In 2013 that engine died and I replaced it with a 31P677 0912 G5 purchased online, pretty similar engine, slightly larger, and the new engine had an oil filter too. This was a straightforward swap, I'd say...

I'd say $25 is fair because you're going to need to do a bunch on that. About 2 years ago a bought a standard low-end mower brand-new for about $160, with warranty. Note that mine is pull start and not self-propelled.

Need to fix this. Ask me why.

Maybe the tensioner pulley arm is stuck. I have this happen periodically.

When my backyard lawn mower cord practically pulled my arm off my shoulder, it was caused by a sheared flywheel key. These keys are made to "sacrificially" break in case the blade hits a stump or something, to prevent major engine damage.