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Adding to this. It all starts here fella's. Yes your gas can spout. Most people never talk about this even on here. Middle spout is great. Far right spout is the trouble maker.

New doesn't mean new. Let that percolate a bit. Might take 15 new coils to make/get a good spark. Yes open gap tester is a must. Many ways to do this. Simple 12v test light connected to a clean ground. Can vary the probe or pointed end, in and out of the plug boot. Looking for max gap the...

Look for drag marks ON the fuse legs too. No drag marks = a loose connection creating high resistance pulling extra unwanted amperage.

Did you treat the gas with stabilizer over the winter? Guessing not. Need to pull the battery before it gets cold at your house. Take it inside in a conditioned space. Hook it to a Battery Tender over the winter. Reinstall in the spring. Will make the battery last a lot longer.

For what exactly? Ummm, Ummm, dirt, grass and grit sticks and collects to greases and oils. Again your mower but clean and tight is best. Tight is part of the recipe. How about clean and corrosion free? Clean to bare metal polished with Flitz Metal Polish? Use some star grounding...

Not recommended but it's your mower. Far as loose connections go, make sure each spade terminal makes a DRAG MARK on the male connector. Male is the flat one. Female connector with proper tension will make drag marks on the male connector. Just shoving the connectors together might not provide...

They are made to fail. Sealed bearings with a zerk fitting......

For the most part, pretty chill place. We don't need engine or mower hours and extra fluff. Like I've had thios for 27 years. Got it from Aunt Gertrude after she fell and broke her hip. Get to the point and learn the mower parts lingo. Again welcome one and all.

Actually it's MOWER numbers and ENGINE numbers. More the better to assist people on here to help you. Pictures and videos even better help........ Mower manufacturers do NOT make the engines they install on their mowers. I don't get some forums that are uptight and still have 1987 forum...

At 27 years old, way past time for a de-carbon, valve job, lap head and adjust valves. Get to work. (y):D

Is this mower running or not?

Also on Kawasaki's, don't use a red shop rag to wipe the stick off. There are protrusions that tug fabric fibers and will get into the oil. BLOT with a paper towel or other non residue leaving behind towel. Small potatoes here nothing huge. Keep the oil clean.

I call it parking the dipstick on top of the tube to check oil level. Do not spin it down into the tube as the others stated. Check both sides of the stick for a proper level check. Go with the highest measured oil level. All tires properly aired up. Mower on LEVEL ground. Check the oil...

Funny thing is it is better than a $2k mower made today.

Take it back for a full refund. Things like houses, cars, mowers and such that sit unused and empty degrade super quick. Being a 0-turn you know they ran it probably everyday from inside to outside then inside for how many years? Or was it parked in the weather all that time? Any mice chewing...

Hang on to the "old" Snapper's. Best machines ever made.

Doesn't sound right. They don't side discharge either. Good engine, terrible mower.

HIPA carbs are good. Still go through it making sure it will work as normal.

You guys are way over thinking this. Does everyone know what a garage sale hot plate is? Cheap garage sale pan? Simple Green? All about $20 bucks. What this provides is more heat and faster heat over any wonder ultra max supersonic cleaner pot of the week. Most ultra pots take the full time...

I'm telling you it is time to de-carbon. Download your engine manual and read about it. Neglect this and chunks of carbon WILL flake off, get between the piston and bore, scratching the heck out of the bore. THIS carbon is where all the bore gouging comes from. Then comes all the oil drinking...

Okay, make a youtube video showing us all how much fuel flow you have at the carb inlet. LOVE to see this. Also confirm it will drain the tank if you let it flow enough. Lastly show the flow that comes out of the carb inlet and needle that would normally dump into the carb bowl. Pull the bowl...

And I hope it was puffing black some out the muffler? Or at least look like she was running rich/er at the moment? Both carbs need to check fuel flow INTO the needle/seat FROM the fuel inlet tube. Remove the needle and let the fuel dump into the bowl area WITH the bowl off. Make sure the carbs...

He's out cutting his grass......

Think most pushers are to be used at a max of like 10 degrees or very close to???? Not like full sized tractors mowing the dam at the lake darn near tipping over. Those engines are full pressure lubed with real oil pumps and filters. THOSE engines can go over 10 degrees for example.

