Search results

Focus on the engine running problem. Most of the time it is a lack of fuel delivery. Dirty carb, trash and or water in the fuel tank. Shot in the dark, a non venting fuel tank cap. Fuel lines degrade internally so you can't see problems with them until they choke the flow off.

If you can TIG, weld the sucker up. As you already know, it's all about the prep work. V grind away at the area and go to town. OP sounds like a capable fella'. If nothing else, you can learn on that block and tell all us noobs how to do it proper.

Possibly. Or use what I use, a non-hardening sealant, gas and oil resistant gooo from Permatex. Perfect for oil pans and valve covers. Says aviation grade as well on the package. Forget RTV, better sealants out now. Next guy to work on it will kiss you on the lips. Not having to clean up and...

Make the video. Post to youtube. Might even make some money off it. LINK it here so we can watch it.

1 ounce treats 2.5 gallons.

Get an evap smoke machine. $16.49 to your door...

So it will run with starting fluid. I would look for a clogged pilot jet or circuit. Also could be debris in the fuel tank and tank outlet barb/nipple. Fuel lines deteriorate internally so you will not see bad lines. Just replace them all from tank to carb. If it runs she is drawing fuel...

First test to mower troubleshooting is as follows: Spraying 2 stroke mix into the carb confirms a few things if she runs and dies. 1.Engine wants more fuel. Dirty carb or fuel delivery issue. 2.You have enough compression to run. 3.Your spark is good and AT the correct time (flywheel key is good).

Pull fuel line from carb INLET. Drain into a glass jar. Look for water and trash in the bottom of the jar. FILL the jar as to TEST your tank cap VENT and flow. If she flows then stumbles slash trickles, the tank cap VENT is the issue. This test confirms two things for you.

Nope, not going to do it LOL LOL. :ROFLMAO:

A quick spray bang might not run for long. Sounds like you barely hit it with your starting juice. Spray some 2 stroke mix which is way safer that ether. Fog it in there real nicely. Plus ether has NO lube in it like 2 stroke. Some get wild with the ether and can strip all the oil out of the...

Yes you can. Think about what you wrote again. Plastic float and tab. Think if you had NO other way to fix it. Like the guys on Cuban Chrome or Pakistani Truckers on YouTube. Okay heat gun and a small prying device. GENTLY heat the tab. GENTLY tweak the tab until she moves. GENTLE and SMALL...

Polarity issue, flip your meter probes.

Look for the carb float height being set too low.

Too aggressive of abrasive choice. Contacts need polishing. They make contact cleaning paper or used to. If the contacts are pitted you have one caveman try with low grit paper. Then polish to a mirror shine. Use some Flitz Metal Polish or the like and a slim cloth. Even a sheet of thick...

What about the actual cooling fins that cool this air cooled engine? Not the upper most top plastic cover.

From what the OP wrote, going with the usual, lack of fuel delivery slash improper air/fuel ratio. Bet it's time to check valve clearance, cooling fins and maybe de-carbon the cylinders per your engine manual.

Waste of money here. Still have this issue so the seafoam which was originally made for 2 strokes didn't work, again. Do the plugs say Torch on them? Where did you get the plugs from? Makes a huge difference. Same with the coils. Have you tested for spark with an open gap style spark tester...

Any new parts will require testing. As in your new carb. Carb needle/seat needs pressure tested. Float height needs to be set proper. Lot of people ignore this one. Float height can make a big rich or lean condition.

OEM carb or did someone save some money here? Yes if the carb needle isn't sealing proper. Pull your oil dip stick and smell for fuel. If you smell gas STOP using the engine. Report back here.

Crank the engine with the IR camera going. It will immediately show you where the problem is. Poor connections show up immediately as heat. These are a must have tool IMO. Say you have a DVD player or computer power supply acting up. Fire the IR cam at it. Will show you the components that are...

More like half a volt.

New machines are trash compared to what you had. Never seen any Deere bag anything worth remembering about.

