Won't run under load

slomo said:
One could use an old inductive timing light to "see" spark down the plug wire.

Doesn't mean there is enough spark to run. Need an open gap tester or a simple 12 volt DC test light. Need minimum 0.25" spark jumping gap to run.
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Thanks all for the input. I don't have a way to test the spark except with the inline one I have
 
now you know the problem is that the left side is weak. One of three is missing on that cylinder - air/fuel, spark, or compression.
 
Use a spark plug. Remove the plug, connect it, and ground it, and crank the engine. Do it in the shade, so you can see the spark. It's not as good as an adjustable gap tester, but it's better than the light bulb.
 
If the added spring was attempting to correct the poor idle, I would remove it. Having only one cylinder firing would make the idle a bit less than strong.
 
Quick easy way to check cylinder performance, while running take a pair of plastic pliers, pull the plug on one side and see if there is any difference. Then reconnect, move to the other side and repeat. I have found dead cylinders quickly. If there is a dead cylinder, the engine will die when the spark plug on the good cylinder is disconnected. Then swap plugs first, easiest way to check for bad plug, repeat steps. If the problem remains, bay cylinder, if it swaps, bad plug.
 
Laabk2 said:
Quick easy way to check cylinder performance, while running take a pair of plastic pliers, pull the plug on one side and see if there is any difference. Then reconnect, move to the other side and repeat. I have found dead cylinders quickly. If there is a dead cylinder, the engine will die when the spark plug on the good cylinder is disconnected. Then swap plugs first, easiest way to check for bad plug, repeat steps. If the problem remains, bay cylinder, if it swaps, bad plug.
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Thank you will see what I can find out. Thanks everyone for the information
 
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