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Manufacturers would rather sell a new gear box. I imagine that many residential customers would care one way or the other. I believe that @GearHead36 is referring to #2 in the second photo of @StarTech parts drawings.

A well designed deck. A deck that gives a good cut and discharges grass well. A deck that is simple to level. A deck that is has easy access to the belts.

That’s how I do my edger and string trimmer.

Check with your local John Deere dealers for the battery.

Have you thought about filling them with foam?

I for one am not thrilled with the so-called smart key pad starting systems. There is a need for some sort of monitoring system for the EFI engines. For the carbureted engines, the key is all that’s needed. Keep regularly scheduled maintenance as simple as possible for the end user.

Those 65 degree Yamaha V-Twins on Gravely were a nightmare to change plugs. Possibly the worst engine ever made.

Easy access to the rear of the engine. It’s a pain in the rear to remove the rear end of the mower just to adjust the carburetor or adjust the valves.

I hate Gator style blades. I don’t have the time to clean my deck after every 1/2 acre. I don’t have time to go over areas where big clumps havefallen from under the deck. That’s a big no to extra high lift blades. Gator G6 blades my a mess on my Gravely. The OEM blades do a fair job. However...

I replied before I saw yours. Try leveling the deck properly. You want it level from side to side and 1/8” to 1/4” higher in the rear. Use OEM or equivalent high lift blades. Rotary #11856.

You missed a couple. Deck leveled properly. Use high lift blades. Gator style blades will make a mess.

You’ve got to be kidding.

The newer Ferris Z3X uses Hydro-Gear ZT4400 transaxles. If that’s what your particular mower is equipped with then, you can use synthetic or conventional 20W50 or 15W50 synthetic. 177 to 120 ounces per side. https://www.hydro-gear.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/BLN-0081_4400_P6.pdf

Look at the photo that you put up. There definitely needs to be a bead put on where the two curved baffles meet. Your other problem is those Gator style blades. They aren’t good for anything but fall leaves.

That 3/8” higher in the rear doesn’t apply to all brands. For the OP’s Gravely, all blades are to be 20.5” in length, 2.5”wide, 0.25” thick, and have a 5/8” center hole.

I doubt that was the case. It can be made to cut better. However, a zero turn isn’t going to cut that stuff like a tractor pulled Bush Hog.

I went back and looked at the OP’s photo. Two things stood out for me. First is it’s a pasture type property. Using even a commercial zero turn, it’s going to need double cutting. Second is the rather large swath of partially and uncut grass. I would go straight to that center spindle and...

What would the anti-scalp wheels have to do with it? Are those anti-scalp wheels adjusted to be in constant contact with the ground? If so, they shouldn’t be.

I would look at the Ariens Apex or Bad Boy Maverick

Why are you shopping for low end residential mowers?

The anti-scalp wheel doesn’t matter. They are not supposed to ride on the ground.

The 20.5” measurement is taken diagonally. https://www.fisherbarton.com/how-to-measure-lawn-mower-blades/

L= 20.5” W= 2.5” Center Hole = 5/8” Rotary Copperhead #6180

Yep!

I’ve heard some people say that the Kohler engines are louder than the Kawasaki. I have no way to verify this. I do know that I can tell the two apart by hearing them mowing. I have the ZT740 on my Gravely. I don’t worry about the noise because I always wear hearing protection.

Here’s the parts schematic. However, you will need to verify this with your unit.

I use white lithium or silicone spray lube on things that don’t have grease fittings.

And, some tensioning pulley assemblies have a square hole to accept a 1/2” pull handle and extension.

I’ve used the NGK plugs on my Kohler ZT740. The gap is the same 0.030

Never mind. The cord works great on the deck tension springs.

A piece of 1/4” braided nylon cord or rope makes a good spring removal/install tool.

Pull the both plugs. Turn the engine by hand and Verify that the left piston is moving up and down. Also, pull the left valve cover and see if you have a bent pushrod. If you have spark on the left, there is probably something wrong with the left cylinder. Have you ever adjusted the valves?

I’m glad that you finally got it. Did you have to remove the mower deck?

Will dropping the deck allow you easier access?

Thanks for answering. I don’t see many diesel zero turns in SW Georgia. Those that I do see are either Kubota or John Deere. Every now and then I see a Grasshopper.

I’m curious. Why did you choose a Ferris over some of the other brands out there?

Rotary Copperhead #6083

Maybe someone will come along to help you out.

No, I don’t own a Ferris. Will this help? https://www.shantzfarmequip.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Ferris-mower-IS2600Z-zero-turn-mower-parts-manual.pdf

If you can’t get it off and decide to cut it, how will you get the new belt on? You are going to have to remove the deck belt first. You are then going to have to unplug your PTO clutch and remove the PTO anti-rotation bolt. You are then going to release the tension spring on the hydraulic drive...

Maybe, I should have been more clear. I never shut my engine down at full RPM. I always idle it down before shutting it off.

First of all, the engine make, model number, and serial number would be helpful. Adding a drain hose may require you to loosen the engine mounting bolts and raise the engine high enough to make the change.

I ain’t buying the rusted pulley story either.

Did they even bother to check the pulley alignment?

Good deal.

The first Toro that I had was the MX5050 with the EZT2200 transmissions. It was a decent mower except for the deck leveling setup. One adjuster on the front and one on the left side. I never could get the thing to level. I moved up the the Timecutter HD54 ZX5400. It had ZT3100 hydros. The deck...

Many people are too eager to replace carburetors.

Are you able to get Loncin engines? That may be an option. Their engines of that HP rating usually have a 1” crankshaft end. Of course, you will have to modify the wiring.

E Exhaust all other options before buying a cheap Chinese carburetor. Make sure you have good fuel flow to the carburetor. There may be trash in the tank. You may have bad gas in the tank. The pickup line in the tank may be picking up trash that’s bigger than the fuel line. Pull the carburetor...

Yep. I was focusing on what the OP was looking for. The lower end Toro residential zero turn mowers aren’t all that great. I had one and I could never get the deck to level. If I were buying a lawn tractor, I would go with a John Deer, Husqvarna, or Kubota.