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If your EFI filter was the 24 050 13-S filter that is the old standard fuel pump filter for Kohler. So that is not the issue. If it was it would still be an issue since the Kohler EFI engine still uses a vacuum style pump to charge the EFI pressure pump. And the Kohler Command will attempt...

To confirm actual part number for your mower will need the 9 digit code from the label under the seat May start with 954 It looks like it could be part number 548102301 list for $399.99

I think somebody is making excuses for not wanting to find the real cause. Is it possible that the oil filter failed, yes. But I would want the shop to prove to me it was the oil filter with evidence.

Those holes in pilot jets can be really small sometimes. Sometimes a single wire from a hand wire brush is small enough to go into the hole. Other times I have had to use a single strand from electric wire. but have to be careful about using soft wire that it doesn't break off inside the hole.

There is a hole in the bottom that will connect with the holes in the side of the jet.

Last seen October 7, 2024. I suspect something serious has occurred.

The pump area has issues with gaskets leaking over time. There is a front cover sandwiched with the pump assembly. There are long bolts and short bolts that hold the system together. Remove the long bolts to remove the entire front assembly together and leave the short bolts in place until...

Diagram doesn't show the emulsion tube as a separate part. so may not be removable

I just took the test and didn't go to the class, My first time taking,and passing the Briggs MST test back when it was a 4.5 hour 300 and some question test with a 80% first time failure rate. That test got me out of the 4 day Briggs school. And a nasty Briggs field rep that didn't give me...

Seems like it was a case of they were metal and then went to plastic for a period and then back to metal. I remember using and seeing both back around 20+ years ago Early 2000's

At one time the 9040H were plastic. About 20 some years ago they were but later superceded to metal with the same part number Those are MTD which are about useless for actually allowing grease to reach the other bearing in the hub.

The typical no crank with plug in but adjusted the valves on a single cylinder Briggs intek sounds like the classic broken compression release laying in the engine sump issue.

Looks like that mower uses a Briggs engine. Actual model number info from the valve cover would narrow down the actual engine. But anyway need to remove the blower housing and unplug the wires that are connected to the ignition modules. If you have spark then the issue is either in the mower...

Unless you have a separate switch to turn off the headlights they are wired to be on when the engine is running. Also your dying issue is most likely related to the seat switch, Could also be an issue with the reverse switch or the interlock module. But don't overlook any issues with the...

Over the last couple years I have had higher failure rates with Stens parts than I have from the generic Chinesium Amazon parts.

Had a previous customer that I did repair work on his ATV but couldn't pay the bill when it was done, and then let it set here another year, and then called me to see if it was still running, which I told him no, and most of the previous work I had performed would need to be redone due to it...

Actually in this case the filter will be a screen physically attached to the shut off valve that protrudes inside the tank.

I look at MTD not supplying wiring dagrams normal considering they can't even give you a part number for the wiring harness on a lot of models. Or when you contact tech support looking for a part number for a relay. And told that model doesn't use relays when you are staring at 3.

From your picture is looks like it is 3.45 tall by 2.85 OD and from the other picture in the link I posted appears to be 2ish ID,

I am thinking it could be the white and black loose wires in the OP's 4th picture in the original post

This might give you some scale https://www.partstree.com/parts/briggs-stratton-280001/

I would say you are missing the relay for that electrical connector

Would benefit us if we had the actual model number of the engine since 2011 could be flat head or OHV. If OHV then model number info should be on valve cover but could also be stamped into the blower housing or a metal riveted tag next to flywheel. If flat head then stamped into blower housing...

I am see references to a dog leg in the belt next to the engine pulley and that the engine has to be removed as well as the engine mounting plate to access those pulleys. Looks like 5 hours labor to replace belt in those applications.

The issue isn't the electronic ignition. The issue is the lean running EPA carb that is tuned to operate at above 70F and will run lean, misfire, surge until warmed up.