Hobo Freight has some that is ok good. Honestly it works fine. Comes in a multi size kit for $6.99. https://www.harborfreight.com/42-piece-marine-heat-shrink-tubing-67598.html

WD-40 gums up in six months time. Turns into a sticky mess. Better sprays like contact cleaners and enhancers one could use to spray on. Another tip is use marine grade heat shrink that has adhesive inside it. It ooozes out the end when hit with a heat gun. This weather seals each connection...

Probably a scamazon or fleabay starter.

Mower belts are not the same as automotive types. So don't go to your local auto parts house and try to match one up. It will work for a while......

What was the rpm at when she tossed the rod? Ever put a tach on her to monitor rpm's? Curious a Vanguard made in Japan tossing a rod. Guess anything is possible.

Sure they call it carb cleaner in a spray can.

Recommend downloading YOUR engine manual and read it cover to cover. Read it again. Lots of great tips in there for proper maintenance. Like cooling fin cleanings, de-carboning the cylinder/s and so on.

What do the cooling fins look like? Sounds like she was or is over heating killing the engine. Valve guides are not supposed to move. Should be the same installed height as the adjacent ones.

Are all those "new" parts OEM Kroller? If you pull the oil dipstick while running, should be plenty to vent the crankcase pressure on a fresh engine. Shouldn't be pumping out oil and blowing crank seals.......

Gentleman is 81 I saw (y). Did the rings get installed upside down???? Something was missed here. Cam timing waaay off?? OP said it only runs on full choke.

Did the head/s get lapped and a proper valve job done? De-carbon the cylinder/s per your engine manual? Valves move as normal not hanging open causing more pressure?

Amen to this. Lots of mower parts are no longer available new as well.

Probably can but lubricant attracts grit that wears the parts out even faster. Simple poor design is all.

Yeah why reuse it? Probably the OG fuel line anyway.

Get a simple bolt and sealing washer at the local hardware. Throw the solenoid in the trash. Maybe some fuel rated sealing type sealant on the threads or pipe dope. Don't know if pipe dope is fuel rated. Permatex I bet makes some.

Pull the oil dip stick and smell for fuel. If you smell gas let us know.

Needle must be wet as to simulate real world usage. Spray some say PB Blaster on it and retest YOUR method. Best method I now use instead of the pressure and gauge setup is run a clear hose say 1 to 2 feet higher than the carb. Squirt Diesel into the hose. Fill carb bowl up and hose at a high...

YES YES YES......

Did you test the carb needle and seat prior to installing? Amazon carb right? Save any money shopping there? :p

Okay I disagree with this one. I put all suspect fuel in the 5 gallon bucket. This bucket houses used motor oil and fuels. Spray it on your stockade fence keeping the wood like new. Great way to recycle.

Wow another person on here realizing the trash in the fuel can phenomenon. Been talking about fuel can spouts for a while. Not many comments on it. Nice......... (y)

What about all the oil, dirt and grass covering said coil? Mummy wraps the coil holding in all that heat. Good way to burn one out or degrade the spark.

You had me until you mentioned Heet. (y) Just drain the entire fuel system and carb bowl. Replace with fresh non E-10 juice and stabilizer. Not like you are draining a container ship here. I see no need to throw band-aids at some suspect fuel which is probably stale and full of water.

Did you check the oil by screwing IN the oil dip stick? Below is the proper way. Do NOT screw the dip stick in while checking level. Mover needs to be on the same cutting height on all four wheels and on LEVEL ground. Lastly check both sides of the dip stick for proper level checking.

What type of tester used? Old school carbon pile or the new mOhm meters? I've seen several batteries at Autozone and Oreiley's pass with their new mOhm testers. Took it inside on their real deal carbon pile super tool. Total fail on the pile tester. Guy was like hmmmm. I don't trust these new...

Solenoids can be random intermittent headaches as we all know. Might work on one testing then immediately fail. Electrical contacts get worn and stop working. Perfect time for a IR camera. Will SHOW you exactly where the problem is. One bump of the key will spotlight say a bad + connector on...

Look at all that dirty oily rust preventative under there. Looks like a leaker for quite a while. Check the engine block vent and reseal her up. Keep a sharp eye on the oil level.