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Seen on the internet...."He's a French Model"

Don't forget,StarTech, that running a mower with a bad battery can and does melt the stator ring under the flywheel, due to the heavy demand put on the charging circuit., trying to charge a bad battery.

Wow! What a set-up! That video cleared up everything for me. What a cluster!

This just my personal opinion, but have you considered a used Snapper rear engine rider. There are several cutting width models to chose from. I would suggest a used one in good condition, tube frame style, not square frame style. Easy to maintain, good quality cut and parts can be had literally...

That's interesting. Side note, back in the late 1960's, Pontiac did the very same thing to the Firebird's 4 barrel carbs so the GTO with the same engine/transmission as the Firebird, would be a bit faster. They did it with the linkage to the rear barrels.

Top quality info from you, Rivets, always. Don't sweat the trolls. Water WILL get into fuel tanks in many ways. My late father-in-law's ztr mower's carbs bowl was full of rust. Never spent a night outside. Always new fuel, too.

The pro's of using a blower/thrower is you are moving about and you also have a smaller "footprint" not needing so much room to turn, etc. One of the con's of using a blade and it's a big one, you will get cold! Another con is snow will build up and get very hard to push. The blower will throw...

Just a thought,..but did you, perhaps, misspell the descriptive word for the OP? :-)

I agree. There in no better can than an all steel can such as this Eagle Safety Can. This is the only gas can type that is allowed on construction sites for fueling gasoline powered equipment. They are a bit more expensive than the poly containers, but it is a one time expense. The round shape...

I have several Midwest brand 5 gallon containers. I have had about every brand can out there through the years and this brand has been the best ones yet. The double handles are a great feature also. The spout has a "C" shaped O ring for the spout. The safety spout is better than most and I won't...

Posted on shop wall.

Sad. The original Snapper RER was perhaps the best rider mower ever. No frills, no cup holders, no fancy engine covers to make it look like a mini- farm tractor, just everything required to cut the lawn and do a great job of it. My 33" Extra Tough Hi Vac rider from 1984 will live on due to the...

Wouldn't a chaffed wire, before going to the fuel solenoid, melt there at the chafe rather than at the carb plug?

I totally cleaned the fins and underside of the flywheel while I had it apart, as per the advice of one of the learned posters here. I hesitate to use 'All Caps' so I'll refrain from it, BUT the knowledge and wisdom of several posters here is NOT to be taken lightly. My reply and thank you here...

Melted Stator update: Bought a new battery for my mower and installed it before first mow with the new and updated stator and regulator. I had had the new battery hooked to one of my Shumacher Smart Charger overnight at 2 amps, so it was up without putting any undue strain on the new stator...

Thank you,bertsmobile1. Since the stator isn't totally fried, as in a dead short circuit, I believe you may be correct in that it's running at near maximum output at or near 100% of the time. The battery a couple of years old and may be due for replacement. It's been my experience that mower...

This is why my battery charging system wasn't doing what it should. What might cause this meltdown? Nothing has been changed on this mower for 2 years, Now this happened last week I had spare stator and regulator from another engine so changed out both, easy job. I'll see what happens next mow...

This is why my battery charging system wasn't doing what it should. What might cause this meltdown? Nothing has been changed on this mower for 2 years, Now this happened last week, resulting in a no start condition-dead battery

:-D👍

TIA is text shorthand for "Thanks in advance". As in Thanks in advance for any advice on the afterfire solenoid replacement.

Not really a rant. More like a observation of how things/people have become. I have a couple of people next door that bought a another vehicle and have a temporary paper tag on it instead of a valid legal license plate. I know, the paper plate is good for 30 days. They've been driving the...

So I maybe should replace my after fire solenoid? TIA

Yeah,TobyU, you are so very correct! Like the Ford Explorer/Firestone debacle, following the "experts" can get you killed(or worse!)

I think 10 instead of recommended 15 may help my mower's ride. I'll try that. Thanks.

