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Try going right to the negative terminal of the battery if possible. Every place you used still would run through the negative battery cable. Going straight to the negative terminal would eliminate the negative battery cable.

When you did your voltage tests where did you put the black lead of your voltmeter?

Got a voltmeter? Set it to DC. Put the red lead on the starter post and the black lead to a good ground. Engage the starter and read the voltage. What does it read? Do the same thing on both sides of the starter solenoid and the small excite terminal at the solenoid. Are all the voltages similar...

I know it's been weeks since you first posted but if you're still working on it, how does it run at full throttle?

Anything above 150 psi is good. If taken correctly and the engine is in good shape it could easily be 180. And .004 to .006 on clearance is correct.

If you've got good spark and are getting fuel to the spark plugs I'd probably be thinking a timing issue. Either ignition or valve. If the ignition timing if off that would mean the flywheel key is probably sheared or partially sheared. To know for sure the flywheel will need to be removed. I...

When did it last run correctly? Did you notice anything unusual the last time it was shut down? What is compression?

Even Kohler wasn't thrilled with the technology but pressure from the mower manufacturers forced the issue. These engines are primarily on home owner mowers and the mower manufacturers want to offer home owners a mower you just get on and turn the key. For the most part it's worked pretty well...

It's a shame that your dealers didn't have a good Kohler distributor or maybe didn't even contact them. Kohler came out with a kit to do away with the smart choke under warranty for those with repeat failures that for whatever reason couldn't be fixed. The cost to you would have been a choke...

Kohler must agree with you because they have a kit to do just that.

You're simply looking for anything loose or out of place such as a push rod or rocker arm. If everything looks to be intact turn the engine over and see if the rocker arms are moving. I did mention keep it simple and then I didn't. I should have first mentioned checking for piston movement as...

Shutting down a Courage single like that shouldn't have caused a problem. I'd probably start simple by pulling the rocker cover and turn the engine over and see if both rocker arms are moving. There were some compression release issues on the early engines but I believe that issue was solved...

Bent starter shaft was very common on the Courage twin cylinder engines. Kohler had the starter vendor increase the diameter of the shaft and changed the number of teeth on the gear so today that issue should be gone.

Exactly. That's why I was asking OP if they ever figured it out. That engine doesn't have a compression release so valve clearance doesn't matter. That engine is always going to be under full compression. If the valve clearance was too tight that could affect compression but that would lower it...

Ever figure it out?

Do you have it figured out yet? There could be other issues going on that are making things not working correctly but Kohler wires are Kohler wires. The white, green, red and purple on your original engine will do the same thing on the replacement engine. The white is ground to kill. The green...

Yeah that's because it doesn't need a regulator/rectifier. It's actually serving no useful purpose. If you can get your hands on an actual correct 12 584 04-S I'd try that.

Where you now have the regulator/rectifier mounted was there anything mounted there before? Normally on a 3 amp system there is a blank plate there. The 15 amp systems use that regulator/rectifier and have two white wires coming off the stator. The center spade on the regulator goes to the B+...

Of course that's exactly what I did. I looked at photo and recognized it as a Kohler. No question about it. It's a Kohler Command vertical shaft single cylinder. That blower housing and air filter and the upside down oil filter scream Kohler. 100% without a doubt.

It's definitely a Kohler.

There should never be any direct battery voltage going to any magneto type ignition coil so I don't quite follow what you have going on there. I actually taught Kohler technicians for 27 years and you definitely have something cobbled together there. And from you pictures you do for sure have a...

1.The Speed Advance Module has 5 wires. Red was key switched battery voltage. Black was ground. White was the kill lead. The other two wires, probably yellow and brown, went to the ignition coil. One spade terminal was slightly smaller than the other so you couldn't hook it up wrong. 2. The...

That is the correct part number. How does it run if you run it on just one cylinder at a time?

The 12 584 12-S isn't a voltage regulator but is called a Speed Advance Module, sometimes a Spark Advance Module which says you have a CV16. This still doesn't explain why your replacement coils won't mount other than they aren't the correct replacement for a 12 584 04-S. If your engine still...

