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I would agree that if you are having to pay someone to do all the work, it is likely not worth it. However, it can be very beneficial and satisfying if you have the capabilities and tools(nothing fancy) to do the work yourself. I bought a JD D105 with a blown 17.5 B&S in otherwise mint...

Forgot to mention, if it is a rod replacement, when you have the piston out, pull the rings and check ring gaps. Since you have it apart, ring replacement is a no brainer if needed!

Have you considered repairing the existing engine? Do you know why it seized in the 1st place? Low oil perhaps? If it's just a matter of the rod seized to the crank, and the piston/rings/cylinder are OK, the repair is pretty basic. Get the rod cap off and double check if piston is free. The...

No hate intended but I have to respectfully disagree with the assertion that the blade should be like a knife. It's well documented on the inter-webs as to the reasons why too sharp is not preferred so I won't repeat them here. A quick search will answer why. Suffice it to say, 'butter knife'...

The way the circuit works normally is you push the dash button and then switch into reverse. Then you can let go of the button. The button energizes a latching relay(K3 in diagram) until you shift out of Reverse which drops the relay out. Electrically, there are 3 basic components to check...

I thought I'd share my 2 cents. If the cylinder and rings were not the issue, and it was the rod freezing up on the crank, I'd offer the following caution (that comes from experience). My experience with this is you can free it up and think all is good but beware! Every engine I've repaired...

I switched to a 60 grit flap disc from a grinder wheel years ago and haven't looked back. So much easier to deal with the irregular contour on the majority of blades I deal with. Very fast on most blades. I also don't try and make it so I can shave with it! Just my 2 cents!

The Briggs service manual you need is the Single Cylinder L-Head # 270962 The good news is you can easily find it here on the interwebs for no charge. Good luck!

This info assumes you have a 2 cycle! Your mileage may vary! In my experience, check that the tank filter is not plugged. Make sure the fuel lines are not rotten and that the tank filter is still attached to the line in the tank. Pull the carb and buy a diaphragm/gasket kit(usually under $10)...

Thanks guys. First, the idle screw on mine is definitely adjustable as you can see in the pic. I think the new Briggs replacement is not adjustable (as well as the cheap Chinese knockoffs that cross to this). I think they are as Star describes. Second, I don't know how the main jet we've...

Thanks for the reply. I have a couple sets of micro-drills and I use a hand-held pin vise with them. As you indicated, I too have had kinda 50/50 luck with ultrasonics. One last question. I've taken a closer look at the pics of the 498298 replacement carb and, like your pic above, I see the...

I have the adjustable idle screw.

498298 (missed a digit)

Sorry for the confusion Rivets. I'm referring to the nozzle that is drawing fuel from the aux tank into the carb body. That has a brass insert with a small orifice which I assumed, perhaps wrongly, was the "fixed main jet". If you look up a Briggs 49828 on their store and look at the bottom...

I thought I'd make one more observation since Star mentioned this may not be the original carb. When I look at a Briggs 498298 carb, it does indicate for example, that it is a sub for the part (492611) that is listed in each of two IPL's (new from current B&S site and original/old) I have for...

I thought I'd make one more observation since Star mentioned this may not be the original carb. When I look at a Briggs 498298 carb, it does indicate for example, that it is a sub for the part (492611) that is listed in each of two IPL's (new from current B&S site and original/old) I have for...

Thanks guys. Yes Rivets I'm positive it's plugged. I have it in my hand and it's real easy to blow on the pickup and no joy. (I agree 90% of the time it's a bad diaphragm and/or a dirty/plugged tank pickup screen. Otherwise they are pretty bulletproof. The diaphragm in this carb was toast...

Engine is a 5HP Briggs horizontal shaft I/C engine. 132212-0362-01 Carb part number: 492611 It utilizes a fixed jet in the pickup and mine is plugged. The engineer in me would like to know what the actual jet size is and then I can run a micro-drill in to clean it out. Based on my...

Thanks Mark. As you're probably aware the current IPL from the B&S site doesn't have a cover sheet like the old IPLs do. Very enlightening!

I acquired a Giant Vac leaf blower with a 5hp engine that has an I/C decal on it. I'm trying to determine if it's really an I/C engine. The engine info: 132212 0362 - 01 88060607 I looked in the service book for L heads(270962) at the 'decoder' page and I don't see where they specifically...

Existing hose is likely clogged. Mine clogs 1 a year or so. Dust buildup as water drains. Check it out.

FWIW, I'll give you an example that goes to what Slomo suggested. I had a customer with a Craftsman tractor with the gas tank just under the front shroud. The space between the fuel cap and the dashboard was relatively tight and as a result collected grass clippings and more importantly dead...

I think it's interesting they redesigned the idle jet positioning. Anybody know if they increased the main jet size on the new design? What I see the most is the main jet gets partially or fully clogged and it happens often. I used to use a micro-drill to clean the existing jet size but due to...

Lego.. The transmission is made by General Transmission and it's a model RT400. A service manual as well as troubleshooting info is available on their site. There are several YT vids out there too. There's good news. If the tranny is moving in forward or reverse at all, it is not an internal...

The D105 uses the plastic CVT tranny.

Pay particular attention to the rod journal on the crankshaft. Look for aluminum deposition(buildup) on it from the excessive heat during the first failure. That can be removed pretty easily with muriatic acid. You can Google that for more details. I can tell you from experience that if you...