Thank you, Rivets! That green used to be white connector was throwing me off. Your information is always correct and to be trusted!

Thanks, Rivets. I also have the full color diagram page from Briggs, but I couldn't find an alternator pic showing the single yellow wire with white connector going to the regulator/rectifier mounted on the engine. The disconnected red wire went the the harness and connected through the ignition...

Alternator ID I need some help to identify this alternator output. I can't find this particular wiring on the Briggs ID chart. TIA

My ztr manual says 15 psi rear, 20 psi front. Sidewall numbers are what the tire will withstand without exploding, not what works best for the mower the tire is on. Compare your door sticker on your vehicle to your tire sidewall. They will not be the same.

Speaking only for me, my anti-afterfire solenoid failed and shut down my mower at the farthest end of my yard. Mine was that 1%. As a rule, I turn off my gasline shutoff before turning the mower off, so no afterfire bang.

After buying several sets of blades that took very little to bend them, I ran across these Oregon blades and have been quite pleased with them. Holding an edge and not bending at the slightest twig are far superior to even the OEM blades from the dealer. If you can find the correct length and...

Remember, I said "Diesel" T6, not T6 Multi engine. Two different oil formulations. T6 Diesel should not be used in any modern gasoline automobile/truck engines. As others have stated, STAY with your engine makers, B&S, Kawasaki, etc, recommended mower oil for peace of mind and warranty protection.

Nope, not 'mower oil'. Full synthetic diesel engine oil. It's NOT compatible with catalytic converters, due to additives. Shell Rotella. T6 Recommended for vintage muscle cars.

Not to drag you back into the oil discussion, bertsmobile1, but I use the T6 in my OHC Ford non-cat converter 2.5 engine that holds 5 quarts. The oil comes in gallon containers, so I have some on hand after an oil change. It's no doubt overkill in the mowers , but I know Ford had a lot of issues...

As in: "My puddle is further from my feet than yours is!" :-D

But would it run OK on today's pump gas? BIL has to use 100+ AV gas.

Any opinion on Shell Rotella T6 15w40 full synthetic diesel oil? It supposedly have more anti-wear additives than gasoline engine oils.

Brother-in-law has a 1969 Superbee clone for sale 440 4 speed pistol grip shifter.

Bertsmobile1 has nailed it, When dealing with the public, these are words to live by. Ignore them at your own peril.

side benefit of "clipping" the solenoid...learn to enjoy the occasional muffler backfire! LOL!

IMHO, another point to consider is that the engine this crank came out of is back in service with a replacement crank. Since there is no engine to put this crank into, what's the point of wasting any time or effort on it.

That DOES reduce the sharpening requirements per season!

It's been my experience that Oregon Durable blades are the best of all the aftermarket blades out there.

Carl

I like to say "If idiots were Indians, (Native Americans) I'd surely be General Custer!" My next door neighbor cooling his garage with a window AC.

This just makes good economic sense. Maintaining and repairing useable and repairable objects, be they mowers or vehicles, keeps them out of the waste stream and saves the resources and energy used to produce a usually less durable replacement. Personally, I get a bit of satisfaction keeping my...

It doesn't need to be an older mower, it can be one that gets hosed down after every mow.

The more I have looked over the new mowers, the less I want to part with my USA made Husqvarna. The fact is that most of the mower parts are from outside parts suppliers and readily available. It has a Briggs engine, HydroGear drive transmissions, etc. Husqvarna made the main chassis that is 14...

This same family has purchased that same girl one of those "Hoverboards" that are notorious bone breakers. She has been riding it in the streets, no helmet, no protective pads, nothing. This is a heavily travelled public street. Children cost a LOT. Why carelessly endanger them, all for "fun"?

Tis' done! :-D

ZTR Cub Cadet mowers usually only have room for one operator. However, 2 can have more fun mowing. My neighbor likes to share his mowing experience with the kids.