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If it were mine, I'd be comfortable with 32:1 but that's as thin as I would go personally. And you may never really know. It may not immediately fail but it could shorten its life.

I'm still curious as to how many hours were on the engine. I've seen homeowners who ran their equipment roughly an hour a week for 30 to 35 weeks a year. At 35 hours a year, times 23 years, that's only 805 hours. A well taken care of Kohler Command should run 3 to 4 times that many hours. Oil...

This doesn't really help your situation but just FYI, that engine was built on the 270th day of a year that ended in 6, 76,86,96,2006. Tecumseh lets you guess which decade. It would probably be a little unusual for a chipper/shredder, but this wouldn't happen to have electric start would it? If...

Not just Kohler uses welch plugs. And years don't really mean much. How many hours did the engine run?

Do you have the original regulator? If it's OEM Kohler there is a part number on it.

Yeah that's right. I forgot that the oil pump was driven by the balance shaft. For some reason I was thinking the pump was driven by the camshaft. Does anything else inside the engine look worn? A couple of other things come to mind as well. With the rod cap being soft aluminum, I would think...

I haven't been inside a CV single in a long time, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong here, but wouldn't the relationship between the balance shaft gear and the crankshaft gear keep the balance shaft from being able to move enough to contact the rod cap even if the balance shaft bearing...

What is the spec number on this engine?

Sadly no. It would require a complete crankshaft. It might wear in and quiet down. Or it might cause some teeth to break.

There does appear to be wear on the crank gear and virtually none on the cam gear.

Do you think the camshaft was replaced? If the camshaft was replaced, and not the crankshaft, that can cause noise almost like a rod knock due to the unmatched wear on the cam and crank gears.

For the most part the engine sounds like it's running good. If you have an engine stethoscope that would be great. If not, this sometimes works. Take a screwdriver and put the tip against the block and put your ear against the hand you're holding the screwdriver with. See if you can tell that...

You don't have zero and you don't have infinity so I wouldn't be concerned with 0.40. I'd also check continuity from each stator lead to ground just to be sure. With all the magnets being stuck to the stator they obviously didn't come off while it was running or you would have had the same...

I think I heard something like metal on metal in the first video as you were turning but have no idea what it could be. In the second video, I didn't hear anything that sounded like metal on metal, but I did hear what sounded like a bit of a muffled pop out of the muffler.

I don't think anything in this connector would be causing the issue but to be sure, have you double checked that you got the correct pin orientation? The other thing I would check, and maybe you already have, is continuity from the ground at the fuel pump plug to the corresponding pin in the...

I based my response off of this info. 38 total volts AC tells me the stator and flywheel are fine. Now, 20 volts AC, 17 + 3 is of course a different story and says to me, bad stator or flywheel magnets. Regardless, it looks like the actual charging issue is taken care of and now it's a noise issue.

A video may help with what the knock might be but from what you posted previously I think you replaced parts that didn’t need replacing.

Odd that both rods would break with no noise whatsoever, but it sounds like that is exactly what happened. Pistons not moving but valves are working pretty much says two failed rods. Worst case you need a short block. Best case is a less than proper fix (IMHO) of two rods and maybe cleaning up...

In Kohler's defense, your own words say it's doubtful Kohler is at fault for this engine failure. "The Cub has had a rough life at the hands of its first owner. Be it abuse, ignorance, stupidity, or just laziness, and possibly a combination of all of the previous reasons, it has suffered from...

I don't believe the crank from the 65093F will work in your engine. Your engine shows to have solid state ignition and the 65093 shows having a point type ignition under the flywheel. That difference will more than likely cause the flywheel side of the crank to be different in diameter, taper or...

You might see if anyone in the Cub Cadet section has any info on a better muffler. Kohler supplies that engine to Cub with no muffler and then Cub adds their own muffler when the equipment is assembled.

You're probably going to need the part number for the coil you're needing because if my memory serves me correctly, there were 3 different possibilities for coils on a K91. This is a long shot because I believe this guy has passed away, but you might give it a shot. Ed Wright 262-877-9175. If no...

Are you talking about loud like it needs a better muffler or loud as in internal engine noise?

That’s what im trying to understand. I don’t know of a solenoid that spins and rises. Do you mean the starter?

Can I ask what solenoid you are referring to?