Possible 325 and 326 on this diagram https://www.partstree.com/models/ts-242-xd-husqvarna-42-garden-tractor-original/drive-4/

When I see the frame rails cracking the first thing I look at is the front transmission support bracket. If the bolts are missing or in the case of Husqvarna tend to brreak off and will allow the transmission to rock and crack the asle supports. But also need to check the frame itself that...

Kohler procedure it to turn it off at half to full throttle because on Kohler engines the fuel shutoff solenoid doesn't block the idle circuit. So by turning off at idle you are allowing the engine to pull in unburnt fuel, but the engine will demand fuel through the high speed jet as it winds...

Ferris doesn't make the transmission. You need to look for a tag on the tranny itself and then look up parts using those numbers. Most likely it is a hydrogear or parker so that should give you a start

I would start by confirming the static governor setting is correct. And it still tries to run away, I would be strongly thinking that the governor itself inside the engine has failed.

If electric start the key switch could be going back and sending 12 V to the ignition module when the key is switched off.

@pdata76 First off MZT61 is not a model number it is a series number which consist of 6 different product numbers. So saying you have a MZT61 has the same understanding as saying I have a Ford Escort without providing the year, and body style. And Startech and Gord Baker were not tring to...

That would be handy when people multi-thread post

People not changing the oil in their push mowers is not anything new. People have been not changing their engine oil since forever, and the bad thing about it is they most likely also don't maintain their vehicles either.

The term residential is not used exclusively to mean a building that you live in. Residential is anything that is considered to be normally used at a residence. So an engine designed to be used at a residence is considered residential. Just like a street that is designed to access a residence...

The true reason for elimination of the drain plug has to do with type of equipment and more specifically self propelled mowers. Due to the design of the equipment decks you could no longer access the drain plug when the engines still had them. And that goes back to Toro self propel mowers from...

Residential grade or consumer engines are normally designed for a life expectancy of less than 750 hours. Semi commercial or prosumer is the 750-1500 hour engines and true commercial engines are 1500+ hr engines. And like Auto Doc said: "If they did these same studies and building techniques...

From the numbers on the bar and with some reference from the Oregon website I would say it is a .325 pitch chain with .058 gauge drive links and 60 drive links.

Everybody complained about the issues with the Courage single with its problems that were later solved. But nobody mentions the 5400 series which was the modern version of that engine which has now also been discontinued. Or the Courage twin which for the most part other than the starter issue...

Kohler/Rehlko's biggest mistake was trying to play in the consumer market. Should of just stayed with their commercial use engines.

Your code date next to your model number on the engine will determine which carb to use. Before 08110600 which is November 06, 2008 uses 593432 and after 08110500 which is November 05, 2008 uses the 590399

Suspension seat and pricy go hand in hand

Sometimes just moving the lever is all that is needed. other times the assembly has to be disassembled to drive out the brake pins and sanding everything to free them up to work properly. And need to be careful about spraying penetrating oil in that oil due to the brake pads and brake disc.

For what I see the surge/peak is the point were it either blows the breakers or lets the factory smoke out of the windings. On some generators is it easy to overload the system and burn up the commuter. On others you can't reach peak performance without blowing the breakers. Kind of hard...

The model number is printed on the tag below the serial number that the OP posted in his first picture.

Make sure the brakes are not stuck.. Should be a lever located on the right side of the transmission in front of the axle. Gets rusty and sticks when the parking brake is engaged for starting.

Bottoming out is not desired. The belt is pulled by friction on the sides of the belt. The bottom of the belt making contact with the pulley creates a lifting effect that prevents the V sides from making proper contact. And in some cases the sides of the pulley will wear creating a hump...

Being a 2013 model the things that come to mind is the groove in the engine pulley is getting worn/glazed preventing the belt from properly grabbing the sides of the belt instead of the bottoming out in the groove. And being a hydrostat transaxle in a lawn tractor, I would consider that to be...

I will about guarantee that 5 thousands won't even take the surface scratches out. I would guess the out of round and taper is more than 5 thousands.

Grabbed a couple fully cooked hickory smoked hams yesterday for $1/lb