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Stick the plugs back in the caps and ground them.....give the spark somewhere t go.....

Continental aircraft engines are good down to 40# per the mfg. 65 is not spectacular but is probably much higher when running. Should run.

Precisely.

Lock nut for a deck welded nut....

Rings that have seated and were more effective at the beginning of service life. As the engine ages the rings will wear more and allow just that scant bit of oil to seep past when not running. On startup the combustion gasses pressurize the rings from the piston side and press them into the...

These are so simple to work on.....two long screws hold the whole thing together. If you decide to take it apart just take a permanent marker and draw a line down the case from one end to the other on just one side.... makes reassembly easier. It's not rocket science....bet you can do this, but...

Bet these are plain oilite bearings that are running dry initially when cold until they warm up and exude what remaining oil there is. Could be wrong, tho. In which case oil would be a better bet. Oilite is a sintered metal that is oil impregnated at the factory....but it's not permanent.

Have you ever replaced the air filter? If you unlatch the filter housing and lift the filter up does the surging stop? Bad batch of filters years ago had a flame retardant sprayed on. Yeah....it stopped flames but also severely restricted airflow.

Yes. It does. Supposed to have some "play".

I love the way everyone evaluates a problem.....don't look at the condition, just replace it. Starters last a looooong time...brushes, commutators, and lubrication don't. I've rebuilt several that just needed the brushes replaced, commutator cleaned, and inside cleaned. Sparse lubrication is...

Horizontal V twins smoke a bit on startup...it's just the way they are. I wouldn't do anything unless and until it makes smoke all the time. And it's just a couple of drops getting by the rings while sitting.....nice thin, heated oil. Ever watch a radial engine start up? Same principle.

That's the problem with not understanding physics.....it acts over milliseconds not instantaneously. The difference between letting the clutch out slowly or just dumping it. But I guess if all you've ever experienced is an automatic that makes no sense either.

One of the nicest things you can do for your mower...... https://www.gdimeters.com/article.cfm?ArticleNumber=7

Get a Volt/Ohm meter.....all of $10 on Amazon.

Have you manually spun the blades.....that means by hand.....with the mower off and check to see if anything is being struck by a blade? With your stump incident I wouldn't be surprised if a tear in the blade enclosure ( much less stout than the actual deck) is now being caught by a possible...

What "stopped"? The entire drive system? Just the blades but the pulleys and belt kept going (damn near impossible)? Was the deck loaded up with rock hard grass? Were the blades the same length as old? Was the clutch still engaged when it "stopped"?

Ever try to bend 1/4 steel.

That's like rewarding criminals.....

Too much grease can cause rolling elements to skid vice roll. Rolling elements require a vanishingly small amount of grease. This is the same reason more two stroke oil isn't better for two strokes' crankshaft bearings...the excess oil builds a hydrodynamic wedge ahead of the ball and the ball...

Get these instead... NGK (8328) LB01EP Spark Plug Cap , Black https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018JVQXC?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title They screw into the plug wire about an inch.

First....across the slope is much harder and more dangerous. Straight up, straight down. My Bad Boy Would handle some pretty nasty slopes. Even with that I got tired of fighting the ZTR....had a Craftsman rider with an 18 horse single. Much easier to maneuver but had to put an electric fuel pump...

Chutes are cute if there's zero chance of chucking something far enough to damage/injure. Or in one instance had house in the NE that had a lawn that was above the level of the house. With a freeze thaw cycle glacial till pops out of the dirt...window didn't like it. Otherwise, bungee up. Mine...

Cash leaves you no recourse. Customer says, mechanic says. I do all my own work so the card only gets me parts for which I can challenge quality. It's leverage against bullshittery.

Never pay cash, always card on service. Then you can dispute the hell out of it.

That's what I suspected poster meant. Files 😜

This damn forum software sucks....what damn site DOESN'T take jpeg files. And for mobile devices....halt, stop, freeze, tries to correct your spelling.......y'all should bitch hard at this site's owners.....but good luck finding them. Rant done. Get a set of grease needles off Amazon. In most...

"Torch tip" ? What the hell is that.

#1 - Pay with a credit card? Put it in dispute with your card company.....

One of the things I wish these muffler guys would do is cut some vertical bracing webbing welded between the flange and the muffler body. That's a hell of an overhang just sitting there bouncing up and down and vibrating cracks right into the muffler body and flange welds.

Reason I asked about the "struggle to start" issue is because most of the starters on small engines look like they're well sealed but are not. Because of the dusty, litter ridden environment material always seems to work it's way into the case and the dirt will cause the starter to slow down and...

New, defective parts. Good on ya for finding the problem.

When you say "struggled" are you referring to cranking or just once started, running.

Also, my 730 water cooled likes choke when cold and no choke when warm. Just depends on the degree of "warmness". Also had a problem with the original Kawasaki coil wires....they are carbon track "wires" meaning that there is a carbon impregnated string that forms the current carrying member of...

Gas in oil is highly unlikely. Your timing should be fixed but the coil to face is slightly variable. Make sure there is no rubbing of the flywheel against the coils. It'll still run but not the way the parts should be set up. Business card is a good approximation.

It's a 3/8" bolt...the head could be anything. The spec does not say 3/8" head.....

https://images.app.goo.gl/YvdpYACsbiEg123D6 General guidance......

These iron or aluminum cylinders?

Thank you! I'm yelling at the suggestion to "cut it off".....🤔🤫

Did you adequately space the coil faces from the flywheel or just eyeball it?

You dont want a mower for that. Something like a DR push string trimmer.

Highly unlikely the field failed as described. Starters are not fully sealed units. Dust and dirt make their way into the interior. Take the starter apart. Clean it out, blow it out, clean up the commutator, check brush length/condition, lubricate the plain bearings if so equipped and the shaft...

I have a magnetic flow sensor impeller that failed because of exfoliation of the core through rust.....so, that part about rust not affecting, depends.

"Featuring the lightweight 7.25 lbs gross torque, 163cc overhead valve engine featuring No Oil Changes ever." Cut and paste from advertising. Please tell us if you followed this last shit piece of advice.

Take it to your dealer...

https://www.google.com/search?q=john%20deere%20gx75%20kawasaki%209%20hp%20igniter&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1-m

https://www.amazon.com/21121-2058-Ignition-Kawasaki-FC290V-21121-2084/dp/B08MFLQ7GJ Sure you're not throwing parts at it? 😜

Pay attention to the amp rating of the fuse that manages that circuit. If higher than the upgraded 10 amp switch then you should be good. If not, fuses protect the wiring not the devices attached .

Those who aren't "brand loyal" probably bought crap initially or didn't realize they've bought crap until it's too late. For some it's a progression based on what you can afford or unverified recommendations from others.