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Set the float so it is slightly lower on the side opposite the float pin.

If it is brand new have the dealer fix under warranty. You said that the choke is fully closed, but did you visually check that it is closing all the way?

When you cleaned the carb, did you remove the idle jet, under the black plastic cap, and make sure it was open in both directions? Also, did you replace the float needle and seat, part 631021 and rest the float level slightly rich?

With an engine that old and not running, the first thing I would do is to remove the carb and rebuild it with a new float needle and seat.

Don’t understand why a dealer would not have that part. Might be a problem for some, but a good Toro dealer can use a little imagination to solve that problem. Don’t know why they wouldn’t have it, but as I’ve said before, the boneyard is your friend. I’ve got no problem using a used part, as...

Why not go to an authorized Toro repair shop and pay $1.50 each? Support your locals.

Very uncommon to find them worm. Only found worn pawls once or twice. When I did I just went to one of my bone yards and found a used starter to get them from.

I’ll bet they say replace thr starter.

More that likely the starter pawls are either worn or gummed out. Depending on your expertise and experience they can be cleaned or replaced.

See if one of the diagrams this site will help you out. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/26909/level/2/snp/MjQxNjk3OkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDc4NTI6I0NBVEFMT0csMjY5MDk6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ%3D%3D

If it came to me that way I would spray a lot of PBlaster into the cylinder, stand it on end with the spark plug up, making sure liquid gets to all sides of the piston. When I’m sure set it down and wait for 2 days for the PBplaster to do its job. Now I would put a 5/8” six point socket on my...

That wire probably has no part of the non starting problem. You need to find out whether it has spark and/or fuel. Get an inline spark tester to check for spark. If you have spark, spray a small amount of carb cleaner into the cylinder and see if you can get it to pop. Let us know what you find.

Next time it happens check for spark. No spark means you have a coil which either opens or shorts when it gets hot. Time to replace coil.

Yes, you must remove from below, as the gear is part of the shaft.

Most times they are worn to the point that if you don’t replace both at the same time you’re being penny wise pound foolish. I would also replace both bushings. Page 34 of this manual will show you the parts, with part numbers. https://www.thepowerportal.com/ipls/ipl.htm?md=1693601~_IPLURL_LO.pdf

I grind them at a 30 degree angle.

What would you call a mechanic who snips off plastic plungers? A fool, nin-cum-poop, dumb, crook, mentally challenged, lazy, stupid, etc. Take your pick, these guys should have their monkey wrench taken away, they’re dangerous.

I’m fairly sure that the Kohler part number for that Nikki carb is 22-757-04. Star, would you double check this for me? Before you go purchasing any parts I would confront that mechanic about his repair. He should be the person paying for the repairs. I’m not sure he will fess up to his...

The BOS system you eliminated uses a plastic belt guard. 107-7488

I doubt that cover will work on a unit set up for a BOS system. Why not just used the plastic guard you removed?

If you want to have gaskets which will probably dry out before you use them, but multiple gaskets. Just a waste of money, unless you service at least two carbs a week. Penny wise, pound foolish.

I understand what you are saying Star, but I don’t believe for a second the the unit came with a solenoid which had a clipped plunger. As you stated some idiot DIY guy did that. Second, the mechanic who installed the shutoff valve is also an idiot, because he shouldn’t have known to check the...

Sorry, but you are wrong in blaming Cub Cadet for this problem. You should be blaming your repair shop, as this problem is simple to diagnose and repair. Putting in a fuel shutoff valve is a sign of a DIY guy who is in over his head. Your should have realized that when it didn’t fix the...

Our crystal balls have become very cloudy, due to the recent elections. You are not giving us much info to help you. We have no idea how old this unit is, which engine it has, or if you have done anything to solve the problem besides changing the relay? With out unit model and serial numbers...

Did you remove the nozzle and make sure all orifaces are open? The other thing I’ve found is that the bowl gasket is twisted and not sealing. Do you have the numbers for the used carb. I’ve found when trying to get NLA carbs off FleaBay, you have only a 25% chance of getting what you want...

