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The model number is CV23. At sometime that engine has been short blocked as 24 522 388 is a short block part number. The B style piston and ring set for a CV23 is 24 874 54-S.

Anything over 150 psi compression is good on a Command twin. The air you hear when pressurizing the cylinders is very normal. What is your compression cold?

Swapping them is a fairly easy way to possibly rule out the one module. If the dark plug stays on #1 it's probably not the module. Was old #1 spark plug also getting black like the new one? And unfortunately since Kohler uses a half moon flywheel key, simply taking the bolt out and looking at...

The ignition is timed to fire before TDC so the magnet being past the ignition module with that side's piston at TDC is normal. How much past is too much? That's a good question. Since the flywheel key needs to only be partially sheared to cause an issue there's really no way to tell by looking...

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If you don't have it all back together yet, pull the flywheel and check the flywheel key. The best way to get the flywheel off is to use a harmonic balancer puller. If you have an O'Reilly's Auto Parts, Autozone or similar auto parts store near, you can possibly borrow one with a refundable deposit.

If those new modules don't fix anything you still don't know what is wrong with it so don't give up just yet. It could turn out to be something minor. I need to clarify something I mentioned earlier about your symptoms sounding like it could be the Spark Advance Module or SAM. While not...

Hopefully the new ignition modules take care of it but just FYI, you'll have to find either a used one or someone with old stock as that 24 584 09-S spark advance module has been NLA for 5 years or so. The current fix is a conversion kit that includes a new flywheel and two new ignition modules...

This sounds more like a timing issue which would more point to the Spark Advance Module than the ignition modules. Or even a flywheel key.

I meant the engine ID tag. It has nothing to do with any of your personal info.

This was a known issue to Kohler and goes back to 1999 when they changed to the larger module. It only affected a small number of engines at the time so Kohler never offered a bulletin about it. Not many engines had a heavy duty canister air filter back then so I was thinking maybe that is what...

The crankshaft will actually get longer as the engine warms up and end play is there by design and is necessary to keep the crankshaft from seizing at it's thrust faces. Too little end play is normally more of an issue that too much within reason of course. Like Scrub pointed out from his chart...

You can check valve timing without opening the engine back up by checking valve over lap. Take out the spark plugs so you can hopefully turn the engine by hand. Remove one rocker cover and bring the piston on that side to TDC exhaust. If properly timed, valve overlap is what you get when the...

Did this guy give any thoughts as to where the stray power might be coming from? You didn't by chance catch his name did you? Battery hooked up correctly? Reversed polarity? Make sure there isn't a little minus sign in front of the 12.5 voltage reading. Just throwing it out there.

In what time frame? Are these 5 modules over years or do you put one on and it immediately fails? Are these genuine Kohler modules? Just going off what you posted I'd be checking for battery voltage on the white kill lead. It shouldn't have any.

Okay. I can't believe this wasn't the very first thing I asked you but, what was the reason for replacing the modules in the first place?

This is out of the Kohler CV twin manual so as you can see the fact that your new module is larger than the original is correct. Kohler did make that change. I don't believe it being an Amazon part is why it won't mount. It may why it doesn't work after you get it mounted or why it only lasts...

I don’t think it matters for fitment but are you mounting them with the two terminals on top? I did find where Kohler increased the size of the module when they superseded the 25 584 11-S to the 15-S and that was sometime in 1999.

I’m guessing those are aftermarket modules. Kohler doesn’t typically add the -S to the number on he part itself as you can see in the pic Star posted. Normally the -S is only on the box not the part itself.

Like has been mentioned you probably have a bad compression release but just a thought. If you have a compression tester you might want to check compression before you condemn the compression release. You'd hate to go to all the work of replacing a camshaft that didn't need replacing. You should...

Like Star mentioned, are those genuine Kohler parts? Kohler has been using the 24 584 36-S since 2003 and while they are physically larger than what they replace, I've never known of them not fitting. I assume they are hitting the intake manifold? Can't grind on that.

Sorry I'm no help on where to find a reamer and I know this wasn't your question but, the last time I priced a reamer it was cheaper for me to just buy a replacement part rather than to try and fix the failed one I had. Just my 2 cents. Now if your part is NLA or you think you'll need the reamer...

New parts have been known to be defective. If you believe the spark plug and coil are good, the flywheel is the only component left in producing spark.