That’s how we learn. Something to remember on these. Often times if you try loosening the adjuster nut before loosening the set screw you’ll split the adjuster nut right in half. I don’t know how many of those nuts I had to replace on my training engines because guys liked to jump ahead as we...

I don't know if they still offer it, but as late as 2022 Kohler had a conversion kit to replace that sensor that was only available by contacting the factory. You might give them a try. Often times they will send a kit at no charge when something like that has been discontinued. It's worth a...

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/32_690_01_EN.pdf

Well, you have spark, compression and fuel. Not much left. Ignition timing maybe. Valve timing maybe. Rivets mentioned a possible sheared flywheel key. Not very common in this application but definitely not impossible. It would be worth a look. How did you check spark?

Hope you don't mind me clarifying. This is a twin cylinder Courage not a single cylinder.

I know many on here say stay away from the cheap Amazon carbs but when I needed a carb for the Honda engine on my generator, I figured for $26 I really didn't have much to lose, and I really wanted to satisfy my own curiosity. I was pleasantly surprised when I installed the carb and the engine...

There should be a set screw in the middle with a Torx head.

It shouldn’t matter how those two wires are hooked up. Unplug the regulator and put in a new fuse. See if it still blows with the regulator unplugged. If the fuse still blows, you probably have a shorted stator.

Something else to try. Unplug the electrical connector to the coil on the side that isn't firing. Then turn the key to the on position. Turn the key off and check for codes. If you get a code, that would lead me to believe the wiring between the ECU and coil is fine and the ECU is fine. If no...

Well, I haven't been much help to this point. Again, you might check the eyelet on the ECU ground wire. Kohler had an issue with corrosion, not where the eyelet contacted the engine but where the wire made contact inside the eyelet. You might just look at it and see if there are any signs of...

I forgot to ask. Are there any trouble codes?

Is pin 22 making good contact into the ECU? If it's running on one cylinder, I'd rule out the ECU being the issue at least electrically. Although that doesn't mean it couldn't have a bad pin. When you got the light to light on the + and the - was it unplugged from the coil? You also might...

What coil trigger wire are you referring to? One lead to the ignition coil should be battery voltage and the other (pin 22) is the ECU controlled ground.

Check the plug wire. Those Bosch systems were bad about plug wires. Take it off the coil and ohm it from the boot to the end that attaches to the coil. I believe it should ohm out around 5000 ohms.

This is a common error. You don't measure each AC wire individually. You measure across them, but the total VAC should be the same. Black lead on one stator wire and red lead on the other. You should have a minimum of 28 VAC across the two. I'm guessing if you measure across the leads, you'll...

The best way to troubleshoot anything is to make sure you understand how the system is designed to work before you start.

It's a bogus website. About 6 months ago that same website was selling a 750ml of Blantons for $49. Yeah. Right.

I spoke with my EFI person and in describing your issue he's 99% sure you have a bad O2 sensor. There is a test you could do but it involves probing through the insulation on the black and purple O2 sensor wires. It really won't hurt anything if you're replacing the O2 sensor but if not, you'd...

If it takes 30 minutes for the fuse to blow, it would be doubtful it would be the stator in my opinion. When a stator shorts it typically blows a fuse as soon as the key is turned to the on position. Maybe after the stator warms and there is some expansion, the stator wire could theoretically...

Was it acting up? Unfortunately, I didn't catch anything that sounded all that unusual. Does it still smell like it's running rich? And sorry if I missed your answer to this but have you ever seen any black smoke from the exhaust? I also thought of another test involving the O2 sensor but it's...

It's good to do the TPS learn but not the end of the world if you don't. Any chance you could post a short video of it when it's misfiring?

What was the oil level after it seized? And how are you cleaning your filters? I was just curious about your actual method of cleaning the air filter.

What was the oil level after it seized? And how are you cleaning your filters?

For the average do-it-yourselfer, no question, EFI engines are harder to troubleshoot sometimes. The issues I would often run into trying to help techs troubleshoot EFI engines is, they seem to forget it's an engine. An engine comes in their shop lacking power and they immediately want to blame...

It if replaces the Kohler 12 707 01-S then it's what you need. Maybe there is more than one listing for that Stens part number but the one I found was way too expensive. The Amazon link ILENGINE provided had that actual Kohler part for $163.92. The Stens one I found was over $270.00. You can buy...