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I have no signs of spark, but have not tested without the plug. My thought was that since I see short to ground at the terminal, coil is bad. Is that correct? I had to remove the recoil start to get at the coil, and it's a pain to put back together.

Thanks!

Good news, thanks for the update.

What do you spray it with? I tried reusing a sprayer, and the fuel just leaked out in a hurry.

engine model 091412 E type 0130 code 060110 Y Fuel flows, kill switch set to run. No fire, even with starting fluid. Can't detect spark with gap tester or bulb. Wire from magneto to kill switch measures dead ground, even unhooked from switch. Lots of covers to remove, but I got to the coil...

The best spark testers have a gap, where it makes a spark, rather than the light bulb. That's the air gap tester. The bulb is too easy to light and doesn't really tell you if the coil makes a good spark.

Also, posting the model numbers helps others assist you.

Please don't make multiple posts on one problem...

Got fuel? Do you use a fuel cutoff for winter storage? I imagine it has a fuel pump. If you pull the fuel line from tank to pump, does fuel flow freely? Have you tried starting fluid? If you have any 2 stroke fuel, you can spray a little in the carb and see if it fires. If not, need to...

So, I replaced the fuel tank, since I got one free. The original had a hole over the spark plug, so I made a heat shield to protect the tank more in that area. I should be able to change the plug without pulling the tank. Fired it up, tweaked the spring on the governor arm, lubed pivots etc...

Could something have bent? You say you had to replace blades, I'm assuming they hit something. Could the deck have bent where a spindle mounts? The old belt didn't suddenly shrink 2 inches. Is there an idler pulley that lost its spring or is jammed somehow? I'm sure you have done this, but...

There is a model and serial number tag on the engine. It should have what you need to identify which flavor.

Good point about the fuel filter!

Fuel filter is backwards. The arrow should point toward the carb. I doubt that's the problem, but it's easy to fix, just in case. The starter gear should drop when engine starts. If engine does not start, it may stay engaged. If turning the flywheel drops the starter gear, it's probably...

As you say, that doesn't sound like the valve timing is right.

No need to go away. This is a pretty friendly place, though there can be misunderstandings...

Sounds good. Can you drop the bowl? That should let you see the tip of the solenoid actuator. You want a fuel line cutoff for this...

What is the mower model number? There should be a sticker/plate with model and serial number.

Great news, thanks for the update.

I don't know, but I do know that posting duplicates doesn't help.

Safety switch mostly will keep it from starting. If you had junk in the bowl, check fuel flow to carb. If gravity feed, pull fuel line at carb and check flow. If there's a solenoid, is it connected? If you pull the bowl and turn ignition on, it should retract. As much junk as you say, I'd...

See Forest's post above. Your float/needle may be leaking and causing the fuel puddle, and adding to the smoke on startup if you don't close the valve. Did you replace fuel lines? That one going to the carb looks like it's cracking. That's a sign to replace all the fuel lines, as they also...

I'm having trouble finding a wiring diagram. I found one in French, linked off this site, but it doesn't help much. Do you have a link to one in English? It could be a bad connection/broken wire. The kill switch usually grounds the magneto, with ignition switch off. Safety circuits can also...

Damage to the gear/shaft could keep it from disengaging. Normally the gear would move back towards the starter body to disengage. In this case, it would move down. I don't have experience with that machine, but that's what normally happens. One of the things to look at when you try and turn...

I crudely circled the starter gear. It looks engaged with the flywheel. That's what I'm talking about. Normally when you engage the starter, the gear moves to engage the flywheel, and when you stop powering the starter, it retracts. Does that make sense to you?

How are you determining that it's fully charged? I would start by cleaning the battery connections, and the connections at the solenoid. I would also pull the spark plug and turn the engine over, either manually, or with the starter. I would first try manually turning the engine. You should...

Good call. I looked at the pics and mostly thought it needed cleaning. I'd say replace fuel lines, tank to carb.

See what happens when you post all the model numbers?

I tried it too, it wanted me to log on. I don't need the file, I was just checking after Handy Tom didn't get in.

I found HPDE sticks. First I see if buddy has a welder, if not I decide if I want to fix. Deeper searches found a new tank under $100. Not original part number, but part number listed as official replacement. If I weld, I will use HDPE. Thanks again.

Best I saw was PE. I asked the AI(boo) and they said compatible with HPDE. Got a recommendation? I haven't heard back if my buddy has one yet.

Glad you saw that sgkent, I know bunburner will be glad also.

By the way, I'd charge the battery overnight before I tried it again, regardless of what a volt meter says.

If battery is fully charged, I think the battery is suspect. It could also be the starter or cables from battery to solenoid and then to starter. One of your earlier pics of the engine showed the starter gear engaged, which it should only do when starting. That would be a problem. The audio...

Good to hear it.

How about this one? https://short-url.org/1x6KY (warning, link to amazon)

Thanks slomo. I'll check with a buddy who's a professional, maybe he's got one. It sounds good to me. The epoxy just seemed to lose it's grip, as I can peel the remnants off the tank pretty easy.

Is the battery charged? If it won't crank, does it make any sound when you try and start? Is there a click or any noise? Can you describe the sound? If you post the video to youtube, you can link it here.

That's kind of what I thought too. It's easy enough to misinterpret, it happens to all of us.

It's a plastic tank. I used epoxy on it 3 years ago, and it's coming off and leaking. As I said, I do have a tank also. Thanks again.

That's great, but we need the engine model number. Craftsman didn't make the engines, and there may have been multiple engines in that model mower. There should be a label on the engine with model and type. If you've needed starting fluid in the past, fuel system is suspect. Check the fuel...

Or that was what he was trying to do....

sgkent, I believe he replied to a reply to your reply that someone else posted in the thread about wanting used parts, and bunburner told him to post his own thread. I don't think he was addressing you at all.

Is that your mower? It's a rider with belt driven blades. That is much less likely to be the shaft key. That is a problem that happens frequently with blades attached directly to crankshaft.

You have to pull the flywheel. If you post the mower model#, someone may be able to point you to documentation. There's usually a plate or sticker with model and serial numbers. It's usually different from the model it's sold as. There's usually a cover on top that has to come off, then you...

Thanks Auto Doc's and slomo. Both helpful. I was just looking at it and as it surged, I got the idea it was overcorrecting, and checked for free movement. It is much better. I believe a buddy has a good tester, all I have is a VOM, and a EE degree. I'm working on leaky gas tank next. It's...

The Briggs motor should have an id plate with model and type.

Check carb linkages. I just did a generator where the throttle linkage was too tight in the fitting, making it surge. I'm not familiar with that motor. What about the lines to the pump? Leaks in the pressure line can do this.

What is the model #? There should be a plate or sticker with model and serial number.

Have you checked fuel flow?