Search results

Try it. Then try to dismiss the reply page. What you get is the quoted text box without any associated reply. I guess you've never changed your mind.....lucky you.

It's solved. A counter intuitive way to do things....when you hit REPLY then change your mind you have to POST REPLY anyway. There is no other option. Then the posted reply has the DELETE option that kills the post. My guess is the programmer already had the post number (in the upper right of...

Yes....you can do that but the original quoted message still remains on the screen and cannot be dismissed. If I wanted to I can build a huge chain of REPLY blocks, each with its own reply/message number and there's no way to dismiss any of them. Not that I would do that but it's an interesting...

You just repeated everything I said...

And this should be Post #5 being checked on a Linux machine......when I looked at this post with the prior text in it, and again after DELETE DRAFT was used the draft text was gone but the only selection available was to hit REPLY as there is no option to CANCEL.....Quite confusing.

Crap....being stupid has its costs. Thanks! Never once thought the save would have two options. However....just tried and the draft goes not go away and the REPLY block just sits there and doesn't close irregardless of DRAFT deletion. There should be a software option icon that allows the...

I'll bet there's a way to do this but is sure isn't obvious. When you select REPLY and the quoted message comes up with your space below it to reply....how the hell do you cancel the REPLY action. There is zero cancellation selection anywhere so now you're stuck with a quote with no reply just...

I'll bet there's a way to do this but is sure isn't obvious. When you select REPLY and the quoted message comes up with your space below it to reply....how the hell do you cancel the REPLY action. There is zero cancellation selection anywhere so now you're stuck with a quote with no reply just...

Methanol burns about two times slower and only has 9500btu/lb compared to 18,400btu per pound for gasoline. My guess is these were not blown or turbocharged so there is no way you could get the power you claim unless you burned 3 times the amount of methanol compared to gasoline. And...the...

Most don't know about this mix.....they usually thing it's just some backwoods retard that invented it. They always mention that they don't "mix" (immiscible is the proper term)....so just shake it up so that both materials are present on application. The one caution is acetone will burn at much...

Not my sarcasm...just a quote. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/briggs-stratton-ohv-plastic-engine-no-compression.79809/post-514532

Automotive repair or engine rebuilder....most straight machinists don't.

These are mower engines not the space shuttle.

Whatever.

Not the whole industry....just the gullible part of the industry. Let's take Permatex 80037 as an example. This material is your silicon carbide in 4 mixed grits... 120, 150, 180, and 220. Ostensibly the grit size decreases as the paste is ground between the face and the seat...or so Permatex...

But then you still have the seat...🤔. Agreed that not many have the stones or the tools to grind seats and/or valves....or the skill. It can be a pretty big investment and for a one time use it's better to take the parts to someone in the business of valvetrain restoration. New valves and...

Lapping does not increase compression. Will not remove pits, not used for removing carbon, and has zero effect on performance. There are tons of marketing ads pushing this crap and it's all a lie. The only value of lapping is to verify correct contact location of the seat on the valve and the...

Precisely the behavior of my engine. Thought at first it was fuel pump related but no....ignition. Pulling cylinder 1 plug cap resulted in a very rough running engine. Pulling the #2 however engine ran smoothly. When I say smoothly that means the ignition was consistent with #1 coil but still...

As it so happens I just had to replace both coils at 480 hours. Yes they do fail and it not ucommon for them to fail . The post below explains why. The transistor managed coils are not all that robust given the hostile environment they live in ,primarily heat related...

I would pay to watch him do that....🤔

You ought to watch some YouTube videos of Pakistanis rebuilding engines.

The fuse kits from Amazon and others are crap. There are tests of fuses rated at a specific amperage that continue to operate at 400% above stated rating. All are Chinee made.

Just replaced both of mine at 480 hours on the originals. The result was dramatic.

Yes...there are two transistors in each coil and they can and do fail. Every revolution of the engine creates a spark. At 3300RPM that's 55 sparks a second. The high heat environment doesn't bode well for long life.

This is not a plea for help as it has been fixed, just a heads up on cause and effect. The ignition coils on these engines are different from the #1 and #2 side with different part numbers and have a pair of transistors inside the units that control primary winding charging and field collapse...

Lapping just makes the seat and valve shiney.

Exactly.

Why does a compression release exist? For the weak human pulling the cord. No engine equipped with a starter should ever require a compression release. And no amount of adjustment of the valves will fix a worn compression release cam lobe. Drain your oil and look for sparklies. May be worse...

Kawasaki makes their small engines in MO and NE. One of the first to do so. Toyota, Subaru, Nissan and Honda followed suit. Not everything is made overseas. Tariffs can be avoided. Buy American. Just because it sounds foreign doesn't mean it's not built here by American labor and materials. Some...

Japan's Tanaka when they were still in business. The only manufacturer with a 7 year residential warranty, 3 year commercial. Light, simple, trivial to work on. Still believed the customer was smart enough to make their own carb adjustments.

I've never had to do a decarbon. Ever. Everything I own that is air cooled two stroke and under 8000 or under RPM runs close to 100:1 gas/oil. Including Ultralight acft engines. Rotax reccomemends decarbon every 50 hours. That's just insane. Ball bearings and needle bearings require scant...

What, exactly, are you "well known" for? 🤫🤔

Called pre-ignition. A hot bit of carbon, a sliver of metal that is hot enough to ignite fuel vapor. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-ignition This is what separates mechanics from on-lookers.

If the pump gaskets are stiff and inoperable the exact opposite of what you describe will be the condition.

If it's flooded, simply remove the spark plug and pull it over a few times...then wait. Fuel will evaporate. Install plug, reattempt starting. You don't need to pull it over 25 times in rapid succession.

Like trimmer line can't as well.

Trace the white back and run a separate new wire to the switch S terminal that supplies the 12v solenoid. If that works you're looking at two relays that must operate to send power on to the solenoid.

A replacement head that uses cable or wire rope. That'll keep you busy trimming and not changing line all the time.

Those cheap modules can be used to convert an old points and condenser saw to electronic trigger so don't see why they wouldn't work the same as a name brand. I've converted a few old McCollough and they start easier and run just as well.

Ground?

I think it's more "disturbing the Force"......electric mowers have that effect.

Full throttle?

You are now, officially, a parts cannon. 🤔

Pretty simple....cut out the back of the frame hole.

If this machine has any time at all on it, and a lot of starts, the starter commutator get glazed and the brushes don't make adequate contact. All you'll get is a sight click from the relay or the stronger one from solenoid. Easy fix. Remove and disassemble starter. 600 grit paper to clean the...

If it cranks when jumped, what made you think it was the solenoid? It has to work to actuate the Bendix.

How old is the mower? Lots of hours? If that's the case might want to drop the starter and check the commutator. Neighbors mower did just what you describe so pulled it for them and cleaned the heavily varnished commutator. It's an easy fix if you have the tools and skills. The one thing I would...

Mine on a 54" Lightning has lasted from 2008. They are units originally designed for gates and the big 10' sat dishes, ball and screw actuators. Be wary of the travel at the very end of the stroke as sometimes the unit will not retract because the ball has reached the end of the screw and...