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I have an older Schumacher 10 amp/2 amp charger. It's fairly large. It does a great job and has an automatic shut off. However, I felt that a Battery Tender Jr. would be a better unit for maintaining my mower battery. The OEM battery for my Gravely is 5 years old and it fires the mower every time.

The problem could be the shape of the threaded base plate and thickness of the sealing gasket. Look at the business end of the oil filter. Is it flat, concave, or convex shaped? With a convex shaped base plate, that base plate may contact the filter mounting flange before the gasket is...

https://www.batterytender.com/products/junior

Get yourself a Battery Tender Jr. and leave it hooked up whenever you aren't using the mower. Problem solved.

Most likely it's the seat safety switch. It may be a two prong or four prong switch. Test continuity with your ohm meter. On the four prong, test the two outside at the same time and two inside at the same time. While holding the leads to the connections, manipulate the switch and observe your...

What psi are you running in those tires? I wouldn't run over 12 psi. Slow down making your turns.

That particular Ferris has an EFI engine.

There's probably trash in the fuel tank. You're bouncing around for 20 minutes and the pickup tube finds the trash.

@gebo824 Watch this closely. You will see the hose setup when he removes the air cleaner box.

Remove the fuel line from the carburetor. Leave it attached to the fuel pump. Have a container to catch any fuel. Crank it over and see if fuel is exiting the fuel line from the pump.

The breather tube should connect to the bottom of the air filter box and just to the left of the carburetor bowl.

There should be three hoses to the fuel pump. Could that hose go to the fuel pump?

I would definitely get a second opinion. You could check it yourself. Pull both spark plugs and manually rotate the engine. If it rotates freely, it isn't locked up.

Correct! 1/2 to full throttle.

If you plan on taking it in, don't wait until spring. Do it now. When spring comes, the repair shops will be swamped.

That's what I figured. It appears that it came from a backyard operation in Bangladesh.

Where did you order this from?

Older Gravely mowers are picky about blade choices and deck setup. Some of the older deck designs have smaller discharge openings. Gravely mower decks perform best when they are completely level all around or 1/8" higher in the rear. Aftermarket notched high lift blades work best on Gravely mowers.

I had a Gravely with the Kohler ZT740. It would crank and crank but never fire. I checked everything over except the the actual butterfly. Everything checked out. I put my hand over the intake horn and it fired right off. The choke linkage on the carburetor butterfly was broken.

Put you hand over the air intake horn and try to crank it. If it fires up, the choke is the problem.

Most of what are known as Conventional oils are in fact synthetic blends now. There are some outliers.

Here are Rotary's replacements. https://www.rotarycorp.com/search?q=UC22009

Yes, you could have a spindle problem. Do the left and right blades both make contact with the center blade? Does your deck show any deformation around the spindles?

John Deere lists UC22009 as the replacement blade part number. These are the only blades Oregon lists that cross to the Joh Deere UC22009.

How bad can the cheapo Amazon carbs be? It's a crap shoot. If you are planning on keeping the mower, put on a Briggs carburetor. You will thank yourself later.

Sometimes, people need to research for themselves. It's not my job to provide the actual micron data of a certain filter.

AI is your friend. The longer version of either color will capture more particulate. There are better filters than B&S, Kohler, or Kawasaki. All three engine manufacturers outsource their oil filter manufacturing to the lowest bidder.

The only differences are the paint color and the filtering media. The yellow filters will catch smaller particles.

I suggest that you get the B&S carburetor. It's a crap shoot with aftermarket stuff. Replace all of your fuel lines and your fuel filter. Adjust the valves after fitting the new head gasket. I don't think that will have too much of a problem with setting up your carburetor.

I come up with a B&S part #273280S

I believe that this is your carburetor. Some of the others on here can confirm. https://shop.briggsandstratton.com/products/briggs-and-stratton-593432-carburetor @ILENGINE @Auto Doc's

Is this your correct engine number? 219907-0131-B1 - Briggs & Stratton? If not, please list the model number and serial number.

We aren't getting all of the details. Fuel delivery and fuel metering seems to be the main problems. An electric fuel pump will definitely flood out the engine and carburetor. Fuel is bypassing the needle and seat. There could be a problem with the float too. Looking at the overall setup of the...

It certainly sounds like you have an electric fuel pump mounted on your engine. A standard pulse fuel pump will not pump fuel unless the engine is turning over. Follow your fuel line from the carburetor. A pulse fuel pump will look like this. 👇...

Are you using an electric fuel pump?

I think you might be right about the orange filters. Amazon lists them as primarily for Husqvarna application.

I won't do it again. That Mule had great compression. 😂 The Nikki carburetor was horrible.

With what you just described, you definitely have a carburetor problem. I got a good soaking after pulling the plug on the Kawasaki Mule. It's a good thing the spark plug wasn't connected to the plug wire.

Use the yellow one. Black is the basic. Yellow is the mid-grade. Orange is the so-called extended life. There may be a slightly longer model available.

If you have the room, you can use FRAM TG3614, Microgard MSL 51348, NAPA Gold 1348, Carquest Premium 85348. The list is long. I recommend that you stay away from Wix, Purolator, and Motorcraft. The glue is sloppy and can come off inside the filter. Also, their louver style center tube may not be...

The spark plugs will be wet with fuel and fairly clean, if there is that much fuel getting into the cylinders. If that's the case, I'm surprised that you haven't experienced a hydro-lock situation. I just can't imagine that much fuel on top of the cooling fins coming from inside of the engine...

Clean all of that up and pull the plugs. Get some pictures of the plugs and post them. That's a long way for fuel to go and settle on the cooling fins.

Is it a whistling type noise? If so, it's the fuel system venting. That is perfectly normal. My Gravely Pro Turn 260 is in my storage shed. I can be in there and it will whistle for a short period and stop. Later, it will repeat the same sound. The newer emission regulations require a different...

Most of today's so-called conventional oils are synthetic blend. There are outliers like Valvoline VR-1.

I wouldn't use that Lube King in anything other than an air compressor.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-hd-motor-oil-sae-30-5-qt-t1251400-1636292 Synthetic isn't necessary. Motorcraft 15W40 Super Duty is a good oil. If you must have synthetic, Mobil 1 15W50 is a good choice.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-lawnmower-oil-sae-30-48oz

Shell Rotella T1 SAE30 will work in its place.

It could be off an old Ariens lawn tractor. I stand corrected. It's off an old Scotts lawn tractor. https://www.ebay.com/itm/267030981408

Correct! @Scrubcadet10 said the Xtend system. https://www.vanguardpower.com/na/en_us/innovation/oil-xtend-system.html