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I got the brakes working. Problem was the nut between the steering wheel and the seat. On this particular mower, what I was looking at in the "brakes engaged" state, was actually the brakes engaged. The spring isn't supposed to stretch any. I set the brake bar nut tension correctly and the...

Brake pedal all the way forward.

That bent rod is #56 in the diagram. If the brake lever didn't have full throw, I would tend to agree. However, I can move the brake pedal from stop to stop. It's able to activate the brake switch and even engage the parking brake. What the video is showing is the brake pedal's full throw.

The transmission only mounts to the frame in holes. No slots and no room for adjustment. Additionally, there aren't any drag marks where it would have slid forward. Looking at the system, it would have to move forward at least an inch to be this far out of adjustment.

It hasn't appeared loose, but I'll get the frame in the air and see if there's any adjustment in the bolts.

Heres a sketch

That's where my problem is. The brake rod isn't getting enough stroke to activate the brake caliper lever.

Until this post, I didn't know how long it was supposed to be. I'll go look. Edit: right at 25.5

It's been like this the entire time I've had it. Haven't had time to pull the assembly apart, but looking at the replacement part tells me that as long as the pedal returns home, there's no way for the welded slot to move. I may end up cutting the rod and re-bending the hook end. Or I might just...

I suppose my next option is to completely remove the brake/drive pedal assembly. I don't know what else to do.

illusion. transaxle is securely bolted in place.

I just don't see anything unusual. All the stops are interfacing with their counterparts where they should. The pedal is where it should be at rest. Parking brake lever works and holds the shaft. It's all one piece. No welds are broken. I guess maybe the rod has bent at the 90 somehow, but even...

What you see in the video is the system at rest, brake off. Then I press the brake. I don't see any broken welds on the shaft. Everything on that side of things is secure it moves with the brake pedal as it should. The rod is just not sitting where it's supposed to and I don't know why.

Here's a video. Only conclusion is that either the spring or the rod is too long.

Yes. It's connected correctly. Sitting in the slot like it should. It just seems like the rod is too long. When the parking brake is engaged, there's not enough throw to move the rod. But there is also nothing to adjust it.

Yeah, my fault. I mean that the spring is tight wound to itself. An extension spring thats not extended.

The spring seems tight no matter the position of the brake pedal. The problem is that the rod is too loose amd theres no apparent way of adjusting it.

I have a Troy Bilt Bronco 13yx78ks011 and the brake rod doesnt have enough throw to engage the brakes. It's almost like the brake rod that connects to the spring on the caliper is too long. I did notice that its hanging down below the frame. Theres nowhere to adjust it and nothing is bent. Its...

I swapped the breather and the gasket and it runs fine. Who knows.

Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere I could think to with zero change. Around the carb mount, around the breather, and around the breather tube. The only place I didn't spray was the head gasket. I'm going to replace the exhaust gasket (needs it) and the breather assembly/gasket. Maybe it's...

Took the boat out today and it ran, but I had to play throttle with the choke. I don't have an intake manifold. Carb bolts directly to the cylinder head. Could I have a bad head gasket? Fuel pump is newer, so I doubt that's the issue. I could have gotten a bad one, but it runs wide open with the...

Nope. Exhaust is on the side. Briggs managed to bolt a foot to the bottom of a vertical shaft 5hp motor. I can get in real shallow water. I don't even know where to begin to check for leaks. Surely can't do it while the motor is running.

Found a carb. It doesnt have an idle mix adjustment and doesnt have an idle speed screw. Seems to be from a later model. Installed it anyway and now it runs on choke only. As soon as you turn it off choke, it dies. Classic clogged carb. Except this one is spotless. No welch plugs to pull and...

I've done that a few times with other major mower parts, but carbs have usually been either superseded or in good supply. Never thought they'd have an old briggs outboard carb. I'll call around tomorrow. Thanks for that.

Normally, yes. I would have at this point. Part is discontinued and the one on ebay "didn't idle right." My next step is to dump it in an ultrasonic cleaner. If that doesn't work I'm going to look around for a carb body that's pretty close enough to the same and swap all the linkages over. Like...

On a 27HP, shouldn't it be keyed on/off? I'm not even sure any type of rocker switch will work.

I'm pretty sure that switch isn't rated for the amount of volts running through a coil. Voltage is likely jumping the internals of the switch.

People bubba-ing things, running straight gasoline in 2-strokes, and pisspoor engineering/design drove me nuts. Put me through college though.

Not fouled enough to not start when I spray fuel down the carb. :ROFLMAO:

Why would it start 4 days ago and not now though?

90psi after 4 pulls. not great. I can spray fuel in the carb and it runs.

4

I can get on board with the one in the bowl because that one hasn't been on since I've owned it and it ran fine. The one on the side is the one I'm worried about.

It's sitting in another bowl of carb cleaner. I put everything back correctly. Still not getting fuel through the carb. The only thing it could be is my welch plug install and I have no idea how to tell if I did that right. I put it in and smashed the center out toward the edges until it was...

Wouldn't say I'm a super tech, but I did work on the 2 stroke side at a corporate shop for a couple years that did all of the Home Depot lawn equipment repairs.

Yep. Fuel getting to it, just not through it.

I've got a Toro 22" electric start personal pace recycler, etc. all the things... and it has the same behavior. Initial startup after sitting a few days takes a min for the starter and several pulls. I always figured it was because there's no way to manually prime it.

Carb is completely clean and idle mixture screw is unbroken. Removed the welch plug in the side and made sure all passages were clear. Reinstalled the two new welch plugs and put it all back together. Zero fuel getting through the carb now. I've done something wrong. Maybe I didn't seal the...

I never thought to check this. I'll have a look tonight.

I *might* have figured that out when I got to tearing it all down.:LOL: Glad I went back and double checked the valves.

Updating the thread... Readjusted the valves because one of my adjustments came loose. Exhaust valve was 0.008" instead of 0.003"-0.005". Also replaced the starter with a new Kohler brand higher torque. Found rubber bits in the bottom of the tank that was causing the fuel issue. Works as good...

Never noticed a welch plug in the bottom. Either it's never been there (unlikely) or it was removed by a previous owner. It's ran fine for me many seasons without it, but I guess I'll be putting one of those in this week. Might as well pull the other one and replace it too. It's sitting in a...

That's a good point. For as much as I do this, I should probably invest in an ultrasonic cleaner.

Checked that also and it's good. All gaskets are in the same order and orientation that they have always been.

I thought so too, but I'm able to spray carb cleaner through every hole and get fluid out of the other end. Do you think that there could be some buildup behind some of the plugs that are one way only?

There's only the idle mixture screw and throttle valve screw.

Yep. Clean as can be.

I've got a Briggs 5HP outboard that I can't get the idle mix adjustment screw to the right position. Looking for some tips to help get it set right. I pulled the whole thing apart and cleaned it well. Put the idle mix screw back in and turned it the same six turns it took to bottom it out when I...

For anyone interested, don't try to use the Gunk brand carb cleaner to start engines. It is not a good substitute for fuel mixture. Sprayed a fuel mix in the carb and it fired right up.

110 PSI on the compression test. I am now completely stumped.