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A couple of things.... Based on the info you've provided, I believe your engine likely has the stator for a Tri-Circuit type alternator. I say this because it puts out 28VAC and has to provide more than 3A. If it was just the simple DC 3amp output type, as Bert said, this couldn't be used on...

When you were cleaning the 'ungrateful jets', did you just use a fluid/spray and/or did you physically run a wire/microdrill/torchtip cleaner through the main jet up through the bottom of the emulsion tube? If you did that then just ignore this post! I just fixed a surge problem with my 33"...

With today's push for electric vehicles, what I find interesting is that prior to 1908 when Ford introduced the inexpensive model T, more than half the cars on the road were electric! The model T was less than half the price of the average electric at the time and when Kettering's starter was...

With all do respect, JD technical manuals are not available on manualslib.com. Perhaps I'm just not smart enough to find them! (a distinct possibility in my old age..LOL) For example the manual for the D105 is JD part number TM113219. Search for any of the following: "John Deere", "JD"...

Just wanted to mention that this thread is from 2018! Also, JD Technical Manuals are not online and available for free download. They aren't cheap, but they are very well written and worth the investment IMHO, if you own a JD tractor and are going to keep it. FWIW!

Terrific news! I'm fairly certain JD runs that power thru the hour meter as a cheap and dirty way to keep the average person from just unplugging it to 'save time'. Their warranty is based on both years and engine hours so if someone just unplugs it to save on the hours, it won't start because...

A couple things just to note. Your magneto is spec'd to output 12 VAC on the kill tab. The hour meter uses this to know if the engine is running or not(the white wire going to the hour meter #405). The hour meter does not increment with just the key on and 12 VDC present. The engine must be...

Just to clarify, this is NOT a points machine. I happen to have a 31R977 on my bench and with the coil removed, the resistance from the kill terminal to the laminations is 1.6 ohms(using a Fluke 87-V) as suggested earlier. I'm guessing Aimme that when you measured from the kill tab on the...

Your interpretation of the schematic w.r.t. the RIO switch(S6 on your schematic?) is correct! That switch is only closed when in reverse. The RIS switch(S4 on your schematic?) is the push button on the dash which activates the RIO latching relay(K1 on your schematic?). FWIW, I suspect JD...

Correction: (I thought the D100 had the CVT auto trans but it doesn't! No drive pedal!) Your engine will die the moment you shift in reverse (with the blades engaged) unless you press the RIO button first!

The RIO [Reverse Implement Option] switch is the yellow push button on the dash just below the throttle lever on the left. If you have the blades engaged and you shift to reverse, the moment you press the drive pedal, the engine will shut off. You must press the yellow RIO button before...

If you go to the Troy-Bilt website page for your rider, there is a 'hotlink' to the Assembly Instructions. You can take a look at what's involved! LTL stands for 'less than truckload' which is used when shipping smaller amounts of things. Hopefully they'll be bringing it in a truck with a...

It is likely a 31R series (my JD D105 has a 17.5 hp b&s). Mine is a 31R977 and for giggles and grins I went to the B&S site, and looked at several of the 31Rxxx IPL's and they all use the same cam (793880). FWIW, Kelly

Your original post said you had a "160t" and I made the leap of faith that the "t" was a typo and you had a plain old 160 with a Kaw engine, for which the relay is intended. Can you please post the engine #s for us. I believe the lt160 is fitted with a Kohler. Also it would be helpful if you...

After ensuring the battery is load tested and good(and cleaning all connections as stated above), try jumping across the solenoid and see if the starter engages properly. If it does, measure the voltage between the solenoid trigger wire and ground when you are trying to start. It's possible...

Just to be clear, did you measure the voltage when the trigger wire is connected and you are in the start position as Star suggested(in other words under load)? If you have 12v and the solenoid is not engaging, there are 2 possible scenarios. One, the solenoid is bad(I realize you are on your...

I have a D105 and the choke is engaged when the throttle is pushed up past the WOT detent. I agree with Bert. Loosen the cable clamp and move the cable a bit to the right and tighten. In this case there isn't a separate choke cable; it's integral to the throttle cable as Scrub alluded to...

Check your fuel pump output to the carb. Pump can be bad and by blocking the air intake you are using engine vacuum to suck fuel in, and the pump is doing nothing(even though it works on vacuum pulses from engine...when it's working!) Good luck!

I am not sure if you replaced the battery but if you did not, yes you can appear to charge a battery that's bad and it will show proper voltage until you put a load on it and it drops to a very low value. A simple test of this is to put your meter (not the test light) right on the battery...

You can locate the treasure-trove of Tecumseh manuals here: https://www.barrettsmallengine.com/tecumseh/manuals.html May I suggest you specifically look at 1) Basic Service and Troubleshooting information, 2) 3-11 hp L-head manual(this is the Technician's Handbook), and if you 'veg' out on...

What happened to the dogs!

We happen to have been typing at approximately the same time. The short answer is Yes 0.65A is OK! Just means you have nicely charged battery!

Bentoolong, you are correct in saying if your battery charge was lower, you'd see a higher current. Briggs puts a couple asterisks next to the spec of 2-4A for this dual circuit system(and others) and states that the current is dependent on battery voltage and "if the battery voltage is at it's...

