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Carb cleaner does not have the lubricant to loosen it up, clean it up then use something like WD 40 and work it till it frees up and make sue it's not bent also

When you have it off the machine You'll be able to tell what's worn visually I'd imagine, clamp it tight and apply 12 volts via jumper cables or some such , one end to the housing the other just touch off on the connector, it will / should spin like hell and tell you something, you don't need to...

i have gotten several from amazon without problems

Pull it and lube it up, it's probably on it's last legs , starters are not very expensive , sounds like this one has given you about all it can .

Is this a mechanical PTO or Electric ? If electric I'm thinking you have a short to ground in the PTO circuit

I would get a ZTR with a Kohler or Kawasaki twin cylinder engine , Been using Bad boys for years with no problems, Not a fan of Kubota mowers might be just me but the ones I've had to work on were harder to service than the bad boys or Huskys

One is probably the ground, the other one is wired into the key switch - use a test light on the plus side of the battery and see which one makes the light come on, that will be the ground , now put 12 volts on the other smaller one , this will bypass all the safeties,,,,,ignition switch etc and...

There are 2 large terminals on the Solenoid , jumping across those will send 12 volts directly to the starter and it should spin,,,,,,,this only tells you the starter is good ,,,,,by jumping 12 volts to the small contact on the solenoid should make it engage and spin also ......if it does spin...

yeah

I hook one end where it's supposed to go and run a Sash cord around the other end and pull it with a heavy rod until it's stretched enough to get into the other fit,

There are 2 clicking noises you should notice, one--------in the on position ,,,,you should notice a click at the carburator fuel shut off solenoid ,,,,,,,,,,2 weather or not your machine is running you should hear a click at the PTO when you engage that switch,,,,,,,,,, 3 --- when you hit the...

I wouldn't think the seat is a problem - if it's using oil, maybe your valve guides are worn and I think they may be built into the block and not replaceable.

Not the PTO, look at all your connections , check for corrosion and clean up everything,

My usual reply here is " don't fix what aint broke" so I'd start there

Any time you have to engage the choke to keep it running , it's a fuel problem, start at the tank , fuel lines, filter, then fuel pump if there's one on that machine,,,,,,,then carburator. Post your results

It's all good now , glad you're going again

Well it either fires or it doesn't even if it looks good , if you ground the end and spin the machine you should see a spark , if no spark it may be a coil problem. The plug does look in new condition but it would look like that if there's no fire also.

If your belt is in good condition and tight , might take a closer look at your clutch , you never know Also look at the spindles and make sure there's no binding on any of them.

New blades maybe bigger strain on the belt , might need a new belt, if it's squealing and it's tight, Get a new one

The clutch has electric engagement so pulling the connection off takes it out of play , if it still binds up the engine so it will not start,,,,,,,, either you have a battery or connection problem or possibly an engine problem. It's possible the clutch is causing the problem but to be honest...

Pull the wires " connection " Off the clutch, Start your mower - this will eliminate the pto from your machine, if all goes well , let us know and we'll go forward from there, I've never seen a PTO locking up in all my previous mechanical issues. ----------- especially 2 times on the same...

We're going to need more information with your machine and it's issues before anyone can point you in the right direction

If you followed my post you should know if your solenoid / switch / or connection is the culprit

Hop 12 volts to the small terminal on the solenoid ,if it kicks into start, the solenoid is good but you have a bad switch or connection

Safety's ?

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

if it restarts again , you have a fuel delivery problem.

I've rewired a few machines and just did away with all the safety switches, makes life simple

No downside to adding an oil cooler

Battery operated Mowers will never hold up long term, IMOP- This Green Agenda is only lining some politician's pockets , Just my 2 cts

Garbage

Camshafts rarely wear out but it's possible no doubt, I've seen them with a " groove " worn into the hard surface which will effect the valve action - this would have to have a ton of hours to have happened, but today's quality control is iffy so nothing is off the table in this day and age...

Exhaust valves always have more clearance than the intake valves. The last one I did I think I set the intake at .006 and the exhaust at .010 - test compression after to see what you have

The cap is usually vented , you can just loosen it up and try and see if it makes a difference

Pull off the cable connection at the carb- Move the throttle lever by hand until full throttle position, then move the throttle cable to Max speed then clamp down at that point, Now move throttle control and check for full travel , your new cable possibly doesn't have as much travel as your old...

I suspect fuel issue , start at the tank and work down to the carb , make sure the tank is vented and fuel line clear

No the spark plug

Pull your plug and make sure the machine rolls over easily, if it dose not there is a mechanical issue with the crankshaft - con rod - valves etc. If it does then look at your starter

Pull the starter and bench test it, clamp it down tight and put battery voltage on it , it should spin like crazy and almost jump off the bench if it's good.

I don't have access to the wiring diagram but one of the places the run wire goes is to the kill solenoid under the carb.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch , after starter is engaged it should go back to On position sounds like it's going to off and grounding the coil

Sounds like a bad ground or battery connection

Nice

Oh will , I don't have access to all the data you seem to have hope he figures it out with your help and input

Put a test light on your starter switch and make sure it's seeing 12 volts, then turn it to " On " and see where the 12volts show up on which terminal , this one would go to the kill solenoid at the carb, then move it to the start position and find out which terminal makes the test light come on...

Once you set your throttle to any position the governor should take over , you should be able to see the governor assembly floating back and forth to manage the machines speed, if it does not, it could overspeed and cause lots of problems and actually throw a rod and tear up your machine. If...

The ground wire to the ignition coil is how all the safeties and ignition kill make the engine die no matter the color

Sounds like your kill switch wire is shorted out to ground , chase it back to the ignition switch , pull it off there and test to ground I'm betting you find continuity to ground - if so just run a new wire and you should be ok

How long have you had this machine ? You should be able to tell if the idler pully is not there, All decks have an idler pully to keep tension on the deck belt , it also should " Float " freely to allow a little play.

I would swap the switch out with another and see if the problem goes away, the internals of the switch can't be cleaned if they get corroded , it sounds like yours is Wonky