You are correct. Y-ing into the breather hose will not work. One thing to remember is you're not looking for vacuum, you're looking for positive and negative pulses from the crankcase. If you drill the rocker cover, yes you will need to drill through the inner liner that holds the reed plate...

What's good? What are the numbers? If this engine has been properly maintained, 1500 hours is pretty much nothing. Properly taken care of, 2500-3000 hours is pretty common and 4000 is not unheard of. Sadly, very few take the kind of care it requires to get those kinds of hours.

I realize this thread is a week old but is it a wet oily foul or a dry foul?

Look closely at the holes for any sign of wear. Often the hole can tell you there used to be something in it. It may be as simple as the edges around one hole are slightly shiny where the other are not. Just a thought.

If you do find out it is a flat cam lobe and you are the original purchaser and you have a receipt showing the purchase date, I'd contact Kohler tech service and explain everything just like you did here. You can call them at 920-459-1579 or you can go to kohlerengines.com and leave them a...

Sometimes your choices are few and you have to move on but I'm disappointed we couldn't be much help to you on figuring this one out. I think you definitely ruled out carburetion.

The 24 012 26-S should be the camshaft. The oil pump # should be 24 393 53-S and like you mentioned it is discontinued. The only way to get an oil pump from Kohler now it to buy the complete closure plate assembly. Might check ebay for the pump. If I hadn't thrown them away I would have given...

This is why I was stumped when you loosened that restrictor screw and got no change better or worse. If you look at the attached drawing you'll see where the fuel flow path is from the bowl nut (yours might be adjustable I don't remember) up through the idle restrictor screw and then up to the...

I wouldn't bet my life on it but I believe the HM carb is different than the HH. I had forgotten about the nozzle on the HH but you're right. You were screwed if you removed that nozzle.

And you already answered this but I'm stumped as well so I'll ask if the cross hole and the end hole are for sure open?

Yes. It's a fixed restrictor screw. There is no adjustment. You just screw it in all the way for normal operation. It should bottom out in the hole and fuel should go through the restrictor hole cross drilled in the screw. When you loosen the screw, for test purposes only, that should let...

How far did you back it out? Maybe go a little bit more. Backing out that screw should richen things up.

Like Forest mentioned if you try to open that hole in the idle restrictor you normally only need to take out a tiny tiny bit. It's very easy to go too far. Cracking that screw loose with the engine running will let fuel go around that restrictor and let you know if enlarging that hole is...

With the engine running crack that screw loose just a bit and see if that helps anything.

Scrub, does your carb have a brass screw on the side?

Do you think it's something that we could hear if you posted a video?

Nothing to be sorry about. I just wanted to point it out because some find it frustrating when they take their time to try and help someone and the OP never posts back whether or not the issue was resolved.

There were a couple of exceptions but for the most part, Kohler CV Single cylinder engines used a 1”X3.16” crankshaft. The main difference was the threads were the bolt went in. Some were metric and some were SAE. The footprint would be the same. The other differences could be the charging...

Many of us have either done it come close to doing it but just FYI, you're responding to a 7 year old post.

Not sure where you might be on this at this point but the starter could seem to be good being tested with no load on it but could still fail under load. If the starter is fried you should be able to smell that. Sniff around the end of the starter where the cable from the solenoid connects...

In that 2 or so minutes that the engine won't restart, have you checked for spark in that time period?

The breather reed is where I was headed with my questions. I wouldn't enlarge the holes but make sure they are open. They are small for a reason.

Are you talking oil into the air filter area via the rubber breather tube?

Something I forgot to ask. Are you running the engine with the air filter off? If so, put the air filter hold down screw back in. Many of those older Briggs would run rich if you tried running them with that screw removed as it would let unwanted fuel come up through that open screw hole.

If I am understanding correctly then, yes. That spring needs to be attached to the diaphram as shown in the diagram below in for lack of a better term the U shaped area on two sides of the rod.

I just worked on my personal 1980 B&S 3.5 and used an aftermarket diaphram. It ran worse that it did before I worked on it. I got a genuine B&S diaphram and it now runs great. Yours may use a different diaphram as my carb is metal not plastic. Got the spring and cup on the carb side of the diaphram?

If you're not hearing the lifters clattering your oil pressure is probably okay. On the Command twins, lifter tick is usually the first sign of low oil pressure. You also won't see much oil running with the rocker covers off. There is no pressurized oil in the upper end. Are you torquing the...