What you describe sounds like your unloader valve is not opening. The unloader can be set to open at too high a pressure or it's stuck closed because of mineral buildup. I see that all the time. When you are starting your unit without pulling the wand trigger, the pump must overcome the...

Fred, as StarTech mentioned, the order of the gaskets and diaphragms is important because they are different on either side of the carb. You can see that on the parts breakdown pic above. In the pic, note that the metering diaphragm gasket(13) goes against the carb body first, then the...

Here's the thing to keep in mind. With a higher current load like a PTO that draws say 4 amps or so, having just 1 ohm of additional resistance due to corroded connections, switch contacts dirty etc, can keep it from pulling in. Here's the math. A typical PTO may have a resistance of 3 ohms...

When you run it, check for any emission of smoke when you move to WOT and/or the same when you back it down to idle. If yes, then the head gasket is likely blown(between the cylinder and the push rod galley), a common occurrence on that Briggs motor. Good news is it's an easy fix although the...

Here is a follow-up pic confirming my suspicion of a blown head gasket in the JD 105 I bought. Only 88 hours on the machine. (Briggs 31XXXX single cylinder OHV engine) FYI!

Time is of the essence! Don't keep running it or you could end up seizing the motor. I purchased just today at lunchtime a beautiful 2015 D105 with a seized engine. Owner indicated the problems started with the white smoke. I fully expect to find a blown head gasket right between the...

The good news Peter is your charging system looks to be working fine. Don't get too worried about a few tenths of a volt. Scrubcadet is right. The voltage will drop back down to 12.6 (in a perfect world with a new battery) over a bit of time when charging is stopped. Problems with batteries...

Peter, I would strongly suggest doing the simple charging system test with the new battery, if that's one of the things you didn't do prior, before declaring victory. Key off, measure batt voltage, engine running at regular operating speed, measure batt voltage. Measurement 1 = approx 12.5...

Post #13 is key here. He verified in that post he's seeing a 6V drop in the positive chain when trying to start. As others have mentioned, you need to take your meter and ground the - lead and work your way back from the solenoid to the battery and measure the voltage on each side of every...

Following up on Berts recommendation, the quick and easy check of the alternator is to measure the battery voltage with the machine completely off. You measured 12.6 before which is as expected. Now start the unit and run at full throttle; measure the battery voltage while running. If it's...

Quickest way to test the starter is to jump around the solenoid. IOW, jump the battery side to the starter side. If the starter turns over, the starter is likely not the problem. The next thing I'd do is remove, clean and reconnect the wires at the battery, solenoid, and starter. Also, don't...

"Primer ball will not pull fuel. Pulled line off, plugged it. Holds pressure." So, what happens when you push the primer bulb? If it's not sucking up fuel into itself, is the bulb remaining depressed? Also, what line are you pulling off(and where at) and seeing it hold pressure? With all the...

I too had to laugh at 'calculator disease'! The form of it I witness these days is when someone 'fat-fingers' the buttons and is confident in whatever number is displayed, not thinking at all about how reasonable the answer is, and will defend it "because the calculator says so, it's gotta be...

Now Star, you aren't admitting to operating 245 watts above the legal limit on 11m are you? LOL! I'm sure you meant 10m wink-wink! [I'm more of a pair of 3-500Z's running 4,000 VDC on the plates!] Some final comments on the charging circuit for those who may be unfamiliar. Current only...

Keep in mind that your meter is reading basically an average value of current when you are in the DC amp mode. When the spec is 2-4 amps, that is essentially a continuous average, not a pulsed amount. A battery acts like a big electrolytic cap and if you put a scope on the battery, you won't...

It's worth noting that the IPL for the engine # provided does not call out a 790292 regulator. FWIW.

I agree with Hammer....it looks like you have the 696459. The black wire is the AC source for the headlights. Measuring from the black wire to ground should yield 14 VAC at WOT(wide open throttle ~ 3600rpm). As you can see in the picture of the 696459, a diode is incorporated into the red...

Actually, if you look close, the original has two as well. You should be good to go!

Bert, what did you mean when you said a corroded wire will ohm out fine?

Sounds like it could be an automatic choke problem (assuming this engine uses one). Please post the Briggs engine numbers. You can pull the air filter and look at the choke butterfly and see if it's open or closed while it dies.

slomo, what you are pointing out is the difference between "electron current flow" and "conventional current flow". Most folks who haven't been trained otherwise, are much more familiar with "conventional current flow" where "current" flows from positive to negative which is why I explained it...

I would take a moment to pull the flywheel cover and make sure the autochoke components are there and working properly (air vane, thermostat, return spring). I just had a unit like yours in my shop and it had a thick mouse nest under the cover causing the engine to remain in full choke all the...

StarTech... earlier you posted a diode recommendation. That diode is undersized for this application. The dual circuit alternator uses a 6amp 200PIV diode in the harness as it is intended to charge the battery at 2-4 amps DC. The diode you spec'd is only rated for 3 amps continuous forward...

The red butt connector end is attached to the wire coming from the engine alternator. The female spade connector end is what connects to the battery side of things. FWIW, the anode lead of the diode is connected to the red butt connector and the cathode lead of the diode connects to the...