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With the engine not running but the key switch turned to the on position, how much DC voltage do you have on the violet B+ wire? It should read battery voltage. If that violet wire did read battery voltage, did you have it connected to the voltage regulator when you were checking regulator...

Yeah, Walbro doesn't provide parts for carbs they build for Kohler. You have to get the parts from Kohler. Would you be able to provide the number right off the carb? It will be 12 053 and two more digits.

As a dealer no but as a rep I would. Paul and a lot of reps might not even know that screw was there. Typically, they would call me, before I retired, or one of my associates before signing off or denying a warranty. But all reps are different.

I wouldn’t have denied warranty if that screw were missing.

Good answer. Even a lot of seasoned Kohler techs don’t know that info.

I guess I'll sort of start over with my reply as I just gave my opinion on the question about the chunk out of the cylinder. If i found no other damage to the block and the bore was in good shape and ring travel did not enter into the broken area, I would have no problem trying get the engine up...

I agree with Bert that it will be fine. I would let the customer know what you found and let them make the choice on how to proceed.

You can simply flip it over. And whatever that goop is all over the mounting post, clean that off. The module and mounting boss need to be clean. Otherwise, the module can't ground properly.

Three different carbs all with the same result would lead me to believe that it's not a carb issue. Are you getting power to the fuel solenoid? Any possibility of posting a video showing how the engine acts?

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf?_ga=2.39984290.1859233433.1699765057-2120003328.1699765057 If I did this correctly and this link works, check out the ignition timing starting on page 8.2. It may help.

I use a brake drum puller.

Like ILENGINE mentioned, take a timing light and check the timing. Setting the points with a feeler gauge is just a starting point. Often times the point setting needs to be tweaked a bit to keep the ignition timing correct. I've seen K-series Kohlers burn a hole in the head when run out of time.

Just my 2 cents. When I know I'm about done mulching leaves for the year I switch from pump gas to Tru-Fuel or VP Fuel for the last couple of tanks. It's a little expensive but nothing gums up and everything starts next year without any issues.

Return the 25 707 03-S if you can and get the correct coversion kit 24 755 307-S Star mentioned. That is the only way to be sure it will work correctly. The 25 707 03-S will not work properly with your flywheel assuming it is the original factory flywheel. It will be out of time. If you look at...

Including a 20 amp fuse wouldn't be a bad idea.

You might already know this and I meant to mention it when you first talked about honing the cylinders. After honing them, wash the cylinders with hot soapy water and a stiff nylon scrub brush then rinse with plain water. It's the best way to get rid of the honing grit.

20 853 03-S supersedes to 20 853 86-S, is still available and is for a Courage single cylinder engine. If that is what ebay is saying they are incorrect. CV single cylinder carb part numbers begin with 12. See if that ebay search didn't lead you to a 12 853 03-S and not a 20 853 03-S. I've been...

It's sort of funny. When Kohler droped PartSmart and went to Kohler PLUS, many of the dealers were upset about it and never really liked Kohler PLUS. When Kohler changed to this new system, I told one of my colleagues, "I know a lot of dealers never liked Kohler PLUS but it won't be long and...

You can replace just one lifter. They used to come with a little tube of grease to put on the cam side. I assume they still do. Put a couple of drops of oil on the push rod socket side and a drop in the hole. Then run the engine at 1500 RPMs for 5 minutes. The lifters normally rotate but not...

And I know we talked about the flywheel too but since you're dealing with something elusive I thought it wouldn't hurt to know for sure you had DSAM. And you did. I'm trying to look under every stone.

It will probably turn out to be correct but I don't always trust Kohler's parts look up when it comes to carbs. Look at the number right on the carb. It will be 20 053 and two more digits. You might get lucky and find the last two digits aren't 23 but something else that's still available. I'm...

Let me ask a silly and probably useless question but, do you still have the spark advance module you took off this engine? If so, what's the number on it?

From what I see in the pics the cam lobes and lifters look fine. As far as the lifters being the same as a small block GM, they are the same external size but according to Kohler they oil hole sizes are different. I can't say if GM lifters will work or not. I've never tried. They might work...

Yes. A crack would allow the gear to slip and yes that should have been ruled out by checking overlap, but since you're in there I figured it couldn't hurt to take a look. And if you could clarify something for me. When you ran the engine on one cylinder at a time you said neither side would...

