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The delete with flywheel retrofit to the MDI ignition is the one recommended by Kohler for the CV25 engines.

Also need to look at the charge pump cover itself. Is it cast iron or aluminum. If aluminum it will need to be replaced with the cast iron charge pump kit due to the aluminum cover warping which is what causes the leak.

Could be the spring that tensions the belt on the transmission pulley could be getting weak, or the belt idler arms or the variable pulley slide is getting hung up and not moving freely.

OP list 2002 in the title which most likely will translate to the CV25 engine with the ASAM. ASAM has been out of production at least 10 years, so finding even a good used one will be difficult, and the DSAM cannot be substituted.

With the MTD variable speed pulley system both belts have to be replaced as a set otherwise things don't sync properly and will lead to problems. Also make sure the variable speed pulley isn't sticking in one position which will also limit your speed.

The SAM and the modules should have a part number on them. That may assist is looking up parts and/or bulletins relative to your engine.

I always said we need to split our elected officials into 2 groups. The group we hang and the group we drown. I would say we should send that group to firing squad, but ammo it too expensive to waste on their worthless souls.

If you are loosing spark after running the engine, I would be replacing the coil since it sounds like it is experiencing heat sink failure. And the model and serial number from the tag would contain the info we need to assist with parts. Generac likes serial numbers for the parts lookups on...

Correct, Those engines don't come with exhaust. But for the 35 HP vanguard horizontal shaft you are basically limited to 3 mufflers The 846246 mid mount oil filter side discharge or the 845741 high mount starter side discharge and the 846154 high mount center discharge. Pick one that...

The serial number of your scag would assist us in looking up the correct version. But from what I am finding it appears Scag is suggesting that you need to use the muffler supplied by Briggs for that engine.

Have had plugs were you could twirl the ceramic in the metal shell. Also the ceramic is porous and since most plugs are slated more toward EFI systems anymore they no longer have a sealant coating. Therefore the ceramic will absorb gas when you flood the engine, and gas is conductive...

Nothing will make you pull more hair out then a champion plug. The only plug that used to list a 25% misfire within acceptable range of operation in their spark plug catalog.

Most likely it is 1/4 inch ID

All appearance come to he has the correct belt. The issue with this style of mower is it uses the deck lift mechanism to also de-tension the deck belt by pulling the deck forward against spring tension to release the belt when the lift lever is moved to the very top position. Some of the...

Generac engine

According to JD that mower uses the 40N877-0001-B1 which uses the 592829 stator and 794360 regulator with the 5/9 amp regulated system Make sure you are getting battery voltage to the wire that connects to the tractor harness side of the regulator and make sure the ground wire for the regulator...

Not unusual for hydraulic oil to be 100 degrees above ambient air temperature. And with a hydrostat system they are not continuous flow from pump to cooler to tank. Depending on efficiency of the system most of the oil gets return between the pump and wheel motor multiple times before...

Some starters are available depending on the actual 41 model number. Some of those trimmers with multiple brand names were subject to the starter housing warping causing the recoil pulley to bind.

Haven't seen it on that engine but have seen issues with the bottom bearing on the Briggs twin OHV inteks wearing funny allowing oil to leak when the crankshaft is shifted to the side.

Keep in mind that 15w50 used inside of an air cooled engines normally sees temps of 275-300.

OIl pump driver. some motors use a supplemental oil pump which is driven by the cam. if you don't have an oil filter or provision for an oil filter on the side of the oil pan, then that part is not used.

And that is the downside of electrical issues. You can spend hours and hours tracking down and repairing what in some cases us a minor repair that took half a day to find. Will spend part of tomorrow going through the wiring harness on a 2009 Yamaha 700 that a squirrel made the decision to...

2.5-5 amp is roughly the norm.

Lawnmower blades are kind of a metal art. Too hard and they are subject to harmony cracking leading to parts of blades that go flying. Too soft and the wear quickly do to the abrasive nature of mowing. Some blades have a Tungsten carbide coating on the bottom of the cutting edge to help...

