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Jump 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid where the starting circuit ties in from the ignition switch , if it engages the solenoid then you have a bad ignition switch or wire in that circuit

Small gas engines can test your patience for sure

Might look at the fuel line - Can't think of anything else you might have over looked, " filter ?" Tank vent ?

I've rebuilt a number of them , not sure what " plastic " he's talking about unless it's the bearing seal I've gotten complete spindle housings from amazon a few times with good results, If you get the nut removed you can knock the bearing out and get a number off them and order replacement...

I would say yes since the connection is open now with the damage, tie together should satisfy the circuit

You'll need a test light or volt meter before going any further, see if there is 12 volts at battery terminals , one side of solenoid should have 12 volts for starters then check for voltage at the starter switch

I ran into one of these auto choke setups and couldn't find a replacement, I added a Primer bulb to shoot a bit of fuel into the carb and it starts easily with out a choke , next time you try and start it squirt some starting fluid into the air intake and see if it starts up for you. It sounds...

Well then it's a safety switch, There are several to look at, Seat Clutch engagement Brake for starters but looking at your pics - you'll need to chase down the mating wires for those 2 red guys - these will be on the opposite plug so find out where they go first and should get you going in...

If everything works I wouldn't worry with them , if something doesn't work , there's your answer

Kubota has a lot of parts that cannot be swapped out with other brands I noticed.

Coils can stop working after getting hot ,sorta rare but happens sometime , when it happens again , see if there is still a spark at the plug , if not it's probably the coil

If it's firing shoot a little starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts for a few seconds if it does then it's fuel and don't rule out the plug even if it's new

Make sue it's not fuel related first , your tank vent possibly is plugged off , then check for fire if / when it happens again , still have fire , it's fuel related In my opinion

Good to have the schematics to reference Thanks for your input

Safety switches will not let your starter engage so not a safety switch issue , clean the magnets good on the flywheel and the coil where it relates to the flywheel magnets. There is a ground wire at the coil you can pull off and see if it sparks then , if it does it's not the coil

Doubtful , it's most likely the carb float / needle valve not seating as Rivets said

Grease all the areas you can , some spindles have zerks most do not , sharpen the blades and go for it .

Idler pullys are wide to allow for some mis alignment , as long as the spring tension lets the pully float it should be good in my opinion.

The primer bulb should pull from the tank and produce a small squirt of fuel into the carb throttle body you should be able to see and feel this action , if not it's probably sucking air .Once the machine starts there is a diaphram type of fuel pump which sees a pulse from the crankcase action...

Auto parts will have a " small engine" area and will have something for you

Something must have slipped on that lever action I suppose, pictures would help - Maybe just swap the carb with a new, I just got one for 14$ or thereabouts on Amazon for my Briggs

Disconnect the cable first and see if it's moving freely , these cables rust up internally over time , if ends up being the cable , pull both ends off and pull it back and forth around something round and lube it up good , it should free up , or buy another

If it spins over good and smoke is coming out of the exhaust, you're getting fuel to the combustion chamber, if you need starting fluid to make it fire all the time you may have a compression problem

Clarify please

Most don't have shut off valves , Just pull the supply line and stick a plug of some sort in it , best to get an in line valve and install it at this point for later. Have it ready with hose clamps and you should be good to go

Not sure how old your battery is but they're not good for more than 2 season at best in my opinion. The magneto / rectifier rarely go bad but it's possible.. If you put a volt meter on the battery will the machine running near full throttle ,it should read 14 volts or better, A true alternator...

You're not going to get any help from Bad boy, from your description you have a carburator problem or fuel problem , if it will only run while choked , it's starving for fuel, change out your fuel filter and pull the line off at the fuel pump and see if it's flowing freely. Most machines do not...

If a safety was giving you problems the machine wouldn't even turn over , click or anything else so you don't have a safety switch problem in my opinion, The PTO switch needs 12 volts on one of the wires , use a test light and hook it up to ground and touch off on each terminal of the switch...

I doubt you have an alternator as such , you most likely have a magneto / rectifier with voltage regulator, If you have 12 volts and no action from the battery it's going to be a safety holding you out or a bad connection Jump across the two big terminals on your solenoid and if it responds by...

Pull the plug and try to roll it over , if it still will not turn over, this engine is most likely seized, your blades are moving freely but does not mean your engine is rolling over.

Well now you know it's a fuel delivery problem , I'd start at the tank and work down from there , fuel lines , filter ,then carb. some fuel lines can collapse internally and cause problems,

Sometimes a faulty ignition coil will cut out after getting hot and cause it to die, after cooling off it will fire again Next time it dies after mowing and will not start , check to see if it's still firing, this should give you an idea if it's ignition or fuel

I guess a better description of what exactly it's doing would be in order, Does it start up fine then run a while , start to miss then die out ? How long does it run before problems arise ? Is the new plug make it any better or does it stay the same ? Did you notice anything in the tank when...

Spec no. KT 745-3031 I pulled both Kill wires off and tried , found no spark , One of the plug wires was cut nearly in two , it appeared that side has not been firing off for some time b/c the plug was carboned up bad - I think this guy was running on one cylinder for quite a long time then the...

Well it's definatly fuel so go back through the carb and start over with cleaning etc.

Kohler KT 745 Serial no. 4506209833

No fire from the coils , pulled the ground wire off , cleaned and re set the gap on flywheel. It's odd but looks as if both coils failed , can't imagine what else it could be, Any ideas anyone ? Thanks

Look at the wiring for the PTO , from your description it dies as soon as you engage the clutch, Pull the plug off the pto and engage it again , if it kills the machine there is a short to ground from that switch and not the PTO assembly. If it kills the machine start chasing wires and see where...

Pull the seal and get a number off it

12 volts to key switch - from there go to the small terminal on your solenoid, battery cable to large terminal on solenoid, other side of the solenoid ( large terminal ) to starter lug. you'll need voltage supply to your voltage regulator from your key ( on ) position - the Off position on the...

I only try and help and think I usually do. Anyone posting here for help will take advise for what it's worth. I have no access to technical manuals etc. Only from experience. No need to bad mouth anyone here.

I know it's a new carb but sounds like it has a port that may be dirty , your tank might have trash in it

No downside to anything you've done, It may happen again since it's been bent once already.

Make sure it's not your clutch clicking on b/c your blade switch is in the on position , it will not let you start.

Make sure your air filter is clean or not stopped up with dirt, there may be an adjustment screw on that carb , most don't these days. Guessing you have clean gas , that E85 stuff can make it run rough . Might take the carb off and clean it up real good

99% it's Counter clock wise to brake it out , never saw one that is left handed thread

Woodruff key's are there mainly to protect your engine drive assemlby, Why yours they usually shear when you hit something solid and keeps you from bending a shaft or other damage. If it happens again you'll need to dig further to find out why

Sounds like it's still dirty, but carbs are pretty cheap so go for it I say

There are seals and bearings in that gear box , It's a pain to rebuild but I've done a few, Be real careful when tearing into it - there are shims and gears and bearings that need to come off the drive and driven shafts and need to be re assembled in a certain order.

You probably have a jet plugged in the carb, pull the needle valve and the seat , there is a jet under there that has very small holes , easily plug with small particles , you should be able to see through every hole when you hold up to the light.