While you have it apart, look at the crankshaft gear very closely for anything resembling a crack.

How do the lifters look? Can you post a pic of the side that runs on the cam? And you don't want to change the cam if it's not needed obviously, but for a different reason than you may think. Kohler says to replace the camshaft and crankshaft together. Never just replace one. So you'd be...

Anything above 150 psi is good and your leak down test was good so the rings and cylinders seem good. I know there is the issue with some smoking on #1 cylinder but whatever is wrong seems to be affecting both cylinders. It sounded really good when you started it cold even at idle. I know the...

If you take it off you might be able to grab the rod and slide the support bracket sharply toward the flange sort of like a slide hammer a few times and see if that loosens it. Not too hard because you don't want to break that bushing in the support bracket. You might be able do something...

I would agree. It's an engine issue but all the tests so far aren't revealing anything. A collapsed lifter should cause less rocker arm movement and be noticeable. They all move the same, so to me, that rules that out. I'm going to bore you with a couple more questions. This is exactly how the...

Maybe tearing into it is the next step but to me, the things you've checked such as, compression and valve timing on top of new head gaskets says to me it's not internal. But it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong. Your valves may be opening a bit under spec but I don't think it's enough to...

Yes. You have to pull the black flange off the shaft and then reinstall it in a new position with just enough tension close the choke. And again, pull if off. Don't twist it.

Retiring two years ago, I worked 27 years for a Kohler distributor doing this exact thing for about 9 months out of the year. We dealt mostly with Kohler authorized dealers helping them with engine troubleshooting, parts help and warranty. That was a little easier than this because it was all...

Has it ever run right for you since you bought it?

I know you mentioned that all the valves were opening the same distance and sorry if I missed it but, how much are they moving? 3/8" or more? And with a single barrel carb feeding two cylinders, one spark plug on a Command twin is typically just a slight bit darker than the other. The...

I'm trying to figure out how to type this that it makes sense. What I am looking for is an exhaust restriction. I know your spreadsheet mentioned checking that but it may need to be looked at a little deeper. If there is restriction it builds up back pressure and can cause fuel to mist back out...

If this is the system you have, notice the item circled in red below and shown again in another picture below that. That black plastic flag I'll call it, is able to be removed from the shaft and can be turned to change the clock position to add spring tension when the spring gets older and...

Yes it is a sealed thermostatic spring coil unit on the muffler but there has to be some mechanism that partially opens the choke before the spring unit on the muffler gets warm enough to fully open the choke. The early Kohler XT engines used a vacuum diaphram pull off or relief to do that...

I'm an engine guy so I'm no help with the hydros but were you able to look for any fuel mist blowing back out of the carb? And is the problem only with the blades engaged?

Okay what do we know? Compression is good. Ignition and valve timing are good. Carb is good. Governor is working as it should as proven by your string. So that tells us that the engine is trying to provide more RPMs by going to wide open throttle but won't speed up. Too much external load is a...

Something I forgot to ask. Does the engine appear to run fine with no load? Any signs of fuel mist blowing back out of the carb?

There is quite a bit of clearance. I don't think I've ever seen a valve on a Command twin get smacked by the piston.

Click on the link attached below. It will take you to another thread about no timing mark. Once there, go to post #10. I posted a process there. There is also a video attached there showing what valve overlap should look like. A quick description would be, take both spark plugs out so you can...

Sure. Can you answer me one question first please? Did you remove the flywheel to check the flywheel key?

This first bit has nothing to do with your issue but a little extra info for others possibly looking at this thread for their own issues. There are actually three conversion kits for the Kohler Command twin variable timed ignition systems. There are two kits for converting ASAM ignitions that...

Thanks for letting us know it's up and running. It's nice to know an issue got solved.

If you’re getting 13.8 or better at the battery, the regulator is grounded. Sounds like the charging system is fine.

What do you have at the battery with the engine running full speed? It should be between 13.8 and 14.7 VDC. If you have that, then the charging system is working correctly. If lower than 13.8 turn the engine off and then turn the key back to the on position. Unless you have a 20 amp charging...

Curious, what did you check between the regulator body and engine block? Thanks.

I'm fascinated with all of the answers to questions nobody asked.

This engine uses a vacuum choke pull off doesn't it?