Most are in the range of 2.3-3.3 ohms.

Overfilled or mower being tipped in a direction that is allowing oil to enter the breather where it can flow into the air cleaner. Or engine is developing a major failure and has a ton of blowby, which could indicate blown head gasket or worn rings.

I was editing my post when you responded so may want to go back and look at what I added.

The bottom bearing in your electric clutch has seized and is now turning the deck drive pulley on the clutch instead of freewheeling. Since the bearing isn't replaceable will need to replace the clutch. Looks to be NLA from Husqvarna So will need to look aftermarket...

And then after you get the spark issue fixed, then you need to concentrate on setting the timing.

The problem is your standard dimensions do not apply to John Deere or MTD/Troybilt/Cub Cadet belts because of unique width., depth, and cut angle.

The cap contains charcoal. They have since around 2003-2004 when the new emissions standards started kicking in. It was one of the first thngs that took place. And the vent may not be a hole. It could just be a loose connection between two parts that allows air passage.

Parts diagram suggest that one was used. Some engined didn't come from the factory with it installed. There should be a recessed area behind the governor arm for the seal to go into from the outside.

If fluid gas has entered the charcoal canister it turns it into a solid mass which basically requires the replacement of the cap.

Most likely the vent is in the cap which also has a charcoal filter canister built into it. So the charcoal could be gas logged, and basically bricked.

Wiring loom is the wiring harness. To @Kingcat MTD is not well known to provide wiring schematics for some for their mowers, and even in some cases don't provide the entire wiring loom aka harness. One some cases the negative cable was a separate item not woven into the loom.

Similar discussion occurring here https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/cv730-has-me-stumped.82047/

Changing jets may help. Seems like the Amazon carbs that I have received have all run rich. At least the Kohler carbs, Not so much with the carbs for Horizontal Kawasaki engines, but did have issues with a float leaking shortly after installing an Amazon carb on a Kaw used on a Scag. OEM was...

Was that carb replacement with an OEM carb or the Amazonian chinesium carb that could be part of the run issue. I have had issues with the aftermarket replacement carbs from Amazon for the CV or SV series engines running rich. I have purchased a couple carbs from Amazon for those engines...

Could just be an aftermarket coil issue, But could also be caused by battery voltage backfeeding the coils causing them to burn out. Even momentary battery voltage at the kill tab on the coil will instantly burn them out.

And that is true with a lot of repairs now. Cost to repair is more than the mower is worth but a replacement mower is 4-10 times the cost of repair. And with the cost of everything repair is the most affordable option for most people.

Compression release breaks are well documented on the single Intek OHV engines. And I have seen maybe 1/2 dozen lobes wear round over my 28 year career on both the single and twin cylinder engines.

For us to look up specifics about your mower we will need the actual model and serial number from the tag under the seat.

One of the models of your mower I looked up indicated that the MIL light may be on the left side of the seat near the parking brake lever. Normally in the area where the choke would normally be located.

Closest I have seen were propane.

Yes. The 754 and 954 are jus variations of the same item with different packaging.

Nothing goes in the hole where the bottom of the link is currently at. That hole is used for a different application. And the spring that is loose hanging in one of your pictures connects to the T shaped tab just to the left of the linkage hole

The throttle link is supposed to be connect to this which is connected to a round rod protruding from the side of the engine using the hole on the right side of the picture. and the spring connects to the tab hanging underneath.. Some configurations used that hole for throttle control in cases...

You do not want the 2 to make contact otherwise you are torquing the D adaptor to the crankshaft not the clutch to the crankshaft. Everything has to sandwich together to hold everything in place. If the crankshaft bolt has a thick heavy washer then you don't use the D adaptor. The D adapter...

Some of those units were setup as a fixed speed engine and had a rod and a nut to adjust the speed up or down for the application.

The rod in the second picture doesn't connect to the sprocket. It connect to the governor arm on the side of the engine and then the spring connects to the governor arm to control the engine speed.