Doesn't matter. CV15 or CV16 the blocks are the same so the 12 584 04-S will mount regardless. It might not run right but the coil will still mount, it would just be out of time. It would probably seem to run fine until you got it under a load. It would then be low on power. The CV16 was just a...

The 12 584 04-S is the correct module for CV11 thru CV15 and there is no other. Kohler has used that module for 20 plus years. Are your incorrect replacements genuine Kohler parts? It is possible to mount the module wrong side out but it still fits the same and you can set the proper gap but it...

What's the part number of the coil you used as the replacement? Did the small wire connection or connections look different from the coil you took off?

Yep. I would agree. A restriction in the muffler could definitely cause your scenario.

Did you also turn the governor shaft counterclockwise as far as it would go before re-tightening? The way I always explained a mechanical governor adjustment was to loosen the governor arm on the governor shaft. Move the governor arm which ever direction needed to open the throttle on the carb...

According to your spec # you have a governed idle and you may not have an idle screw on the carb. That screw if there wouldn't be used with a governed idle. Look at #27 in the diagram. That is the governed idle spring which again, according to your spec # your engine should have. One end of it...

Yep. Have to troubleshoot first.

Ummm, what?

After the engine stops running but has not yet stopped spinning is there still spark?

Do you have a way to safely gravity feed fuel directly to the carb from another source? Maybe another small fuel tank or bottle? Obviously am looking to see if the issue goes away when the carb is fed from an alternative source. If the problem is still there you can forget the fuel lines being...

Does a tiny bit of choke help at all or does that immediately make it worse?

My assumptions were created when you asked about running the engine with the float bowl off which pretty much took all the assuming off the table. I will make another assumption and assume your original question the way you asked it wasn't exactly what you meant to ask and wish you the best of...

Not trying to be mean here but you don't know how to do any of the troubleshooting procedures and from the sounds of it your mechanical abilities are next to nothing. You are going to hurt yourself. Working with carburetors and fuel is very dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. Don't...

You didn't share the engine model number so it would be just a guess if your engine even needs a valve adjustment. Kohler uses hydraulic lifters on many of their engines and they do not require adjusting. If your engine is a Kohler Command then you have hydraulic lifters and no adjustment is...

That was right at the time Kohler was going from the CV22 to the CV23 and the early specs were labeled as CV22s. The 75XXX specs had a slightly larger bore. At the time Kohler actually referred to it as their large bore 22.

Save yourself some time and inevitable injury and get it to a qualified service facility.

I noticed where the link connects to the new carb there is no plastic grommet there. Is there on the old carb?

I don't see a governor spring. There should be a short spring about the diameter of a pencil or slightly larger. One end should be attached to the governor lever and the other end to that lever your throttle cable is moving. Item D below is the spring I am talking about.

Looking at your video a little closer the governor lever looks like it's moving correctly. I was mostly listening when I played the video previously trying to hear how fast it was running. Looks more like a control issue either with the control assembly or the throttle cable.

As long as you moved the lever so the throttle plate was wide open then turned the governor shaft the same direction as far as it would go and kept it in that position while snugging that nut then the adjustment should be correct. If the engine was run with the governor out of adjustment you may...

When you did Step 6 did the governor lever move on the governor shaft? This instruction isn't correct. It's close but step 6 puts the governor out of adjustment. The adjustment is correct up until Step 6. You want move the governor lever loose on the shaft until the carb throttle plate is wide...

You probably won't find it in stock either but if you're really wanting a new engine a CH742-3112 is the exact same engine less the front drive shaft. Take it and the flywheel screen off your original engine and put it on the 3112 and now you have a 3111. Finding one may be a long shot but at...

I've pretty much only worked with Kohler and Tecumseh engines for the last 26 years so I have to plead a bit ignorant on Briggs but, for the flywheel does Briggs use a straight key or a woodruff key? If it's a woodruff key then to be sure the key is not sheared the flywheel will have to come...

If you don't mind, post the spec number.

If you're talking flywheel key, the flywheel needs to come off to know for sure.

If you have it bored I would NOT give them the piston unless you are 100% sure they know what they are doing. They don't need it. All the machine shop needs to know is the brand new bore I.D. and they simply need to bore it .010 or .020 or whatever it takes over that figure. I've seen it too...