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You can lap the valves with a little lapping compound, How does the compression stack up other than leak down ? Carbon can score the cylinders and is very abrasive , side to side indicates worn valve guides and can be a cause for smoke / low compression lack of power etc.

If you got good compression and fire , that leaves only fuel as the problem, Timing is not an issue since it runs on one cylinder so concentrate on fuel delivery.

EV world aint all it's cracked up to be , Everyone going to be disappointed in my opinion

Depends on the type of meter you have , some sense a pulse from the magneto and read then , if it requires 12 volts then it should read as such when the key is in the On position I installed one on my outboard and if I remember right there weren't any wires to hook up it just picked up a signal...

Pull the wires off at the connection , check both to ground - only one should read ground , engage the switch and see if you have 12 volts on the other wire , if test passes , re connect and engage the switch and listen to the PTO , it should click and engage.

I swapped on a while back and just changed the pully out along with it, had to get a different drive belt because the different pully was not the same diameter. I've seen sleeves from the factory to fit up the clutch / drive assembly before so someone makes them

I think you got about all you goin to get out of that battery. Upgrade will not hurt though

If the needle and seat are holding , it will only allow so much fuel into the bowl, I've used electric fuel pumps on these guys with no problems as to fuel pressure being too high etc. To my way of thinking only the carb or it's settings would make it run too rich, not sure there are any...

Has this happened all of a sudden or a gradual thing ? Is it smoking Black / blue / white ?

Paint my fence with it

Right Huskavara , don't know how to spell it

i've used bad boy mowers for a long time without any issues kuskys have a good Track record as well , I usually stick to Kohler or Kawasaki motors - Not a big fan of Kubota just because they're hard to work on in my opinion , Also stay away from Key pad touch control machines they're trouble .

Don't give up on this forum there are a lot of smart guys here and give good advise, you're problem is unique in that it does not add up logically but Lots of times this happens, my mind set is to keep an open mind when trouble shooting a problem. ( like you installed a new plug but the new...

Stick a straight rod like a coat hanger or welding rod through the plug hole and feel where the piston is , if you can roll the flywheel while doing it you can watch the piston position by seeing the rod go up and down

While it's locked as you say , pull your plug and use a straight rod and see what position the piston is in, Curious if it's BTC or TDC.

Can you feel any compression when the plug is out and you pull the cord ? This will expose a lot

Could be a starter issue

Woodruff keys stick out just like other keys , if it's not then it's sheared

Hard to say at this point but I'd still bet on a fuel / carb problem

How long since it turned over ? Check battery voltage first - at the battery terminals , if 12 volts there , look at the solenoid terminal , should have 12 volts on one side even without the key turned on, if voltage present there , turn key to Start and listen for any clicking noise at the...

Is the governor spring and linkage free or possibly sticking ?

Yeah , I use a clean hose to blow through to keep gas outa my mouth, you'll know right away if it's a bad seat. Seems cheaper these days to change the whole carb rather than a repair kit.

I've done it lots of times it's a good initial test - never went any further with pressure gauges etc. but sure it's a more accurate test.

Try an electric fuel pump and bypass your tank run it straight from a clean fuel source and see what happens

Remove the carb, turn upside down and blow into the fuel port , if you can't blow through it the needle and seat are ok, When you turn it right side up you should be able to blow through it , this will eliminate the needle / seat or tell if they're bad

Will need to be very patient both drilling and tapping this out. Use plenty of lube during both , no down side really because it's basically junk now anyway.

Your shaft can take the next size , get a Drill bit and tap to go one size up and have at it, ( it's not working now so there is no down side) I'm pretty sure it's a fine thread bolt If it was 3/8 - go to 7/16" the same depth , use a bottom tap for the final depth

If you need to jump it there is something wrong

I ran across something like this with a similar machine, took it completely apart and didn't find anything wrong, Found that it gets in a position at the crank angle and binds up, Forced it past that angle and started up and ran fine. Pull the plug and stick a long skinny rod on top of the...

Lots of knowledge on this site , welcome

Pull and clean the carb and all components of the fuel system , hoses , filters , tank etc. then retry

Never liked Craftsman mowers etc. but that's just me , never saw a plastic transmission but guessing it's up to spec.

You'll need to pull the cable off completely, Pull it tight around a round surface back and forth to break up the rust inside the cable sheath - you should be able to free up the inner cable and lube it up with some penetrant and or grease.

The numbers you have read are about right, why are you checking out the voltage to start with ? Has your battery been goin down? I've never heard of a higher output stator or the need for one but someone on this site may have. Are you looking at the output with the machine revved up ? I know...

Blow back through the fuel line , you should hear air bubbles in the tank , you'll probably get flow after this but you'll still need to clean out the tank , there is likely some trash in there that has worked its way to the fuel outlet

Did you manage to get any of the pullies off, or are they all stubborn ? Could possibly be left handed thread although I've not seen any so far on anything I worked on. If all else fails you may have to cut the nut off.

Use an impact and you can hold it easily with a rag or gloves

Unless the spindle housing is damaged , the bearings are very cheap and easy to change. Pull it apart and look at the number on the bearing - I usually pull the inner seal on the bearings and drill the housing to enable greasing the assembly. I think I got 3 pairs on amazon for under 20$

I pulled all my relays and re wired it from scratch, No safeties after this modification though.

Not sure what you mean by .007 1/4 past tdc

Clean up the Carb and re try

There are 2 levers on the backside that will allow you to push the mower or move it without running, when they're in the normal position you cannot move the machine manually , if they're in the bypass position you can move it but it will not move on it's own b/c the transmission is bypassed.

Did your transmission by pass get moved into bypass position ?

That's a sign of starving for fuel when you have to choke it to run, go back through the fuel supply starting with the tank vent

There should be a cable clamp that secures the cable so the internal rod can react with the choke plate

If it fires when touching off to ground , it's firing while installed. you may have a fuel problem or your key is sheared at the flywheel throwing off your timing

Safety switches interrupt the starting circuit so nothing happens when one of them is triggered , some are normally open and some are normally closed. If your machine is spinning and trying to start , it's not a safety switch problem yours sounds like a fuel issue, shoot some starting fluid in...

Check the ground connection first , then re install the module that was firing and see what direction that takes you , it's probably not a safety switch b/c it wouldn't even turn over.

Sounds like a fuel issue , start by looking at the filter first then supply lines that may be cracked or dry rotted then move on to the carb. It is not an ignition problem so concentrate on fuel

First prove it's the switch then either get a replacement or re wire if necessary , apply 12 volts to the selonoid terminal where the ignition switch hooks up , if it kicks in , you have a bad switch or wire then go from there Any starter switch will probably work , all you need is 12 volts...