I’m guessing you have a carb problem. If it can to me with this problem the first thing I would be disassembling the carb a check the float level. I’m thinking you will find that it is to high. I would start by setting it slightly low and see it the problem continues. Please post the part...

Don’t you understand that spellcheck changes weeds to “we end”. Sorry about that.

I’ve been using a product call Strike-3, formerly Triplet, for the last ten years and have found that it kills only the we end, never the grass. Must be careful as it will also take out the betterhalfs flowers and lower portions of evergreens. Follow directions. Last year neighbor put in a...

Little grease and a needle nose pliers, is my go to.

If it came to me this is what I would be doing. Needle and seat replacement. Remove the carb, and then remove the float bowl. Check the float bowl jet (which is the bowl screw) and make sure the jets both horizontal and vertical are clean and open. Tip the carb upside down and remove the...

Please post some pictures of the engine drive and wheel drive. We need to see what you are dealing with. If you use your phone to take the pictures, you will need to down size the pictures before you will be able to attach them.

Please the model and serial numbers off the silver ID tag located on the rear of the deck. This will help us better see which engine you are dealing with.

Guessing at head bolt torque will result in a blow head gasket very quickly. Most auto parts store have a free loaner program where you can get a torque wrench for free. There are very specific reasons for properly torquing boors and all the experienced techs on this forum will say, “ DO IT...

Maybe this manual on the Loncin Twin will help you out. https://www.toro.com/getpub/117255

Time to open the manual I attached earlier and using section 7-1 to troubleshoot your problem. Costs less than throwing parts at it.

Do you have any small engine boneyards with 100 miles? If you do you may find a few scav engines which you can frankenbuild into one good unit. If not what about shops in your area who take trade ins or allow people to dispose of used equipment. When I was teaching my students, who were short...

Most often the cause is a small stick or mulch gets caught, causing the belt to jump off. I’ve seen this very often. Just replace the belt, because most times you will find the belt burnt. No reason to open the gearbox.

I forgot to add that if you bought the solenoid off Fleabay or AutoScam, there is a good chance that it may be bad. That is the first component I would be checking.

Can’t help you unless you provide us with the model and serial numbers off the ID tag.

That is an engine part. Post all engine numbers and we should be able to get you the proper part number.

This is confusing to me, I’m a Toro guy so I did a little more digging, I found the service manual I knew was out there. It has a wiring diagram and very good explanation of how the system works and how to test each component. Hope this helps. https://www.toro.com/getpub/78978

Your engine came with a Tillotson carb #RK-18HU. I’ve attached a Tecumseh service manual which has a good breakdown of the carb and service instructions. I agree with you, because of its age, probably needs a good cleaning and rebuild. Post back if you need more help...

I can’t find a wiring diagram, but it is a simple setup. You should have a three post solenoid, two large terminals and one small one. One large terminal should have the battery + cable coming to it. Othe large terminal should have a battery cable connected to it going to the starter. Small...

Model and serial numbers are located on the ID tag mounted on the frame under the seat.

The 5239 carbs I’ve looked at use a plastic carb bottom. You have have a metal Tecumseh carb. To remove this drain you must hold the bottom of the bowl so you can hold the drain in place with your finger. With a finger on your other hand push up on the retainer depressing the spring. When...

I don’t know what you mean by bowl drain. Please explain what you mean. Here is a service manual for your engine. https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball10.pdf

Not a hard repair if you have the patience.

Everything can be brought back to life, depending on how much time, money and patience you have. PS. I like how those rear tire wheel weights are mounted on the Toro Z.

Have you checked both the primer line and fuel lines for cracks? With the age of this unit, I suspect they are not in good condition. If you post back please post the Tecumseh engine numbers so we can see if it has a Walbro Orr Tecumseh carb.

From your limited description I suspect that you wired the solenoid wrong. Please post the serial number so I can find a wiring diagram for you.