This probably goes without saying but because I have my share of 'old-man' moments, did you have the 'master control lever' pushed down off the STOP position(which is the ignition kill position) while performing your test(s)? FWIW.... Good Luck!

Star, I tried the link to the RT400 manual and it doesn't come up. What I was able to do was right click on the link and then select 'Copy link address' and paste it into a new Google Chrome tab and hit return. Then it came up. FWIW.... Thanks!

Are you ruling out just purchasing the one meant for the D110? Even if it's an older D110, it seems like investing $350 for the bagger and $0 for the tractor, you are still waaaaaay ahead of the game. I understand if the Lt155/Lt160 is free or a low price but given the Lt155 was made from...

Bio, please PM me your email address and I can give you an electronic copy of the JD Technical Manual for your D100. This TM covers your tractor and not my D105 so I don't need it. It's almost 50Mb so will have to go through GoogleDrive. If you are interested...

Ok, this will be my last post to this thread. I've laid out the specifics and I'm sorry Star but you are wrong also. Making it so you have to drop the deck to grease is well, foolish and mostly a waste of time if all you want to do is hit them with a shot of grease. For God's sake, JD put...

MParr, you are wrong in this instance for the spindle closest to the chute. Look at the pic on p 29 I referenced. That right hand cover completely blocks access to the rear. Where you see the "C" coming in from the right is exactly where the fitting needs to be pointed. There are openings...

I need to correct one of my previous comments. Something seemed fishy to me staring at the pic so I double checked the exact position on my D105. What better to do at 2:30 am LOL! The spindle farthest from the chute needs rotated 90 deg clockwise as viewed from the top. Both then are easily...

I've attached the relevant pages here(from the Operator's Manual). Take note in the picture at the top left of page 29 where they point to the grease fittings on the spindles (items labeled 'C'). The one on the spindle closest to the chute should point sideways toward the chute and is accessed...

Put this in the FWIW category! I have 2 versions of the JD Technical Manual for the D100-D170 machines. [The difference is age. The older one does not have my D105 in it because it wasn't out yet. The newer one does] I reviewed the sections in each regarding spindle R&R and there is no...

You can buy a 10 tool set on ebay for around $16 w free shipping. (search 'carburetor tools') I bought one of these sets and they've worked fine for me.... fwiw!

I'm here ROTFLMAO! You echoed my sentiments on RPN! Never bought an HP and to this day, I'm positive I still couldn't figure out how to properly enter a formula! (I love their test equip though) That's one thing I'm comfortable going to my grave never having learned! RIP RPN Star, that's...

C'mon Hammer, it's like riding a bike....multiply two numbers using the C and D scales! Mine was the last engineering class in 1976 that the "slip-stick" was taught....a time when the TI SR-50 was the coveted dream machine calculator! For the record txmowman, nobody is 'puffing their shallow...

Just like some folks with calculators..... 3.141592654 has to be the answer...'cuz the calculator says so'. I tutor high school kids in math and can't tell you how often this occurs these days! We had a Senior Vice President at the automation company I worked for stand up in front of a large...

I couldn't agree with you guys more! The simpler the better which is what I described(as you and others have) in post 14! However, the engineer in me finds it hard to ignore posts that contain untruths and/or misunderstandings. I treat these forums not only as a way to solve an individual's...

Just to be clear txmowman, please take a look at the references I cited. They specifically state those particular units put out unregulated 14VAC. That's the stator output prior to any rectification or regulation. As Star indicated, your meter typically is reading RMS (root mean square)...

With all do respect to txmowman and ozpete, it is not true that all alternators put out 26v minimum. One need only look at the chart I shared earlier, and specifically the 3rd row. You will note that the AC voltage output is shown in the chart. Those 4 put out 14VAC at WOT. If you'd like a...

Keep in mind that alternator is DC only and rated at 3 amps(2-4 on the wall chart). What makes it DC only is the fact they put a diode in series with the output wire which acts as a half-wave rectifier of the AC voltage being produced by the stator. They don't provide an AC voltage spec...

Forgot to mention, I have the Operator's Manual and schematic for the PM1500. I have a PM800 and both are covered. Interesting though, the Op Man which includes a parts list and diagram list the engine in the PM1500 as the FA130D (not the KF34). The manual is from Feb 89. You may still find...

Rivets, the manual is on ebay right now for $10.99 w free shipping. Here is title: OEM Kawasaki KF24 KF34 KF53A KF68 Engine Workshop Manual 99924-2001 FYI....

I have a 170 and examined the linkages without actually taking anything apart. There is a spring which connects between the lower part of the governor arm and the throttle bracket assembly. The governor arms connects directly to the carb throttle with both a solid link and a long thin spring...

The good news is you have a 9 amp stator. The reg/rect you ordered will work fine with this stator. As said previously, just make sure when you mount it, you make a good ground connection with its case. Obviously, remove both diodes there now when you install it!

GoHard, what color is the wire from the stator? If it is a 3A DC system then the wire color would be red(usually) and the original wire would have had the diode in line right at the connector and the connector itself would(usually) be red. If it's one of the higher current output stators(5A...

Oh I believe you did Star. I'm curious based on what you've seen in your shop, if you see that as the exception more than the rule. IOW, do you see many low (3A) alternator systems on machines with PTOs? That PTO is spec'd at 3 ohms which means it's pulling 4 amps@12v(fuel solenoid is a...