First off pusher mowers are not meant for serious grades or hills. Most are splash lubed and will run the engine oil slinger out of the oil. Summation lack of lubrication....... Next would be the main jet is uncovered not getting any fuel. This carb probably doesn't have a pilot circuit. Engine...

Chickanic on youtube said if you run E-10, better use Ethanol Shield. Open top gas can spouts are bad in that heat you have. Ages fuel in no time getting all that oxygen in there fuming away constantly.

You need air, fuel, spark (at the correct time) and compression. Find what you are lacking. On an engine this old, I bet never been de-carboned. Your engine manual states roughly every 5-7 years to de-carbon. Meaning I bet a valve or two are not sealing and she is all carboned up inside. Do...

Carb probably needs rebuilt. Should test for spark in low light or lights off conditions. Easier to see the spark color and intensity. Again test with an open gap spark tester. Best tool for checking spark. OR a simple 12 volt test light grounded to the engine block. You can move the pointed...

What did you use to seal the tank with specifically? Plastic tank or metal?

Are you using an open top gas can spout? Or a new EPA style that is sealed with o-rings and such? Far right can spout is a no-no especially with E-10. Sucker is wide open letting water, humidity and grass/debris in. Every fill up you dump contaminated gas into the mower tank. Leads to clogged...

Old school red Stabil works for me. Keep all tanks full of it over the winter. Always 1-2 pulls in the spring. Fuel lines don't dry rot and crack anymore. Saves me a lot of effort and money just in fuel lines every year. Project Farm on youtube and I think Taryl said the blue Stabil marine...

Paper cell phones coming next to a store near you.........

Too many factors on nailing down a perfect HOC. Unless you have a postage stamp sized yard and or can afford to run irrigation several times a week. I just got hit with a $489.00 water bill from the city. 1.Grass type 2.State you live in 3.Current rainfall and humidity 4.Soil type 5.Sun levels...

New engine time. Same as any car, truck, boat, mower, trimmer, blower, airplane or motorcycle. Run them out of oil, you get to buy a new engine. Wise to check the oil level prior to every mow. Keep the oil on the full mark, not over, nor under.

He gave it to you. 64694 ;)

This thread is from 2017. Just saying. Some folks get all excited when the unofficial thread time limit is crossed.

Guessing old gas from 2017.

Probably needed a wash anyway LOL.

Ventrac.

She is old. She is all carboned up. I preach on here to de-carbon much as I can. Says so in EVERY engine manual out there. She has valves that have never been checked for clearance. She probably has valves that leak from excess carbon, again. She probably has a scratched up bore from all the...

But LOOK at allllll that money they saved.......

Look in your gas can for the best starting fluid. Most engines are made to run on unleaded gas. 2 stroke mix covers every gasoline engine you could possibly own. Blowers, trimmers, edgers, mowers, boats, cars and trucks.

Not to mention that epoxy holding in all that heat for years doesn't help coil longevity.

Totally stunned. First post about float height. Nice catch topcutmowing1. Most folks blaze right over checking or setting the float height. (y)

When you run ANY internal combustion engine, she makes acids and other grunge that get past the rings. Summation your oil turns acidic. The oils TBN number will decrease over time. Just change it twice a year regardless of mileage. I do it seasonal like April and October.

What RPM or how fast do you run the engine? Do you let it idle around the yard? Low revs?

Never been de-carboned. All in the engine manual. I keep preaching about it. See in the bore where the piston is cleaner? Not as much bore scratching. Now look where all the carbon is at on top of the piston. Bore is tore up. There's your dinner......

As Star Tech recommended, https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1207216/Briggs-And-Stratton-276781.html

Red Flag ALERT!!! Stick with OEM cams unless you like fixing it two or three more times. Most mags you can't check with a meter. I guess you could if your engine manual states otherwise. Either sparks fat and blue with an open gap style tester or not. Every one of these parts WILL require...

My friend, prior to EVERY mow, check the oil level. Should be ON the FULL MARK. Not under nor over even a tick. Get an oil evac pump, very cheap these days. Suck out any that makes it over filled. These are air cooled and oil cooled engines. Do I need to elaborate here? Take care of her so she...