Search results

All I could come up with.

Is that an aluminum bore or just my poor eye site and Kelvin light temp in the picture?

Just swap an LS motor in there. Chevy guys do it all the time. Much cheaper too. Going with no as well. Those are some deep gouges.

Last I heard Bert passed away???

I do on every o-ring or rubber washer.

I had two pushers that ran fine. Would barely jump a plug gap in free air. Put two new coils on. Run and start much better now. Plugs run much cleaner too. One was running super rich with lack of spark.

Amen to this. All starts with your fuel can spout type. I too would dump the tank and flow test it.

Use brake cleaner for, cleaning brake parts. Even then I use a garden hose and shop air. I want all that dust down the street before I dive into some pads.

Air hammer Candle wax Inductive heat gun Regular heat gun BFH Oxy/Act torch

OR clear the roots and trash. Tannerite, picks and shovels, high lift car jacks and so on. Old timers used to walk to yard prior to mowing. Saved a lot of head aches.

Always test your test equipment LOL.

Plastic or metal? If plastic, weld it up. Metal, solder it. Easy right?

Another good one.

Need to isolate the coil REMOVING the plug while testing for spark. Plug in series you have 2 parts you are testing.

Confirm which terminal. The kill wire terminal? IF you have a kill wire short to ground, she will NOT start. NO spark all day long. Does she have a low oil sensor killing spark? Check the oil on a level surface.

Going with lack of fuel delivery or possible dead cylinder. Couple more below. Choke stuck on partial. Trash in the tank Dead internal fuel lines Dirty carb Open top gas can spout. THIS is where it all starts......... Carb after-fire solenoid plunger sticking Stale fuel with E-10 and water...

Do you have spark MINUS the plug? Maybe the plug opened up or gap closed?? Simple 12 volt test light connected to bare metal. Pointy end inside the plug boot. Do you have spark this way?

Toss the Christmas tree light waste of time toys. Was going to call it a tester but that was too much LOL.

If you pull all kill wires AT the coil, should drain the tank dry IF the coil/s are good.

My man, a 1991 engine will need de-carboned, valve job, head and block area where the head sits, lapped, and so on. All of this is IN your engine manual. Valve clearance checked after lapping the valves in. Let's talk about de-carboning the cylinder and valves. Chunks of carbon WILL break off...

Supposed to be that way. Engine is warmed up and read to go. Easy right?? Going with a weak slash dying ignition coil here. Valve job, valve clearance and such. Explain this fully please. How big of a gap at 3600rpm does she jump? 🍿🍿🍿 WHERE did you buy it from? Scamazon or Fleabay? Best to...

People testing at one speed say 1200rpm cranking speed are not checking the full rpm output of the ignition coil. Mid and high revs of 3600 need to be checked as stated above. So a typical spark test with a plug on the engine block is NOT a valid spark test. Doesn't tell the full story.

OP sounds like a mower novice. Not to worry we all start some place. What I would do. Battery on a charger. Spray 2 stroke gas mix STRAIGHT INTO the carburetor throat. Crank the engine over. If she starts and runs a few seconds then dies, you have a fuel delivery issue. Could be trash in the...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133632782219

https://maxshineusa.com/products/spray-bottle

I use a simple plastic hand pump sprayer. Like cleaning windows with. Like a plant mister. Taryl has them in his online store. Rich folk use the below...

Right right...... I say 4. Air, fuel, spark (at the correct time) and compression. Agree especially E-10, goes bad in 30 days. OP probably has water in the system or stale fuel. ????

I have gone over to 2 stroke mix myself. Works in any two or four smoke engine. Way less flammable plus lubes every cylinder you spray it in. Cheaper than canned death types like brake cleaner too. Even at today's ultra high gas prices, if you mix a gallon and some 2 stroke oil, will last you...

I can't believe you guys don't know exactly what model and engine he has...... Amateur hour around here LOL. :ROFLMAO: (y):p

Here is Taryl in action. The meat and taters starts at 5:00 - 7:00. Watch the entire video where he explains gap jumping and proper spark testers. This will answer a lot of your questions. Notice he had spark at low revs only. At mid and high revs he had nothing. Bad coil alert........

Reason why I mentioned to try it WITH the air filter on and at 3600rpm. Filter will richen it up a touch. LOVE the reply, just love it. (y) (y) Should be a spring on the throttle/governor linkage that connects AT the throttle end AND the other end a stationary metal tab. More you tighten the...

Agree, throw the Christmas light style spark checker in the trash. Not a real world test at all.

So what we know after 5 pages. Engine smooths out at higher revs. All agree? Think this carb has no pilot circuit so not guaranteed to run smooth at low revs. Told OP to set the revs at 3600rpm and see what happens. I was ignored. Can you drain a full tank into a glass jar, WITH good fat...

Get an open gap style spark tester. Open the gap up and stress the coil out. See how far she can spark. Just recently replaced two of my five mower coils due to weak spark. Only a couple bucks shipped to your door.

Pretty sure this is a fixed speed engine. As in 3600rpm. Not meant to idle down. Briggs, Kroller, Honda and Kawasaki all state run at max revs for max cooling and lubrication. Speaking of max engine life slash durabillity.

You have either a throttle/governor spring or a choke/throttle cable controlling the speed. First should be like a metal tab. Second is a lever. Post up pictures of what you are working on.

Amazing how people buy $1800 cell phones but no way in heck buy a 20 dollar mower part LOL. Sucking down that over priced StarTrash coffee.

Why would you knock out the dust several times a day? You break the seal every time you do this. It's your mower. Just install a fresh filter and run it until she takes a couple extra cranks to start or starts losing power. THEN put a new filter in. Doing the multiple daily beat and bang...

Anyone asked about the engine numbers yet? Is this a Briggs autochoke model? Definitely a Quantum style nbpt100 mentioned about.

THIS engine is made to run at 3600rpm. Soon as you pull the rope until you shut it off. Carb does NOT have a pilot circuit to assist proper running when you incorrectly idle down the engine revs. Set it at 3600rpm as we all heard it ran better and leave it alone.

I've seen OLD clean looking paper filters cause running issues. Install a new fresh filter and she runs like a top. Guessing paper gets old and doesn't flow like a new one?? Probably was an aftermarket unconfirmed but definitely old.

Just set the sucker at 3500-3600rpm and forget about it.

Thanks for letting us know your fix action. Glad she is a runner again.

That tiny carb I bet lacks a pilot circuit. Looks like a fixed rpm main jet sucker to me.

Post up a linked video of it WITH the air filter on please. She how she runs with a filter.

Worn out gear cogs on the mower won't help much with new wheels if you can find them. Will eat the new wheel gears away in short order. Need to replace both parts. Good luck in your search.

Either replace the solenoid or snip the plunger off and use an inline fuel valve to kill fuel about a minute prior to killing the engine. Also can get a bolt the same thread and pitch for the solenoid and bypass the solenoid all together. Saves this stupid no run condition for the next guy later on.

STOP using the engine until you get the carb sorted. THEN dump the oil after every single mow three times. Oil is cheap. Got to get all the fuel out of the contaminated oil.

PE is polyethylene. NOT what you want for an HDPE tank. That is high density polyethylene. Heard you CAN use LDPE or low density polyethylene ON HDPE tanks. Just match the tank material TO your rod. Easy pze.

What type of plastic are the rods? Just says 75 plastic rods.