Troy-Bilt Bronco will not start

L

Lloydalan

Forum Newbie
I have a Troy-Bilt Bronco model 13wx78s011. When I tried to start it the engine did not turn over. When I put my charger on the battery the ammeter read 4 amps. I let the battery charge overnight.
When I tried to start it the next day it started up fine. But when I tried starting it later it would not start. The battery was fully charged. I checked the 20 amp fuse and it was okay. So I need help troubleshooting the problem. Thanks...
 
How old is the battery? When you started it, how long did you run the motor? Most likely, the battery is dying, but it could be some circuit isn't shutting down, and is draining it, or charging system. Measure voltage at battery. Charge the battery, then measure voltage again, should be higher. Start engine, measure again. Voltage running should be higher. If not, may be charging system. If the battery seems to be charging, but loses power sitting, either the battery's dying or something is staying on.
 
Mark, as I said in my message the engine does not start. I checked the voltage, at the battery terminals and it was the correct voltage. When it did start, initially, I ran it for several minutes. I have a feeling that the problem may be from the "start" pedal circuit.
 
What you said was that it did not turn over. You charged overnight and it started. It would not start later. A few minutes is not enough to recover from starting. If it tries to turn, but does not, it is often insufficient power to the starter. If nothing happens, or just a click when you turn the key, it's often a circuit problem. If it turns over, but does not run, fuel/spark/timing.

When you say it won't start, that's not enough info.
 
Lloydalan said:
The battery was fully charged. I checked the 20 amp fuse and it was okay. So I need help troubleshooting the problem
Click to expand...
Dead cell or three in the battery. LOAD test it at an auto parts store. Or find someone with a real carbon pile tester for a proper battery test.

Could be dirty corroded loose grounds too. Start cleaning and polishing all terminals with Flitz Metal Polish. Make 'em shine like new.
 
batteries often show reasonable voltage but if a cell is weak, it will drop way down under load. Of course there can be a dirty connection or ground somewhere too. The only way to confirm it is not the battery is to put a voltage meter on it and leave it there while cranking. Then if it falls to like 12V it is OK but if it falls to much less than 11.5V it is weak or bad. If it holds 12.6 - 12.8V (that is not a typo) under no load, then put the meter between the starter and frame ground. If it falls more when cranking then it is a bad connection somewhere in between. Immediately after a 12V wet cell battery is charged it should red 13.2V to 13.4V. If it drops below 12.6V - 12.8V overnight it is bad. If the battery is more than 4 years old, or has been discharged for very long just replace it. They sulfate when in that state and it is nearly impossible to bring back. If someone wants to get rich, and they have no scruples, just sell a product that is guaranteed to bring a sulfated battery. The world will say they saw a product that will save them the cost of a battery.
 
Mark H_NO said:
What you said was that it did not turn over. You charged overnight and it started. It would not start later. A few minutes is not enough to recover from starting. If it tries to turn, but does not, it is often insufficient power to the starter. If nothing happens, or just a click when you turn the key, it's often a circuit problem. If it turns over, but does not run, fuel/spark/timing.

When you say it won't start, that's not enough info.
Click to expand...
 
It doesn't turn over. This is why I'm thinking that some of the other things like an intermittent "start" switch could be causing the problem I'll so some ohmeter checking on the switch. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
sgkent said:
batteries often show reasonable voltage but if a cell is weak, it will drop way down under load. Of course there can be a dirty connection or ground somewhere too. The only way to confirm it is not the battery is to put a voltage meter on it and leave it there while cranking. Then if it falls to like 12V it is OK but if it falls to much less than 11.5V it is weak or bad. If it holds 12.6 - 12.8V (that is not a typo) under no load, then put the meter between the starter and frame ground. If it falls more when cranking then it is a bad connection somewhere in between. Immediately after a 12V wet cell battery is charged it should red 13.2V to 13.4V. If it drops below 12.6V - 12.8V overnight it is bad. If the battery is more than 4 years old, or has been discharged for very long just replace it. They sulfate when in that state and it is nearly impossible to bring back. If someone wants to get rich, and they have no scruples, just sell a product that is guaranteed to bring a sulfated battery. The world will say they saw a product that will save them the cost of a battery.
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for your reply. I"m measuring 12.9V on the battery terminals. No change in voltage when I hit the ""start" position on the start switch. It's really strange because after an overnight charge it stated fine. I let it run for several minutes. When I came back later it wouldn't turn over. I'm thinking an intermittent start switch. There are several other things that normally inhibit a start. Like the deck run lever in the run position That and the seat switch. The seat switch looks good so maybe i should dig into where the deck inhibit switch is located. Just a thought.
 
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