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There are only two negative sides to ethanol....the first is that it is hygroscopic meaning it picks up water from the ambient atmospheric contact. That isn't much of a problem at the percentages used. The other is that it assists in washing the oil off the cylinder walls. Gives the oil ring...

Damn good advice....

Machine shop....

Bermuda 1.75" or so. You want to encourage horizontal growth, not vertical. 34-0-0 fertilizer in a moderately heavy application early on. MSMA 6 Plus for crabgrass control if you have that problem. Give the MSMA time to work....takes a week or more and you'll start to see little yellow spots on...

Change the oil and filter and move on.....

Ether will start any IC engine. It is much more flammable than others suggested but will work. Shoot, just a few drops of gas down the spark plug hole will work as well.....

Certainly....at the introduction of ethanol in 1978 there were problems with rubber components. Buna N solved all that by 1980. Almost every automotive or small gasoline engine since then has been placarded for at least 10% and later some for 15%. Ethanol will not harm these engines despite the...

Closer the better without rubbing.

🙄. No.

"....even though I run ethanol-free gas". False virtue.

Stevie Wonder and Ray Charles approve.....

No.

698281 Superseded to 7049776YP view new part 698281 is No Longer Available

Yes...even when they're broken. The keyway alignment and the spark timing magnet on the outside will always be correct if in the same alignment. The alternator magnets are on the inside. You can rip ALL the alternator magnets out and still know which is the correct flywheel.

Magnet orientation N-S makes zero difference....all that is required is a flux in the coils from the passing magnetic field.

Look at the casting numbers ....original is -200 or -700 hard to tell, the new one is -100.

Another parts cannon.

The original is the 18 rivet 532 hour Don Dye. Both are still useable and smooth. I replaced one with that Chinee 6 rivet that failed in 6 hours. But the Don Dye are head and shoulders above anything else that Bad Boy could offer and does offer. And if you notice, the new Don Dye is listed in...

Yeah....until I look at all 18 rivets. Both sides are fully headed which means accurately center punching and drilling.....because grinding is subject to slips and gouges. If I had a milling machine this would be trivial...just use an end mill to cut them to just above the surface and pin punch...

These are the original Don Dye pulleys that will last....oem on Bad Boy many years ago til they went stupid. I'm

Chinese ****. Chinese ****.....check out my post 4.75" deck idler pulleys....warning

The image provided here is the flat idler pulley for the deck of a lot of Bad Boy and other mowers. The one in the left is what Bad Boy is sending to their dealers. It is Chinese $33 crap. 6 hours and the bearings are shot. Easily identified by the 6 rivet design. The one on the right is the...

It didn't. Something else is at play here....

That one appears to have a nice, wide seal mark at the cone. No leak by there.

This is one of those problems that invites a parts cannon approach. What are the fluid pressures being delivered to each drive motor? Are they different? Are the drive motors actually the problem or is it the pump? The DUP10 is just two pumps side by side in the same case delivering fluid under...

And a better source for your operators manual..... http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMM154566_D7/Output/Index.html?tM=HO

More to think about......found this interesting. The higher viscosity TuffTech oil would mask some wear issues but it's still not certain that this isn't just an air purge problem......

Did you buy this new or from someone? That red knob looks like a battery disconnect....anti theft. The key doesn't pull out of the socket does it? If it doesn't start in one position but does in the other that's what it is. And disregard on the 30 wt trans oil....manual says JD Hygard was used...

Might want to check....most of these hydros use 30 wt motor oil, not "hydraulic" oil. Here is the link for anything past 2006 and yours still uses the Kanzaki DUP10 pump. https://john-deere.manymanuals.com/gardening-equipment/z425/user-manual-11765/44 Now the pump, if defective, can be rebuilt...

If you have the TZT7 series transaxle ( should be a tag on each transaxle to identify model and serial number), watch this video. Your operators manual..... https://pdf.lowes.com/useandcareguides/759936761409_use.pdf I think the rod you were originally adjusting is for creep while the control...

If you call 1.5mm a microscopic coating....which it's not....the steel is infused with carbon or nitride to about that depth but not further. Turn a piece of case hardened steel on your lathe and you'll know when you can switch from carbide to high speed steel tooling...

Differential pressure test it to check valve leakage.....you don't have the gauge manifold so find someone who does.....or, place piston top dead center, valves closed, on one side and blow compressed air into the spark plug hole. Don't put your fingers anywhere near the fan....100 psi is...

Compression tests are fine if they make you feel good....but that's about all they do. Yes, I do them too but rely on the differential pressure test to see where that compressed air is going.....past a valve, rings, head gasket..... Continental aircraft engines are down to 45/80 differential...

This exact same issue was covered in another post....more food for thought.... https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/threads/purging-a-tuff-torq-dup-10-e-drive.76261/

The "sticker shock" comes from the reseller you buy them from. I've been able to get a standard bag of 100 for the price of just 5 from the reseller. Think it was Marco Rubber or something like that.

Related to higher temp epoxy but unrelated to your problem. Have a Kawasaki FD731V that developed a slight coolant leak at the bottom of the case where there was evidence of a scarcity of case sealant. Little chunks of the sealant had come out. Cleaned everything up, laid down a thin smear of...

A ratchet strap works really well to pull the tension idler back to install the belt.

Nobody seems to like ether. 🤔

4 things......no water in the fuel.

And the other thing Kawasaki owners do is not read the part on the dipstick about checking the oil level by NOT screwing the dipstick back in to get the oil level.

"The rod was broken and the there is a lot of aluminum transfer on the crankshaft.". He ran it out of oil. YOU are not responsible for the stupidity of others. This should be an object lesson to them....one that involves $$$$$

And they are cast in place. New engine.

No.

Rated for 1000 F. Come on advertising. Just like AL, any patch matrix will lose half of its strength well before it ever gets to that temp. Take it off and find someone who will TIG weld it back up.

Next time use the hot melt wire staples used in the auto repair biz. Stitch it up with those.

But damn hard to do on thin section metals. Rethink.

Whatever they were, weren't welds. Oxy/acetylene weld temp 3500 C. Electric arc 4000 C. Might have been furnace brazed but wasn't welded. But kinda doubt that as well. Oxy/hydrogen would get you down to 1750 C but don't see that happening either. Here would be melted AL pistons at anything above...

Still one pound of grease not doing a damn thing.

You guys....🙄. If it is a mixture screw, in will lean the mixture, out enrichens. If it is an air bleed screw, in enrichens, out leans. Turn it out 3 turns and start the mower. This is for idle only as the main jet controls the fast idle mixture. Set throttle to idle. Turn screw in....if it...

Hint.....put the seal back when done lubricating....