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A spring will be close by that throttle cable connection . The spring tells the the speed you want it and the Gov makes certain it runs there .

This link may help some . + A spot of paint on each connection point before removal of cable ends and connection point makes identifying where it goes back even if it's years later . Color match each individually . The ladies keep many colors around for our convenience ...

The main reason belts come off is a pulley alignment problem and you're in the correct area with a bad floppy idler bracket .

I've found a common wire brush won;t remove lead oxide very well . Maybe that's why a certain battery terminal brush was invented . I scrape them with my pocket knife until the lead shines bright .

I consider round-up a tool . The last concentrate i bought was 54 bucks for 2 gal . Mix 6 fluid oz. to a gallon of water and make yourself a sponge swab to apply on unwanted growth . I have 2 swabs to pinch some plants between and a 2 gal. jug lasts about 5 years . I do spray some if the growth...

There a constant speed governor in that engine so playing with the throttle is of no value because the throttle is wide open at cranking rpm . Try removing the air filter and dribble about a eye dropper of gas in the top of the carburetor. A lack of fuel is the problem .

I've about quit using a pressure tester, but plumb the portable air tank so the pressure gauge is used ;

Chemtool is one of a few products that work as described . Approx 1975 a fellow had a ford 240 ? engine that had been driven at grandpa's speed and seldom reached operating temperature . If not for chemtool I'd probably still be trying to get the lifters out . It dissolves varnish too .

We know the feeling after 42 years . The story here goes like this : In discussion a question was ask , what would you do if you hit the lottery ? The words quickly from the wife were I' M NOT MOVING .

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=rhomboid+mercury

https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=rhomboid+mercury

if heat is applied don't heat the hub but heat the outer parameter of the pulley allowing the torch to reach the hub on occasion . The idea is to draw the hub from the shaft without heating the hub .

In instances similar , a metric thread file covering 8 options is a handy tool .

I can't help this time other than having the schematic , but make it easy for next time . Keep a few colors of nail polish handy and before disconnecting anything apply a color to each connection .

I've seen heat applied in the wrong location so many times it's pathetic . Example : heat applied where it's stuck at the hub . Wrong because the outer diameter hasn't expanded . Heat the outer diameter and the hub will be drawn from the shaft . It makes no difference ; that pulley or a bull...

My consciences is ; the gauge wheel was developed in an attempt to make a lawn look like a golf course . Unless we have a surface smooth as a baby's butt by spending thousands on surface prep , that will never happen .

You make a puller and prevent damage to anything .

Timing is close enough to run if your thumb is blown from the spark plug hole at the exact time we see a spark when the plug or wire is grounded .If it passes that test there's no need to pull the fly wheel .

As soon as it dies and won't start remove the air filter and put a teaspoon of gasoline in the top of the carburetor and try it .

With a file we can tell which blades we would prefer . Heat treated for hardness they would file similar to a cold chisel .

Thanks for the heads - up .

Will standing on the foot rests of a X350 when mowing a steep hill keep the problem of a riding mower from tipping over backwards .

Rough idle but seeming to run good at hi speed often points to a vacuum leak . Why ? There's more vacuum at idle speed causing a lean mixture more so than at hi speed . Ben there - dun that with a ford engine .

Test the power of the drive system to determine if it will spin the wheels in reverse . Chock the front wheels and determine if the cvt will spin the rear wheels .

This is a little red neck but it works for a 30° angle when the angle grinder is held level .

This works for me but i'm not 6 ft.12 .lol

If a metal drill bit index causes problems returning the bit to the second hole , a champfered end ground to about 45 deg. solves most of those problems .

This can harden a blade but only if it has the right steel .

I've seen so many mechanics heat in the wrong location so it also heats the shaft where it's stuck . Heat the outer most part of the flywheel and the heat there will draw the wheel from the shaft .

If you haven't , consider a chalk test to determine which way you like for air pressure ..

The boat cover canvas would be my recommendation .

A bearing that's failing will many times run at a elevated temperature compared to like bearings . You can check the temperature with your hand . Kill it after mowing a few minutes and compare the temp. of all like bearings .

With a extra vise a quick jig to hold a blade so the hand grinder can grind on the top edge . This blade gets about 30° and three 2 xs gives that angle close enough . BTW , this is a original J D blade from a 350X and it's no harder to file than mild steel . So much for heat treatment .

Using glyphosate wick each clump with a sponge .

Just in case someone didn't understand blade overlap in the previous pic i did a little photo work to make things clearer .

Looks as if 2 decks were welded together without the offset recommended in #13 so the blades will always hit each other .

Looks as if 2 decks were welded together without the offset recommended in #13 so the blades will always hit each other .

That's the experience I've had with idlers . The stronger spring may have actually made the condition worse. Kill the engine with the pto engaged then take a look at the idler position to see if that sheave is parallel with the stationary pulleys .

Can we eliminate a air filter problem by running it without the air filter for a few minutes ?

Previously mentioned , the mower is being ask to do a job it wasn't designed to do . This pic of blade overlap is difficult to see , but if blade overlap is sufficient a straight line can't be drawn parallel to the tractor length when any 2 adjacent blades are at 90° to the tractor . That's he...

Using a X350 , I need to mow a hill that slopes 7" in 36" . COPIED:

I'd also like to hear what Honda does considering the warranty .

I've seen a few things from both schools of thought and i oil / grease . Being there is dirt not seen on dry fittings i grease / oil because i prefer lubricated dirt opposed to dry dirt . A lawn tractor as an example . Steering rack / pinion bearing and sector gear . I've nearly mastered but...

A french cleat shelf of whatever length needed would be my choice . A bungee or tarp strap keeps it there .

Mow about 10 minutes and shut the engine off to check bearing housing temperature by feel . If a bearing is bad , the temperature of that housing will be above the others . Occasionally a grass build up of clippings will cause a odd sound. .

In the early 1970's i removed the lifters from a pickup truck . I would still be working on that if not for Berryman Chemtool .

While it's up , grease the front axle pivot bearing that may have never been greased .

If you can tie boot laces ya can replace the bearings . There's only 3 pieces inside the assembly and all will go in either end first .

No grease fitting for a sealed bearing doesn't concern me , but I am concerned if at least 1 of the 2 bearings is not a push ( with my finger ) fit .

i believe the plumbing and v-belt industries are cousins and there has been some in-breeding . I see the pitch diameter is infrequently mentioned .